Ridal

I'm having trouble with getting any signal from the outputs of the amp. It's a Pioneer GM-X84 (4x35w). I couldn't find a wiring diagram/user manual but found the pins were marked on the circuit board. I wired it up using only channel A to power the front two speakers. It has a 12 pin Molex type plug and two rca inputs, one for each channel. It powers up fine, the light comes on and using a test light I found various components in the circuitry are receiving power but nothing comes out of the speakers. I checked the board for dry solder or blow caps but everything looks ok. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem might be? Thanks in advance. http://i.imgur.com/9EOemXU.jpg http://i.imgur.com/wwc8NFj.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XHiIDh3.jpg

Running 10W/40 semi synthetic. The thing that's troubling me is that in the space of two start ups in a short period of time it went from low to normal to low.

To increase pressure. It's just a matter of putting a 3mm washer at one end of the spring to increase the spring force. I think it's unlikely the cause because if it was jammed shut pressure would be high and if it was fully open pressure should still reach high pressure at high rpm and be super low at low rpm.

Toyota 5K. I have shimmed the oil pump pressure release valve and all was good, running 1/2 on the standard gauge at max pressure. When cold it would be on max at low rpm as determined by pressure release and come down as oil temp increased as you would expect. Recently it would start low when cold and slowly work its way up to max pressure as the oil warmed up. More recently it has not reached max pressure and only increases slightly with rpm. I hooked up a mechanical gauge to see what was going on and it was 30-40 psi (low-high). Turned engine off. Started engine 15 mins later and quickly went up to ~70 psi which is what I would expect the release valve value to be. Now it is back to 30-40 psi. I just changed the oil and filter using a genuine filter and engine flush which has made no difference. I'm thinking a blockage somewhere but I'm not sure. Any ideas?

If its easy to get a drill square on it you should be able to drill it out enough to start a tap to get the last of the thread. Well that's what I did when a bolt seized and snapped in my bonnet and it worked.

I've got a few spare seats in the wag from the chur if anyone needs a ride.

Good day for it. QCR disappeared from the rear vision pretty quickly on the drive back. Might have been the smoke screen though.

Mine cost $100. The certifier didn't mention any need for plug welds.

I have the same problem. It feels like air in the system and improves if I stamp real hard on the pedal. I've adjusted the rears, bled system multiple times (fixes problem for a short while) and replaced wheel cylinders. Master cylinder isn't very old either. Hoses don't seem to be in bad shape and the calipers don't seem to be leaking. I'm upgrading soon which will replace most parts so I'll see how that goes.

Once again my engine is not in my car and I'll miss another meet. Looking forward to Skope though. The gravel car park is mean for skids there.

Going from 10kg to 4.8kg flywheel was one of the better mods I did. Much more willing/responsive when shifting. No negative effects in my application.

Yea I replaced the belts on my original ones and they stretch as well which can distort the sound. So I'll replace that as well if it's not too difficult. This will also free up some realestate for my single din omori gauge holder thing.

Hopefully putting my car back together today so may actually show up to this one.

I snatched the tape deck. I was waiting for something that would be period correct for my Carina to replace my semi faulty standard ones and had to buy this. Hopefully it works. Also added some Beastie Boys to my cassette library. Any idea what would cause it to jam as mentioned in the listing? I was planning on partially disassembling it and spraying some contact cleaner in there and maybe apply some silicon grease to the mechanics.

I'm planning on buying a rod of 'delrin' polymer to turn up some bushes/mounts. The factory rubber mounts allow so much movement that the headers have recenlty broken due to metal fatigue. I'll post up here when I instal and get results.

I think the cert rules make you crack test anything that would be really bad if it failed. The tacking is just to hold the cup in place laterally once you've destroyed the stakes.

I'm going for cert so figured now is a good time to upgrade the brakes. I'll be taking the car to the track as much as I can. Currently has standards everything which includes: - KA67 struts with single pot calipers (140mm ish bolt spacing) on solid discs - T series drum rear Currently just has the 5K in it but I'd like to upgrade to something which would cope with more power in the future. I've already made a set of adjustable coilovers from some AA60 Carina struts so would like to still use those. Any help is appreciated.

Absolute good cobber. Great work and the carina is back in action.

Thanks Mutiny, I've sent Mr. Mk1 a message just now.

Would anyone happen to know if a 2S - T50 starter motor would fit a 5K - T50? I've had a look on toyodiy and both the 5K and 2S starters are compatible with the same engines (C series) but not each other.

I've got an electric variable speed Makita which I've found pretty good. Very powerful and it gets a bit hot if you're using it for long periods of time. If you're using it for porting you can just use long shank bits to get in real deep. I also have a dremel but as mentioned above the chuck size is limiting. I've found pneumatic ones too hard to control the rpm because they use so much air. So if you need good rpm control I'd go electric. If you're using flapper wheels and things like that they will have a max and optimum rpm rating on them so that's something to consider. Depends on what you're using it for.

Rule of thumb is keep increasing overlap until flames reach 2ft out exhaust. I'm keen to go bigger but I'll definitely need 45's to get revs.

I think mine will do just under 4000 at 100 in 5th with this ratio. I'm jumping from 4.1 so about 17%. Similar to what it was with the 13's + tiny tyres. A bit silly but the gear spacing is pretty junk in a standard T50 and it takes a bit to get up on the cam.

4age 4age 4age .... This one has the 4.77 (4. which is ideal. Just hoping it's a T series.