fulloc

Could it be as simple as fouled plugs? and also what is the compression like? I had an issue with my series 5 once where it randomly wouldnt start one day, i thought it was toast. i tried a few things but in the end took it to glen monroe (rotary power) he fooled around with a 1m long phillips right down over the back of the top mount (i was young/ wasnt watching) he adjusted a screw of some kind and it was good as new.

bridge e1 and te1 with a paperclip or wire (in the diagnostics plug) idle should noticibly drop. you can then chuck the timing light on and move the dizzy round to the desired point

gap?

usually its timing related if you are getting intake backfire. no random vacuum hose or plugs fallen off anywhere? if i was still in welly id come help you out.

have you touched anything? checked leads, plugs timing etc? blocked fuel filter?

thats the drain back to the sump on the bottom by the sound of it

If you can, do a compression test, then re do it with a small amount of clean oil poured into the bores. This will often pick the pressure up and indicate rings are worn. Sometimes rings just stick and you get a bit of smoke/ usase but not all the time which makes it confusing.

pretty sure all -fe are non interference. ?

or take in a sample and match it up to something old and nissan?

looks like a good platform, that front lip is a good score too eagerly awaiting slam and wheels

i fail. wifes dinner party

i find it odd that you would need a new camshaft without anyone pulling the motor apart to see what condition its in...? has anyone checked plugs, leads, cap, points, timing, fuel filter etc etc for you? where are you located? its the same engine as an eb civic too which are cheap to get hold of, very very easy to repair diy if you get the manual from a library or similar. i once taught a gf to do a cambelt on one of these i also know that the 1.6 sohc from the late 70's accord will bolt in to most early civics, probably easier than going efi with a city engine.

you can drive it. i wouldnt drive far though... take the belt off if possible and leave fluid in it to lube

always puts a smile on my face, ive got a little rust to cut out next but its pretty minor really. someones definitely looked after it. i need to get it in the garage so i can pull the sunroof and patch it up. luckily the roof is totally sound and i have only a few minor spots by the boot drain holes. looking at putting a 1gge in it next as i really want to keep it period specific and while the 1ge has enough torque to have fun in the wet it just wont rev. Also not really needing a cert is a plus.

couple of pics from the recent welly meet. By fulloc at 2012-04-14 By fulloc at 2012-04-14 next on the list is get a little rust cut out. once i get set up in my new garage and the wof runs out il look at pulling the motor and putting something a bit better in. i also have a gt4 lsd which i will try get set up in the current t-series irs head. should make for a bit more fun in the wet

running some engine flush through could help if the oil rings are stuck. you'll need a specific tool to get the stem seals off with the head on. ive heard you can cut a spark plug and weld an airline fiting to it. then you can pump compresed air into the cylinder and keep the valves from dropping down. i had the same prob with a 4age, in the end i just pulled it apart, its probably gonna happen anyway...

if you are in auck look up murray at weber specs in silverdale. the undisputed god of carbs and a GC as well, usually happy to give advise

love your work man it looks great

ring subtech 09 580 2263. they are pretty GC should help you out

Brock-lee is 100% correct. i spent 18 months working at autolign and now im in a workshop and have thoroughly read wof and cert requirements. yup this is pointless...

my bad its inlet cam the mark is on, just take off the oil cap and turn engine over till you see this. http://www.pbase.com/aw11mr2/image/40045904 then do this http://www.pbase.com/aw11mr2/image/39365314 make us proud andy, we all learnt the hard way

dizzy = distributor youre either on the mark or one tooth forward or back. put a socket on the crank and wind the engine till the camshaft on the side of the engine where the dizzy is (exhaust cam) has a small notch visible on it at the cambelt end of the motor. this notch should be directly on the top at the correct position. you may need to pull that side of the rocker cover off to see properly. this wont hurt anything. next get the dizzy and have both the small holes in line like this http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g122/ ... uild16.jpg insert the dizzy in with the hole on top, it will try turn left or right. simply let it turn as it slides in then bolt/ plug up and try it. this will take a couple of goes. one you have it running you can rotate the dizzy slightly till it idles smoothly and then get a friend with a timing light to later confirm/ set the timing exactly for you. timing light flashes when the spark runs through lead/cyl number one and lets you line the spark timing up with the notch on the crank pulley. this should do it. il try find you a pic of the camshaft mark too. *edited for poor english

line up the marks on the cam and dizzy and try it till it works. you cant really hurt anything and theres only about 3 possible positions it will slip into. fuck i got my smallport running with a cam 180 out due to using the old owners timing marks and not checking it myself.

Davie motors in manukau are the suppliers of nice products which is the brand that supplies most parts places their studs. however the catalogues only list knurl diameter not courseness (not a real word?) so you may just have to measure carefully and take the plunge.

Il be there, this will be my first welly meet, look forward to meeting a few new people. Sounds like its going to be a pretty big one. So just to confirm its april 12th at holy pizza?