Stu Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 I revisited your RX3 thread the other day - love the dedication! The thread for the Rotovette seems to be bung thou? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share Posted December 11, 2012 ahhh yeah the chevette forum. Memories. Just ask Tortron about the discussions that went on many moons ago. The forum was shut ages ago but kept up for viewing. But the links dont go directly to the car. Sadly now that forum seems to be filled with shit loads of crap adverts for ug boots etc- its been hacked by russians and chinese by the looks of it? If you go to the 3rd to last page under members cars you find 'project Rotorvette' Try this link- put it straight in the address bar.. might work? http://www.chevettes...hp?f=16&t=11982 EDIT; that link seems to work fine. weird.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 Still might have look into either making a new manifold or going itbs. The throttle body will end up right above the back edge of the radiator and need quite a tight bend heading into it. Oh.. And the idle controll valve sit right where the top pipes come out. Without the icv the tb will clear the pipes but I'd have to add in the icv somewhere else with remote piping and vac lines. Plus it'll all possibly look a bit messy around the front. I'd rather a plenum that is fed from the side and in some way deep enough that I get most even fed of air to each cylinder. If I went itbs then the sound.... Hmmm dilemmas. I'm gonna have a coffee... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 flip plenum round and take air from cowl area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 Itbs with crossover runners Like half of this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 straight 6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 Can't flip manifold as the tb would end up right in middle of bulkhead. Shame. Durty- those above itbs crossed over have a similar layout to what I would like to build. I think the only way I can get some nice length into the runners. Without lowering the engine further, going by measurements against where the current engine is with sump clearance, I have about 165 mm between the inlet manifold faces and the bonnet underside bracing. The Fraser manifold is about 140 mm high. I would have to build the inlet runners in modular style so they bolt to the plenum chamber. Otherwise installing or removing the fuel rails would be a mission. I love the look of the Alfa gta v6.... Hmmmmmmmmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 I'd be keen to use an Alfa V6 in RWD format oneday. Such a fun engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 we have a GTA in a work for some paint. its black, got the 3.2 engine, manual, full black leather, big telephone dial wheels. so nice- not many modern fwd cars I want to own but id happily have one of these. Or a pug 205. Or a Fiat coupe turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Good progress on the engine swap. When I moved my engine back I found the gearshifter fouled on the handbrake in 2nd and 4th gear. Had to take 15mm out of the handbrake lever. Why don't you run a remote oil filter and then not have to worry about the crossmember clearance? Means you can mount it somewhere it where it won't make a mess when you change it either. Good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 Yeah I seem to remember either you or 1300hundys magnum 4age conversion had issues with handbrake. Luckily mine is ok- the gear stick is about 1" away from end of handbrake. So that's nice. I tried the filter today and I can just unscrew it with engine in place. And that's nice too. Gearbox mount now all sorted and engine mounts well under way. Will be all bolted in tomorrow and then I'll start on the sump. Quite excited even though I know there is a whole shit load of work and I'm sure some grief yet to arrive on the scene. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Dem welds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 Ok? Mig was up high so heaps of penetration. Quite chunky mounts I admit but wanna keep Don Hoff certifier happy. Looking forwards to but nervous about tig welding the sump together. Will be good practice and at least can't be seen easily when it all goes messy. Will tack it together with mig though and tig it at home from the comfort of my sandfly infested shed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Ok? I wish I could get my welds looking a third as good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 Damn man, making some kickass progress! I'm inspired, and hope to match efforts on my car this week . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 Cheers zac- crack on with it! Welding the sump right now. Flat joint or outside corner joints I find easy enough. But inside corner butt joints are bloody hard. looks terrible and taking me ages. I dont think im starting with enough grunt. The arc will tend to go towards one piece or the other but not down into the foot of the corner. And its harder to see whats happening. good practice I guess. I hate seeing the argon gauge going down. its like driving a hard driven rotary and watching the fuel gauge. dollar signs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 How's your tungsten protrusion? I always find it helps to have a freshly ground sharp tungsten, number 6 cup, and slightly more protrusion than usual, for inside corner joints. Get the tungsten in nice and close. Have to be careful of crashing it though, but I find it makes things easier to get it right close in to the corner. No work on Starion today, spent the day doing prep on the Wanker for it's first off road outing next weekend . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 Ahhhh protrusion. Yeah I stuck the tungsten out further and have been using a 6 cup. I reckon I might not being giving it enough ompff into the joint and then it just gets hot too slowly. It seems that I have to give it heaps and be real quick to get it moving and feed the filler rod in quick. Something I'm still not that good at. What's the wanker you talk about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 remember going down a cup size usually produces an increase in visible clevage 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Wanker = Pajero. Something about Pajero meaning Wanker in another language. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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