keltik Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 My center diff controller arrived today. Ive got wiring diagrams for the 2 different spec controllers and know what I need to do. First job is to get some plugs to suit it, then I can start on the wiring loom. Should be a piece of cake on my car as I can use the power feeds, grounds and sensor wires from the auto TCU that used to be there. Then ill just tap into the PRND321 lights in the cluster and use them for the diff lock indicators. Theres just a small piece of acrylic I put in front of the display to blank it off - shouldnt be too much of a chore to scribe the right markings into it. Or just give the drawings of what I need to Jared and he can make me a new piece on his CNC laser thing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Such a sweet car, my brother has one of these engines in his 06 Legacy, loves the fuck out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 Cracked into the controller and managed to find an old Japanese service manual with a wiring diagram. There are 2 or 3 variants on the controller so to make sure I had the diagram for the correct one, I made a list of what each pin should do then correlated that with what I could see on the board. If someone with some IC knowledge could follow me here to make sure I don't let the smoke escape; (Edit: My camera really needs a macro mode) A heap of pins are not shown on the wiring diagram and don't appear to connect to anything on the board. Power supply pins are all logical and where 2 or 3 pins should all have 12v they share a track on the board so im confident they are correct. Input and output pins are in clusters and go off to some chips, so I reckon they are right The diff electromagnet driver output goes off near a beefy looking mosfet so id say that's right. The confusing bit is the grounds. The pins labelled as sensor grounds go to the big track on the back of the board, but the pins labelled power grounds don't appear to connect to anything. Also I have no way of knowing if the control inputs are in the right place, but given the fact 90% of the pins make sense and seem correct, im willing to bet ive got the right diagram so should be ok to give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Got all of the wiring in place for the diff controller. Tapped into the old auto trans ECU wiring. Its fused, well grounded and is in a good location so worked out excellently. Took the instrument cluster apart and removed the blanking plate i'd put over the shift display, quite happy with how its gonna look. From diff lock at the top to fully open at the bottom. The only way it could be improved is if the top light was red and the 2nd was orange but theres no easy way to change that so i can live with it for now. Wow the camera makes my dash look shitty. The front panel is normally smoked so you can only see whats illuminated. The ride height is nearly sorted. No rub and it looks acceptable, front still has to come down a little but not too much. Cant go too much lower without having issues on the front. Tire will start to hit the guard and driveshaft would be very close to the chassis rail at full compression. Got the exhaust nearly finished too. Had the front section rebuilt out of ali-clad pipe and spent a lot more time getting the angles right so its a lot closer to the floor. This was crucial given the new ride height, i'd ripped through the bottom of the old flexi trying to get into my driveway twice a day. Still need to reinstall one more resonator i thought i could lose but it was actually needed. Too crackly without it. The goal for next weekend is to have sorted a way of soldering onto the controllers board and also have a 5kohm pot mounted. Then all i need to do is plug everything in and test it. Should have extra resonator and ride height sorted by then too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB8-TypeR Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 It sounded lovely today as you went past BP around 11am Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 Exhaust finished, ride height sorted, adjustable rear arms fitted, DCCD controller fitted and working, wheel alignment done; Front Camber: -0.5* Total Toe: 1.5mm Caster: 4* Rear Camber: -0.5* (before -2*48') Total Toe: 2.4mm (before 5.6mm) The centre diff is very grabby on the medium settings so i might experiment with adding a little more friction modifier into the gear oil. Its kinda cool having a dial for understeer. Got a much bigger adjustable sway bar for the rear on the way. Will be fitting a stiffer front bar too, but the bushes in the rear one are shot so it was a nice place to start. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Excellent work good sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosozoku_gx71 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 I think videos of the diff in full rwd mode are required now....please. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 Got the extra LSD additive in there and it made the diff a lot more friendly. Doesnt lock as savagely as it used to but frankly i have no use for anything more than half lock. Had a little play with it on the track and corner exits feel a lot sharper with it set fully open. Also tried some clutch kicks mid hairpin in 2nd which got the rears smoking nicely. Sadly i didnt get much of that on video, but heres some footage for those who havnt seen it. Anyways, cert is booked with Mr Clint for October. Also doing my 6R in October so its going to be an expensive busy month. To make it even more expensive and busy, i seem to have acquired a new project car. It has chrome bumpers, pushrods, targa tops and carburettors....so i think it might possibly be oldschool? More details on that to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 BBBBBBbBBBBBBBBBBBBBRRRUMBY? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Restricted licence passed. Cert in progress, Success all round really. Bad news: Serviced at 232,000km and was down on oil, put 1 liter of oil in at 237,000km, put another liter of oil in at 240,000km. Im leaving a good hearty chuff of blue after any serious engine braking. Subaru of America had a big issue with these motors drinking oil and would supply free oil top ups for life for any affected vehicles. They would only replace the engine under warranty if it used more than 2L per 10,000km. Anyways, we'll see how long this one lasts....next engine will be a 3.6 if it comes to that. MOAR CUBES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Restricted licence passed. wat? also, guts at oil consumption cheif! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Big Block Subaru sounds sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 tell me more about this 3.6L motor? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hachi-ichi Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 EZ36 from 010 + Legacy? Keen to see how that hauls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 (tribeca) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Together our wagons lose more oil than the exxon valdez. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 tell me more about this 3.6L motor? Same motor, they just stroked the piss out of it and bored it out a bit more. Added variable timing to the exhaust cam but i think they removed the vtec/2 cam profiles. Same peak power but a much fatter torque curve. So you slam in a cam with extra doort, beef up the higher rpm end of the scale and should be good for 300+hp. Did some more research and found some technical articles from Subaru America. Also found a nice write up from an engine builder and some info from people who mod this motor for aviation use. It seems the open deck block causes the cylinders to go slightly out of round in certain circumstances...which then causes decent suck-by under engine braking. Eventually that carbons up the rings untill they dont seal nice any more and you just lose more and more power. The builders fix it by doweling the block. No idea if thats whats happened to mine but its food for thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 One of my front calipers was a bit damaged from where the previous owner had a wheel fail and ground away a section of the caliper body. So i picked up a replacement from my good buddies at Strongs while i was in the Auckland area t'other day. A good dunk in degreaser and brake clean followed by a wee scrub up made it look mint. Genuine Subaru parts are usually horribly priced but the best aftermarket seal kit i could find was around 80+GST per side and the genuine one does both sides for $65+GST so super happy with that! So there you go kiddies, if you want seals - get this part number; Then buff the crud off the pistons, inspect for pitting or scoring...remove all the rubber seals and replace with the new ones. Little bit of supplied rubber grease helps the pistons go back in nicely. Then slam the caliper on the car, bleed it vigorously, knock over the bleeding bottle, swear a bit, clean things up. Reinstall the nice street pads so you dont have to go squeeling up a storm at urban intersections. Then step back and admire the shiny new part compared to the fucked old one. Also notice the blackened ring on your front mags where the paint has oxidised from the extreme heat of track day braking to dive up the inside of WRX's and other things you have no business racing against. Fixed. Good for a few more years now. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 Another litre of oil has magic'd itself away. Actively beginning saving for new motor. Discovered the new Legacys have a very different engine mounting system going on so i need to find one from a Tribeca which is hard 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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