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DIY Fuel injection thread.


yoeddynz

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I've only ever killed one sensor, a 4.2, which was coupled to a Inovate mtxl.  I think I know why though- thermal shock from having the ignition on for a while, the sensor heating up and then starting the engine is what I suspect killed it.

Anyway- not going to touch their products again. I think with a newer controller from Aem or 14/7 I wont have these issues. I don't think I need to stump up the extra pingas for a adv sensor though. Not on a 100 bhp NA engine that's not really going to see silly revs/will be more of a road cruiser.

Anyway - 14 point 7. Fuck me he seems a bit useless at communication. Doesn't fill me with confidence.  I'm glad to hear he stands by his products because it does seem from other forum posts a fair few of them have issues. But then you'll always hear about the faults first.

Reading the above forum thread is interesting too. I'd love to have seen him come to the party and just swap units with AEM fella so they can test each others rather than him just having a sulk.  Interesting to see that his latest units now have a response time of 10-20ms depending on the sensor - a time he had been harping on was impossible and the AEM were manipulating their results :scratch:

Either way, whatever unit I end up with - be it an X series or a S3, it'll be streets ahead of the old Inovate mtxl/4.2 combo.

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I can confirm that the spartan one does respond really fast by comparison.

Closed loop fuel trim worked a lot nicer than before. 

But as the sensors age they seem to get a bit sluggy on response. Guess filled up more with soot or something. 

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Gotta rememeber that 14point7 is a one man band, and he's an engineer type guy not a customer service guy. 

Where as other companies likely have sales people, support people etc. 

Not dissing 14point7, I'd happily buy more of their stuff, in fact, I'll be buying another same wideband setup at some point in future. 

But if you need some hand holding through installation or something (unlikely in this case) then bigger company might offer better support. 

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It's just more my hesitancy buying stuff from folks who can't even communicate. Something goes wrong and it becomes a ballache. 

Still very curious about how his products can now perform at a level that he'd previously claimed another company was telling fibs when they did it.  Curiouser and curiourser... 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 30/07/2023 at 23:10, Roman said:

I'm using a Spartan 3, have used the early version with the analog output (as the canbus didnt work, so new later model one sent under warranty)

and then with canbus. 

Both seemed crazy fast response time compared to 4.9 or 4.2 sensors. Not having to squish a range of results down to a 0-5v signal means you can get readings right out to 50:1 and incredibly rich as well. 

Which is sort of pointless, but when you're initially dialling in a tune it means it takes fewer steps to get to the right point. 

The best part though, is I'm still on my first and only LSU-ADV sensor. Where as I've probably got nearly a dozen blown up 4.2 and 4.9 sensors kicking around. 

Definitely an A+ rating for Spartan 3 from me. But make sure to get the LSU-ADV. 

I need to look at a better wideband than the stock Haltech (shittech) 4.9 setup, its on its 3rd sensor with zero reason to be killing them.  The ecu has auto tune and all of a sudden ill notice the car wont idle as the sensor is gone bung and the ecu is pulling fuel

(if i had a bulb in the check engine light it might throw a light, but i got tired of all the other unknown check engine codes the Smelltech ecu throws that dont have any descriptions so i cant fix them as ive got no idea what they are, and the red light gets annoying. Just incase you didnt get it, I hate my CrapTech ecu). 
 

The ecu needs to be on to do anything with the tune, and it runs the sensor the whole time at full temp, so if you turn the key to start the car after playing with laptop, it cracks the sensor immediately.  I dont do that, but it still randomly kills sensors.  Used to run a 4.2 innovate on my old primera with Nismotronic, had the controller relayed off the fuel pump relay so it was only on if the engine was running, had the same sensor for 3 or 4 year on a turbo car. 

Where do you recomend to get the Spartan 3 from Dave? 

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I finally found out why the Starlet has been lacking so much power on the top end, the distributor rotor phasing was nowhere near ideal. For some reason I set it up with the middle of the rotor instead of the trailing edge pointing at the posts at 0 deg. This resulted in the spark having to jump a huge gap at anything more than about 20 degs advance.

For some reason it wasn't quite as simple to fix the problem as I would have expected - I tried to just rotate the distributor and change the #1 tooth offset in the ECU but as soon as I got near the correct value of about 90deg (originally was at 76) the engine would lose sync and stall. Nothing I tried worked, until I decided to just pull the distributor out and put it in rotated by one gear tooth. With the offset now being about 102 degrees the whole lot works fine. Looks like the engine wants a whole lot more fuel above 4000 rpm now as it is actually burning what it gets.

I've pulled a few degrees of timing out at high revs for now until the fueling is stable, but the car is definitely up on power.

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  • 1 month later...
20 minutes ago, Roman said:

Generally a waste of time compared to 98 octane pump gas. 

The only reason I can see to use it would be if there's some specific reason you need leaded fuel.

Like some janky old valve seats or whatever.

 

Ah right thanks 

Seen that avgas in rich form can get 130+ octane rating but nut sure if that is true or not 

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