SHGWAG Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 So on Saturday I changed the oil in this thing and swapped exhausts in preparation for the Tune on Thursday. Here is a comparison of my nice (albeit loud) 3 inch system compared to the cheap and nasty 2.5 inch system I used to pass a Cert: As you can see, the 3 inch has a lot better flow. Here's a current engine bay pic: It's not the tidiest, but it works. IC Piping needs a paint. I also washed the thing (although you can't really see it sparkle here): *Note the WOF sticker in the top corner of the windshield - it's current. Also, here's a picture of me Repping OS: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Should move the wof sticker to behind the tinted bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 just cause the cops wont pull over an rx7 just enough to keep the day interesting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Getting pinged for noise is my only concern on the drive up & back. However, this thing is loudest at idle (Due to the porting) When under load it quietens down quite a bit / Induction noise overcomes exhaust noise on boost. This thing actually gets quieter with revs. So If I do get pulled up the key is to turn it off while decellerating and just roll to a stop. (It worked last time I got pulled up with this exhaust on) I'll then wait for the cop to go on his merry way before firing it back up and leaving. Also, I've found that not wearing a flatpeak increases cop's respect for you 10000% 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Beaver Posted September 3, 2013 Popular Post Share Posted September 3, 2013 Also, I've found that not wearing a flatpeak increases everyones respect for you 10000% 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 Today I got up semi early, fueled up the pig and headed for Auckland, to RX7 Heaven. Upon arriving we did a quick check of the car, and after tightening up the throttle cable and strapping it on the dyno, we were good to go. Immediately, even before starting the car, Tony picked up on a few things that were wrong with the set up of the ECU. Once these were fixed, he did a run, and netted 272wkw, but noticed there was an issue with it around the 6400rpm / 16psi Mark. So we swapped out the factory Mazda plugs, and swapped in some HKS racing plugs (Pricey at $80 a pop). However, on the next run the car netted over 290kw, but the issue was still there. So he fettled with it a little more, but no matter what, we couldn't get it to rev any higher.... With that I decided to call it a day. Here's a video of the last run, Managed to Net 301.7WKW at 16PSI at 6300ish RPM. So with that I headed home... Funny thing is, in the lower gears it'll rev fine past 6400rpm, making me think it's a boost issue. I can't recall what Map sensor is in this thing, or if the Boost Cut on the ECU was cutting in 2 PSI Early. Once I got home, I reviewed the dyno plots, and it seems like it's definitely a 16psi issue. Also, I found that I'd set the Boost controller for 13PSI and it was creeping to 16. So I'll up the boost solenoid duty cycle and see if it will hold a constant 15PSI. If so I'll take it back and finish the tune on the lower boost level and hopefully make moar power. To Review: Original tune: 2100rpm idle, 18psi? - 251kw, rich as, stuttered coming on to boost. 1 day to tune. 7 Heaven Tune: 1800rpm idle, 16psi 301kw, nice AFRs, smooth power right across the rev range. 2 hours to tune. The car is completely different to drive now, almost as smooth as factory if you over look the low RPM issues caused by the bridge port. If I can sort out the boost issue (whatever it is) and run 16 right the way through, 330wkw on 16psi should be achievable. (If it doesn't pop on the dyno) Hopefully I can upload dyno plot tomorrow. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 good result....traction issues? That sort of power would be pretty mental fast with traction i would imagine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 what are the deets on your block? and what turbo are you running? (going back through your stuff you mention like 3 or 4 different models) also what rpm you seeing full boost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 Series 8 block, bridgeported. Masterpower GT37 Turbo with a .96 rear housing, makes 13 psi by 5 then creeps up to 16. Once I re set the control solenoid (it's set at a way low duty cycle) I'll up the boost to 15psi Which I should see by 5200rpm. A ball bearing turbo would spool faster, or a smaller exhaust housing, but with the way this thing revs, I didn't want it running out of puff as it comes 'on port'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 is it balanced/dowelled? also did you say you had it pieced together by mark haynes? (I think you mentioned that ages ago to me but I cant remember) ugh, that sounds like 4 days of lag. smaller turbo for me itl be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 Nah, Demon put this block together. Balanced rotating assembly, but not dowelled (No need for the power I wanted). Yeah, the turbo is an old design though, if I forked out for a decent ball bearing turbo it would spool up faster. If I put a smaller exhaust wheel on it it would spool faster as well. Not sure what effect the porting has on the spool either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr1600 Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Awesome result dude You would think thats 5200rpm is quite late when you see it on paper but idle is a 1800rpm, Considering you should be able spin it quite happily through to 9000rpm. Its quite a wide powerband really (taking a sr20 from about 3.2k through to 7k is the same size) if the Hairdryer can keep up they just get better and better the more revs you feed them. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 Yea, It's most definitely a boost issue, on the road I can drive it quite happily past where it was cutting on the dyno with low to mid throttle. Only when you hit 16psi does it cut, so I'm wondering what could be causing the issue. ECU's boost cut was set for 18psi so I'm a bit miffed as to what could be causing the cut. Rev cut on this engine is 8500rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Tested your map sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 Nope, but that had crossed my mind. How does one go about testing the MAP Sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post CaMpylobacter Posted September 8, 2013 Popular Post Share Posted September 8, 2013 throw it at a globe, see if it senses it and moves out of the way in time. 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Put some air pressure up it and see what its output is doing, or a easier test it to throw it at a globe. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 Sweet, will look in to it this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 what are you reading the pressure off? gauge / separate boost controller? pretty easy to get a 2psi difference between gauge/boost controller and what ecu is seeing. depending on the accuracy of both, and where on manifold they are taken from Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 Both taken off vacuum ports on the intake manifold, 1 above the other. 1 port goes to ECU, the other port goes back to the dyno. Boost controller taken off port slightly further down the manifold, but was getting the same pressure read out as dyno. Reading the pressure off dyno printout & Boost Controller's built in gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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