ms53_wagon Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 haha, thought so. ive never really worked on FWD's or CV's etc. Where/how should i disconnect gearbox from axles etc? do i need any special tools? chur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakesae101 Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 they should just pop off the box the axles are just splined and click into place in the box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 do i need any special tools?chur a pry bar and a large hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ms53_wagon Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 ok, planning on taking the box out this weekend. Just had a quick look and i don't know what is the easiest way to do this? I could just start undoing shit till i work it out but prob better to ask and then do it properly... Where is the easiest part to disconnect so the axles can slide out? I assume i take the axles out while the box is in place - i.e. not enough bend in the joints to allow the axles to slide out as the box is lifted (if you know what i mean..) also do i have to drain the gearbox fluid first before pulling out the axles? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Ok, unsure how Toyotas of that era lock the axle nuts on to the shaft, either by split pin or a locking nut you bash in the tab to lock, but I would jack the front in the air with the wheels removed and either remove the split pins or get a screwdriver and tap out the bend in the edge of the locking nut, once that's done put the car back on the ground with the center caps (if any) removed from the wheels so you can gain access to the driveshaft nuts while the wheels are firm on the ground. At this stage I would be soaking the nut/end of the driveshafts with CRC. Get a whatever size socket which fits over the nuts (32mm?), and a trusty power bar with a pipe slipped over it, something like the handle from a 3 ton floor jack etc. Hold it steady on the nut and then undo - you want to lever from the side that's going to push the pipe down towards the ground rather than the other side lifting the pipe up, as you may find the wheel will actually slip/spin with the force. Once the axle nuts are off, jack the car back up and remove the wheels again, now place the car up on jack stands and drain the gearbox oil, then while that's draining either remove the two hub to strut lower mount nuts/bolts or pop off the ball joint from the lower arm - whichever is easier. With Mitsis I usually undo the two 17mm nuts/bolts at the base of the strut as the ball joints are usually a prick to remove (especially if you don't have a ball joint splitter on hand). At this time I would also be spraying CRC in and around the splines of the driveshaft when the nuts have been removed from the ends of the driveshafts, and then tap the end of the driveshaft with a hammer/mallet so they move out of the hub. Some are slide fit like Mitsis, some are press fit like Subarus and require all sort of bashing to get out. I am hoping Toyotas are closer to Mitsubishis rather than Subarus. Once the axle stub is out of the hub, you pull up/down on the hub (depending what you have detached from the hub) to bring the outer CV joint and axle stub away from the hub. Now I would get under the car, re-fit the gearbox drain plug and remove drain pan and get in between the gearbox and inner CV joint with a pry bar or a very large flat bladed screwdriver and pop the inner CV joints out, they are held in with an expanding circlip at the end of the inner shaft, so may take a bit of a leverage to compress and pop out. I would probably just lift the engine/gearbox out as a whole. So once the driveshafts are out, undo all the engine/gearbox mounts and unhook wiring loom/piping/remove radiator/fuel lines etc and lift the lot out with an engine crane. You'll need to tilt the box down a bit lower than the engine to remove but it's entirely possible, and easier to remove as one. *edit* I've just seen from your project thread you've actually taken the engine out with keeping the box in place! that's usually the most difficult way to do it haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 http://www.turbocorolla.com/tech/images ... emoval.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 replace powerbar and pipe with big fuckoff twin hammer rattle gun then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Or Jack up, knock out tie rod ends, undo hub carrier from lower suspension A arm, pop CV's (driveshafts still on the hubs) and you're away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ms53_wagon Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 Ok, unsure how Toyotas of that era lock the axle nuts on to the shaft, either by split pin or a locking nut you bash in the tab to lock, but I would jack the front in the air with the wheels removed and either remove the split pins or get a screwdriver and tap out the bend in the edge of the locking nut, once that's done put the car back on the ground with the center caps (if any) removed from the wheels so you can gain access to the driveshaft nuts while the wheels are firm on the ground. At this stage I would be soaking the nut/end of the driveshafts with CRC. Get a whatever size socket which fits over the nuts (32mm?), and a trusty power bar with a pipe slipped over it, something like the handle from a 3 ton floor jack etc. Hold it steady on the nut and then undo - you want to lever from the side that's going to push the pipe down towards the ground rather than the other side lifting the pipe up, as you may find the wheel will actually slip/spin with the force.Once the axle nuts are off, jack the car back up and remove the wheels again, now place the car up on jack stands and drain the gearbox oil, then while that's draining either remove the two hub to strut lower mount nuts/bolts or pop off the ball joint from the lower arm - whichever is easier. With Mitsis I usually undo the two 17mm nuts/bolts at the base of the strut as the ball joints are usually a prick to remove (especially if you don't have a ball joint splitter on hand). At this time I would also be spraying CRC in and around the splines of the driveshaft when the nuts have been removed from the ends of the driveshafts, and then tap the end of the driveshaft with a hammer/mallet so they move out of the hub. Some are slide fit like Mitsis, some are press fit like Subarus and require all sort of bashing to get out. I am hoping Toyotas are closer to Mitsubishis rather than Subarus. Once the axle stub is out of the hub, you pull up/down on the hub (depending what you have detached from the hub) to bring the outer CV joint and axle stub away from the hub. Now I would get under the car, re-fit the gearbox drain plug and remove drain pan and get in between the gearbox and inner CV joint with a pry bar or a very large flat bladed screwdriver and pop the inner CV joints out, they are held in with an expanding circlip at the end of the inner shaft, so may take a bit of a leverage to compress and pop out. I would probably just lift the engine/gearbox out as a whole. So once the driveshafts are out, undo all the engine/gearbox mounts and unhook wiring loom/piping/remove radiator/fuel lines etc and lift the lot out with an engine crane. You'll need to tilt the box down a bit lower than the engine to remove but it's entirely possible, and easier to remove as one. *edit* I've just seen from your project thread you've actually taken the engine out with keeping the box in place! that's usually the most difficult way to do it haha. legend! perfect! got 70% done this morning. chur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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