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4age blown head gasket??


ms53_wagon

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Ive got a NZ new GT with blue top big port.

Started it the other morning and it had slight 3 cylinder action for about a minute, never done it before....

for the last three days its had a rough idle but still driven sweet as - no noticeable loss of power.

was a bit worse this morning on the way to work so i checked under the oil cap before driving home after work - lucky me its all milky under the cap!!! milky shit on the dip stick too.... also been using a little water. faaaark

The temp has never got above half though and it still drives fine and revs up sweet with no power loss.

Im assuming its blown head gasket or maybe a cracked head...? whats your thought?

I havn't changed a HG before but I reckon I could give it a good crack, are 4age's easy or hard to do this on? What sort of cost am i looking at for a gasket set (are genuine toyota recommended?), is it a must to change cambelt/pump etc too. Do i need to get the head tested/planed?

Cheers

Dan

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Very straight forward. you will need a 12point 10mm deep socket to get the head bolts out and thats about it. Valve stem seals complicate matters a bit but not hard to do.

If it has not been overheated just bang a gasket only on there and see if thatl sort it.

PM me for parts if you want.

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Sounds identical to my blown head gasket symptoms. It's a gamble if you don't plain the head, it's common practice to do it. When the head come off you can put a straight edge on it and look carefully around the blown area(if it is blown gasket and not a cracked head). Also make sure you mark the cam pulleys etc otherwise your in for big/bad surprises. Alternatively you could give it a dose of black pepper and sell it on?

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genuine products are almost always better then aftermarket, a but repco headgasket would be allgood.

have you pulled a cambelt off before? and when was the cambelt last one? could be worth replacing the cambelt, crankseal, cam seals, waterpump, idler and tensioner at the same time if money allows

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might as well just get it tested and skimmed, not that expensive, when you factor in doing the job twice if it needed it. personally i wouldn't bother changing the head gasket without doing it.

if your worried about doing valve stem seals, get them to do it when they skim it, but depends how long you want to keep it i guess. i would just get it done so its done.

they are pretty straight forward to do

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cheers guys.

any places in west auckland that you would recommend for getting the head skimmed/tested?

for the cambelt - if you turn the engine to TDC i thought there was some notches on the cams that lined up vertically..? otherwise ill make sure i use some twink or something to mark the cams and belt etc etc. Ive got a timing light to finely adjust it afterwards.

Whats a idler vs a tensioner?

Cheers

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Can you think of any reason it might have blown a head gasket then??

its possible that milky under the cap could simply be a result of residue in the engine from getting hot and cold

trust me, that can happen, often even,

So i would do a bit mor testing before you pull the head.

maybe check plugs etc and make sure they are a-ok to start with

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OK,

just went to try start it...

Now the battery is flat (hopefully not the engine seized) cause it wont turn over. just goes .....click....

Will have to do more investigation tomorrow, jump start etc.

If the alternator isn't charging the batt properly could this make the engine idle rough?

milky cap could hopefully just be a coincidence.....?

Id be stoked if it was just something to do with the alternator..........haha

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Alt may be gone, or you flattened the battery trying to start it. (almost flat battery plus a cold winters night = flat battery) So charge it or swap betteries if you can.

KY.. I bet you waited for a long time to say that! .. post of the week I reckon

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Just checked charge across batt when running = 14.3V which i think is sweet - therefore Alt should be sweet?. Ill try a different battery when i get time to rule that out as a problem.

It was hard to start though, like the stater motor was struggling to turn it over past the first "click", then kinda managed to just turn it over...?

IF its not a crappy battery (or dying starter motor), is there any reason why the engine would get harder to turn over?

Once slightly warm i turned it off and back on, started sweet.

once I started it up it ran pretty crappy for like a minute (semi 3 cylinder action) then idle went sweet.

The oil on the dip stick looks a bit more brown than usual too......

This 4age has only done 220,000km so should def last "4age's" haha

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Oh, same as I have then, if it was 3 door I was going to say giz to me, lol.

Are you on Toyspeed? could be worth asking on there, 14.3 sounds high? I seem to recall something about high voltages meaning something for the alternator.

What is it revving at, at idle after cold start?

Milky oil sounds like trouble.

My experience with older batteries is once they start struggling it's not long till they are dead.

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14.3 is exactly the correct charge rate this should be pumping out.

So you can rule that out

However, you said its hard to start and wind over slowly. But once its run for a bit then you can turn it off and back on with no problems

this to me suggests your battery is toast, so borrow another one and see how it goes.

is your battry a sealed MF style, or does it have fillers for each cell. if so, check your water levels please.

Although, water coming out of your reserviour isnt a good sign, unless recently you have over filled it above the max mark, then if will push out what isnt used.

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