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Camber on a SOLID rear end


Truenotch

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Interesting stuff from kpr's build thread, I've got a few queries now since everyone seems keen to try it. The idea is simple enough - slice and weld, or just head a spot and let it tweak when cooling.

My main query is whether this would mess up the geometry if done to a car with 4link etc. Since KPR hasn't welded his shock mounts or links on yet he has a blank canvas for correct angles... but if you did this with an existing 4 link it would leave them twisted all the time (not by much, but 4 links are known for binding when angles are wrong).

Do you think it would work sweet or not? Discuss.

In my case I've got a good parallel, even length 4 link setup and a floating axle solid diff (which will allow for more 'natural play" due to having a spline on each end). I'd like to try to get some camber, but don't want to risk ruining the geometry.

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well you thought wrong - there's a small amount in play of the splines, and infact Truenotch said he had floating axles therefore it's splined on both ends. Sure it will probably wear out the splines at a faster rate but you can get away with at least 1deg of camber with the amount of play in a spline.

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the super taxis run a eccentric bearing setup to get their adjustment, cant seem to find a picture

you mean the aussie ones? or NZV8's?

I'm pretty sure the NZV8's just put the whole rear axle in a press and bend it.

I dont think the distance the link attachments move will be that significant really, I guess if your running stiff bushes it possible though. if you have spherical bearings it would be ok, the arm might just be doing an arc thats just a whisker off being vertical with the position change.

calculate out the position change mabye? if you know the distance of the pickup points on the diff and the amount of camber required you can work out the position change by trigonometry.

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Heat shrinking the diff housing is the normal and fastest way to infroduce negative camber into a live rear axle.

1 - 1.5 degrees is all you will get out of it and there is an obvious stress load, increased wear and reduced power to the road wheel as a result.

Truenotch - I doubt it will mess up your geometry at all. Heat shrink, don't cut. Heat shrinking is reversible too.

First you need to lock down the housing and measure the shit out of it before getting it hot. Spend $80 on a digital protractor from TradeMe

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i was going to do this a while ago, the yanks do it, but they run floating axels to make up for it

apartently anything less than 1.5 degrees is useless, so i worked out how much i needed to bend it to get 1.5degrees then worked out length of axel to see how much it need to deflect on the head end and it was heaps! like i would imange a axel lasting you a couple of events if your lucky

i wouldn't mind a degree for some more guard clearance, but its not worth it IMO

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the super taxis run a eccentric bearing setup to get their adjustment, cant seem to find a picture

you mean the aussie ones? or NZV8's?

I'm pretty sure the NZV8's just put the whole rear axle in a press and bend it.

OZ v8's dude, they definitely run eccentric bearings with adjustment not bent housings. Just was trying to find a picture for reference

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someone needs to just do this on a shitter diff, thrash it and see what happens, andlet the rest of us know!

anyone got a spare kp diff?

give me a few months. will post up here if mine breaks.

mate who gave me the idea to do it sent me this:

AE86Drinkrowtoyota014.jpg

drinkrow ae86 apparently they are running 3 degrees and a little toe in, no issues after seasons racing. axles have to be hammered in and out

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