kpr Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 Further up the runner more cooling. closer to valve will run nicer. but wont be much in it in your case. I'd run the ones in the manifold. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
187inc Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 Hey guys, this is very much below the scope of this thread, but thought it would be a good place to ask.. I'm thinking about getting the injectors in my daily cleaned & tested, there's nothing wrong with the way it runs but it's getting on now and has likely never been done. Is there anything else I should look at doing at the same time? (Done plugs leads etc) Just want to keep the old girl happy. '91 Laser Tx3, 1.8 dohc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 fuel filter. fuel pump if its still the 30year old factory one, may save you a walk home one day. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 Is it cost effective testing old standard injectors or just replace with new? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
187inc Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 9 minutes ago, NickJ said: Is it cost effective testing old standard injectors or just replace with new? Seen a couple of prices around 150 for clean/test/orings etc, new seem to be nearly 100 each.. will have another search around but not all too familiar with what I'm looking for and there's a myriad of options out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 What style are they? If they have the metal body with plastic ends you really don't want to screw with them at all or they will eventually start leaking out of the housing. If they are fully plastic then you should be good to do whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted December 8, 2022 Share Posted December 8, 2022 Hey guys need some guidance, currently using the factory RVR ecu, may go to my teensy 3.5 8x8 shortly if I can get the map, wideband and IAT sensor in (also need to solder on bluetooth and the chip to run the iacv) or if I work out how to get tunerstudio to work with the maf thats currently in the car Not sure if you read my build thread but worked out that the RVR TPS runs the opposite way (counterclockwise instead of clockwise?) to the Evo/gsr one so it was reading to the ecu as 5v closed and 0v open (not exact figures) worked out the RVR wiring to the tps is opposite to allow for this so have swapped the evo wiring around as the RVR ecu reads the TPS the same way as other Mitsubishi as lower is closed and higher is open etc Need to buy a new connector to finish it off but its now reading 0.45v closed, think it got upto 4.xxx when full open need to double check. I need to check what value it should read closed. Started up no issues, Note revs on the dash don't match the revs on my digital timing light (note its wasted spark so reads double but even when I divide its still not lining up) got up-to operating temp, grounded out the OBD1 port using my evoscan cable (can't connect the ecu to the laptop) Bliss screw is fully wound in so can't get the idle any lower Throttle stop screw is now fully wound out and the throttle cable is slack Meant to idle at 750rpm+/-100rpm but I feel like its closer to 1k, and its more like 1000-1250 on the timing light Sounds really lumpy (don't think it has aftermarket cams but haven't checked) pretty sure I have a couple of exhaust leaks I need to track down and fix as that may be causing the sound Don't think i have an air leak as the vac/boost gauge doesn't move much but it could also be the iacv adjusting to compensate right? Have previously done a pressure test and couldn't find anything but perhaps I need to do it again Can't read the iacv settings due to the ecu not talking to the laptop with the current setup, tempted to unplug the iacv and see if that makes a difference. Really trying to avoid buying the other evoscan tool and swapping the dash loom over to the OBD1/2 hybrid one (which I suspect the RVR ecu needs to be read Timing is at 10degrees when I lock the timing out, and is about 20 when its unlocked, 20degress unlocked would put it at the 1250rpm part of the ignition map or 1000rpm if its seeing more air Only other thing I can think of is it has an aftermarket fuel pump however I have gone back to factory wiring as it melted the relay I had added to give it the full voltage. (think it was a cheap relay) I am not 100% sure if the RVR ecu I am using is for 450cc or 510cc injectors. I haven't checked fuel pressure so perhaps the FPR is providing more pressure to the injectors then it should? I have 450cc injectors currently installed, would smaller injectors be causing it to idle higher? I wouldn't have thought so, don't have a wide band on it currently but that's another thing I may put on to check, don't have smoke out the exhaust so its not running stupid rich Also could be the temp sensor is reading incorrectly? I am abit rusty on all of this hence asking for peoples thoughts Current next step thoughts are Check TPS readings are now in range (volt meter) Check Idle switch is reading correctly Check temp sensor Check for air/vac/boost leaks Check fuel pump voltage Check fuel pressure Add wideband to check afr matches factory map Buy new IACV? Buy 510cc injectors? Thanks in advance for help Edit, Ok TPS Should read between 0.45-0.55v closed so thats perfect I also adjusted the throttle cable so it opens the whole way. IACV The value for this motor varies from 0-120 steps and should live at 30 when the vehicle is warm and idling with no load (fans, etc). This value can only be achieved by altering the BISS on the throttle body. Achieving the value of 30 gives the stepper motor in the IACV the required range to control the idle. The learn idle adjust should then hover around 140 if all the conditions are correct. However this feature of the ECU only achieves to obtain the idle value programmed into the ecu and nothing more – it does this by altering the position of the ISC Does anyone know of some EV1 connector compatible top feed 510cc injectors that are newer then the old EVO 1-4, ideally looking for something with better spray pattern etc? Edit 2: Checked and confirmed RVR IACV wiring is the same as the evo 1-3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 9, 2022 Share Posted December 9, 2022 If you can get your hands on a spare iacv, and plug this in to the loom but don't connect it up to the throttle body. This will mean no codes are being thrown, but also eliminates the iacv from the equation. If you are still dealing with a high idle then air is getting in somewhere. Could be worn throttle body, damaged point on idle adjustment screw, bad pcv piping etc If the rpm drops then something is bumping up the target rpm, such as load sense for Aircon or alternator, or timing is too far advanced for whatever reason, or it's not entering idle mode to energise the iacv. it only takes a tiny leak to bump up an engine a few hundred rpm when there is no engine load. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted December 10, 2022 Share Posted December 10, 2022 11 hours ago, mjrstar said: If you can get your hands on a spare iacv, and plug this in to the loom but don't connect it up to the throttle body. This will mean no codes are being thrown, but also eliminates the iacv from the equation. If you are still dealing with a high idle then air is getting in somewhere. Could be worn throttle body, damaged point on idle adjustment screw, bad pcv piping etc If the rpm drops then something is bumping up the target rpm, such as load sense for Aircon or alternator, or timing is too far advanced for whatever reason, or it's not entering idle mode to energise the iacv. it only takes a tiny leak to bump up an engine a few hundred rpm when there is no engine load. Think that's a good idea, seems there is heaps of new aftermarket ICAVs around for around the $30aud so have ordered one and will see how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted May 22, 2023 Author Share Posted May 22, 2023 Just planning ahead for the fuel injection o2 sensor stuff on my flat six. This time I'm going to use a 14 point 7 controller. Probably a sparten 2. Looks good and from all accounts it shits on innovate products (which I had a fair few issues with on my V6) I'm undecided as to whether I fit just one sensor (and associated controller) to one bank. Did this with the V6 and it seemed fine. I figure if I make sure my injectors are all matched and my cylinders heads/valves I know are in good condition then there really shouldn't be a difference between the banks on a system that's fed air equally by a single central mounted plenum. Or stump up double the costs and run two sensors... the megasquirt 3 will handle two (or more if using canbus) but I don't think I'll gain much, if any, extra efficiency. Just info. Plus I'd have to run two 52mm gauges if I want that info on the dash. Speaking of gauges.. I'm wondering if any wideband afr gauge will work with spartan. I'll ask them but does anyone here know. I presume those gauges just take a 0-5 volt signal? Also, whilst looking on Ali I found this. It's a 'ration' gauge... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 Can you run a bank by bank mix adjustment to get value out of the duel system (like factory lambdas) or is it just helpful for diagnosis? If yes, then it'll give you that extra flex and this isnt a project done by halves..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 If you have confidence in the system, one bank is fine and swap to the other just to confirm. Or temp sensors on both sides that will give relative conditions for cheap on initial start if it is that important you need both banks for tuning, then really all cylinders should be monitored. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted May 23, 2023 Author Share Posted May 23, 2023 @NickJ Two sensors and a switch that can swap the controller between them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 Or you could just mount it further down stream if all 6 converge to a single pipe I guess. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted May 23, 2023 Author Share Posted May 23, 2023 Sadly that won't be the case. The two outlets will go into a porsche style width ways mounted silencer assembly. Something sort of like this.. I think there will be too much chance of residual exhaust gases within the casing mucking up the reading. My plan is to have the sensor positioned somewhere on one of the secondaries just before it goes into silencer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 6 hours ago, yoeddynz said: @NickJ Two sensors and a switch that can swap the controller between them Don't you mean complex pipework and valves to divert gas flow to a single sensor? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 It's not good for the sensors to leave them in unpowered for long time. So you'd probably want a bung on one side them swap them over. However after initial checks to make sure banks are balanced, probably just sweet on one side and left there. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted May 23, 2023 Author Share Posted May 23, 2023 Good point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted July 1, 2023 Author Share Posted July 1, 2023 @h4nd ... cheers. I was after 3 bosch BIP373 ignitor drivers but its seems they've been out of production for a while. So the new alternative is this... https://www.diyautotune.com/product/coil-driver-kit/ But postage is excessive. So I looked up OnSemi EcoSPARK IGBT and found them all over the place but there's various different models and my brain started to smoke when I tried to work out what to get. Like this... https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/igbts/2410728?cm_mmc=NZ-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_NZ_EN_Fallback_Whoop-_-(NZ:Whoop!)+All+Products-_-2410728&matchtype=&pla-293946777986&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnf-kBhCnARIsAFlg492mG4wDqPoHH3pRLzCB_sjehTvm24w4QkREUBR61FSGuxw4wSha4ooaAhzoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted July 2, 2023 Share Posted July 2, 2023 Did I drop some off to you when we electro-nerded in the sun ages ago? I'll recheck my stocks anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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