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Everything posted by to4garret

  1. These things rock, once you've been in a proper electric car like a M3 its hard to imagine going back to a combustion car other than for nostalgia. I've had my P3D+ since September and its been unreal. So super jealous you have one in NZ as the roads are so much better, but it will be interesting to see how your range changes during the winter Did you see the guy who figured out the how to disable the nanny controls and drift the RWD model?
  2. Been in Perth for the last 14 years and had my Cyborg for about the same amount of time. There is quite a good little motorsports scene over here with lots of events at the local raceways, driver ed days, cars & coffees etc. Just sucks that almost every road is straight as an arrow and anything twisty is hours away from the city, ok if you kill deathy highway runs i guess.
  3. Stock take time! Over the years if i spied some parts for sale and it was something worthwhile i would just add it to the collection and i've amassed quite a collection of "shit". One of the collected items was a full driveline from a 1990 Series II Cyborg that came up for sale which had front & rear mechanical LSDs and was 3.545 ratio! this means I had an upgrade path through VR4, GSR & EVO 1-3 components, plus spare drive shafts and axles which just are not available in Australia. Anyway, i went part picking in the garage and the only time i've been known to use oven cle
  4. Well had a fun night racing, drove there and back which is a bonus. Took quite a bit to get used to driving with the NTLS & LC enabled - the gearbox really hates life now and really isnt cut out for fast shifting. Set a new PB of 12.700 @ 187kph, 60ft 2.007 but spent 1.886 seconds of that on the clutch trying to get it into gear (or grinding it in) clutch switch is the lower green line (DI 6 - GP Input), when high - clutch in, low - clutch out.
  5. Took this out for a good strop today to make sure i could actually drive it after the tweaks to the tune. It kept hitting boost cut in 1st & 2nd once it was making 21psi even though the actual cut was set at 26psi. I hunted the ECU for any correction that could account for that (ECT/IAT etc) but everything was zero'd. Only thing i can think of thats causing the cut is the boost ramp rate and the ECU being a bit conservative with cutting the fun early thinking it will prevent an overshoot, but there is nothing i can see to change that behavior. I think i will just change the boost limit
  6. I've been driving this occasionally and I am definitely starting to feel old. Its loud, stinky, hard to shift, hot, light switch power delivery and basically everything a modern car isnt. I still love it though and i do need to use it more. I have been a little busy with it, there is an up coming Mitsubishi vs Subaru drag day at the Motorplex on the 13th March so i thought i might as well see if I can make an appearance. I had a list of things to improve after my last visit to the 1/4m, like adding launch control, flat shifting and more boost. Finally spent a few hours in the dyno bo
  7. So, this thing is getting more play time recently than it's had in the last 10 years, and by that I mean it's been driven a few times each month A few minutes from home on one of the recent drives the check engine light flashed up, which surprised me as I forgot I actually wired it up when I swapped ECUs. The error reported by PCLink was AN Volt 5 Short to Ground and AN Volt 5 is the TPS channel. A little look later showed that the TPS mount on the TB has cracked and fallen off... too much thong! This ticked me off a little as I spent extra on a local Aussie product thinking the
  8. It's a good days racing when you can drive to the strip and back home again all in one piece! No major issues at the motorplex today, I only did two runs with the first being a 12.9 @ 112mph and the second was a 14.2 @ 101mph - due to 3 crunched gears in a row but both with 2.1s 60'. It was the first time i've taken this car to the strip so i did learn a lot, especially about how to better setup the car. Launch Control needs enabling, will make it a lot easier than bouncing the revs around. "No Lift to Shift" would help a lot with the turbo lagg between gear changes.
  9. (going back in time a bit) 7 months since the last update and a few things have happened to this nugget. 1. the clutch was "dragging" - it would shift okay'ish below 3krpm but anything above and it was almost impossible to change gears. Give the throttle a blip to 5krpm when stationary with the clutch in and 1st gear selected and the car would lurch forward. I spent months changing the whole clutch hydraulic system, new master, slave, braided lines adjusted and bleed dozens of times. but it just wouldnt fully disengage. Ended up pulling the gearbox and found the brand new flywheel w
  10. A long wait for an answer mjrstar - sorry i missed the updates from this thread. I dont think its pad choice as i've been through 3x sets of calipers and its always been way to firm. The original singles, VR4 duals and now the Willwood Six pistons. All have a very, very firm pedal. The booster holds vacuum and seems to work, but its just not providing enough assistance over all.
  11. Hahaha there is a bit of gingerbeering in that rig Shane! Good to see you working on another project back home, i miss how much better turbo cars go in the cooler climate.
  12. Thanks guys, Its been a love/hate relationship that is for sure, but its good driving it again. Still some more todo though, that friggin sump is still leaking the old gearbox that is in there is really, really hard to shift I'm probably going to ignore the leaking sump and just try some different oil in the gearbox. then think hard about the next stage (if any). Shane, I had previously taken it on an Evo cruise, was many lols and a very fun night. I think i will attend the next powercruise/supercruise if i can keep it together long enough. Kws
  13. Since the car has been on the road again, I’ve put on a set of Bridgestone Potenza RE003’s and printed some custom hub-centric rings. For the hub-centric rings I used ABS plastic which should be okay, its transition temperature is around 105c and it would probably still be okay around 140c. Really its only used to locate the wheels while doing them up and don’t really serve a purposed after that. This is where I am today, almost the middle of 2017, 12 years after buying the car. Where to from here?
  14. Up until this point, I hadnt had anyone else work on the car except myself, but I was just getting to busy with life to spend time working on the car, I also had a bit more cash flow to do things properly compared to 10 years earlier which lead me to take to the car to a fabricators to help get the car to the next iteration. We started by removing all the crap from the boot, the W2A resoviour, sub, surgetank and fuel pump and in the bin. What is left is just an nice, lite, empty boot space. The lunch box on above the battery is the fuse & relay box for he fuel pumps. W
  15. Over the new month I get the tune better & better but I started to notice that not all was good. All that extra weight in the boot had changed the car, the way it handled and they way it drove was very different and not for the better. I guess there would be about 40kg in the boot and it was all high above and behind the rear diff, this made car feel like it had a few bags of cement in the boot all the time, but worse, much worse. What was once a nible agile car had been ruined, what had I done! Early 2011 and now “life” really started to accelerate for me and over the next
  16. This car had a few partial resprays in Japan, its definity good from afar but far from good. At some point the boot lid had been resprayed and the original decals where missing. I thought it would be quite hard to get a set but thankfully a knowledgeable person in a Mitsubishi dealership was able to track down both the Mickey Mouse Club and Cyborg decal ex Japan. Originally, there would have been MIRAGE in the centre of the tail garnesh, but there were none available when I enquired. I should look at getting a reproduction made as it would just be a normal vinyl sticker.
  17. Mounting the W2A radiator was easy, right where the old A2A unit was. Except there was quite a bit extra room now. The reservoir on the other hand was intended to go in the boot of the car which meant that lovely boot I had built would need to be hacked apart. It also means I needed a way to get the water from the boot to the engine bay and back again. I didn’t have access to a bender at the time and looking back I should’ve used some aluminin bundy, but instead I decided to use hosing to run from the rear to the front and this is probably a good example of the way it “sh
  18. Following that line of thinking I spotted a second hand PWR barrel cooler setup for sale that was used on a very well sorted VR4, perfect! When it first arrived, I set it all up for a test run. The reservoir was built quite large and had a [dry] ice pocket inside for extra cools, but that also made it large and heavy. The reservoir was originally mounted in the boot of the VR4 it came from so that’s the route I intended to take. I added some ball valves so the system could be drained and to allow bypassing the radiator for pure Icey cooled water, most likely a bit overboard.
  19. Here is a picture with the rears adjusted as low as they go without touching the spring perch height. I levelled the ride height out and this is what I have been running since. There is a lot of room for camber adjustment in the front as well, this is with the camber set in the max position. I briefly entertained the idea of running some chromies on the car. Only Super Cheap’s finest would do. Now it was time to start wiring the Link Plus G3 and associated bits together. I distinctly remember this time in the build as I was literally dreaming rainbow
  20. In a semi-serious continuing effort to stop the overheating when stationary on hot days I thought about adding some bonnet vents and in my opinion, the only ones that would be correct for the car are VR4 RS vents. I did consider some Evo 3 bonnet vents but I just didn’t think it would work right as they are much larger. I was pretty nervous doing those first few cuts into the bonnet, but in the end, it came up okay, not perfect but good enough. I did plenty of measuring to find the right spot for the vents in the bonnet, I’m not using the best position for heat extraction, but
  21. I replaced the twin plate with a Fidanza Aluminium flywheel, sintered puck friction plate and a something/something pressure plate – yes, I obviously had not learned anything from the twin plate fiasco. I got to thinking about why Mitsubishi rotated the engine and gearbox 180deg in the Evo 4+, common reasoning is that it removes a shaft in the gearbox. Earlier models need 3 shafts, Input, Intermediate and Output whereas the Evo 4+ have only an Input and Intermediate. Or perhaps it’s so if the flywheel explodes it takes the passengers nads out and not the drivers. H
  22. VR4 Brake conversion all completed, I ran a seal kit through the front and rear calipers while at it. With the new rotors and calipers, combined with a re-sleaved 1” VR4 brake master cylinder and the car finally stops reasonably well. It still feels like it needs a larger booster ratio as you still really need to step on the brakes to start hauling up – buts its much improved over standard. A month or so after doing the brakes I noticed a couple of drips of gearbox oil on the driveway. It seemed the 5th gear retaining nut had back out and cracked the end of the gearbox ho
  23. A few months later all was complete and with the locked center diff it made the car a bit of a fun to drive, the inside rear wheel would skip if turning at low speed or if trying to reverse and turn, the inside front wheel would drag. It did cause no end of a confusing looks at petrol stations from the local bogan’s. I entered Motovation 21 at Perth Motorplex with Old School Toys and apart from the blazing heat it was an amazing experience. Unfortunately, I couldn’t enter any events as the Fuel Pressure Gauge failed, leaking fuel everywhere and the car would overheat if it wasn’t g
  24. Speaking of induction, you may have noticed no exhaust manifold/turbo or intake in the previous images. Well, I happened to acquire a TD05 16G-6 from a Hyper RVR, this turned out to be a bit of a gem as when we looked closely at it, it was the same physical size as a normal Big 16G but had a revised compressor wheel, which I assumed to mean good things. One drawback was that I would need to clock the turbo compressor cover to fit and that would mean I couldn’t use the stock internal wastegate and actuator. Damn. So, to solve that problem I purchased a TRR Stainless manifold with a 3
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