Truenotch Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Here's a list of specs: ** Edit - under "4AGE 16v/20v specifications and data > 4A-GE (Japan) 16V / 20V Specifications" http://www.club4ag.com/technical_main.htm According to that there should only be 1 ohm or 2 ohm injectors for a 4age... I ran the bigger (smallport) ones on a Bluetop ecu for a while and it overfuelled like mad. That's more likely due to the increase in CC's though (182 vs 235cc). If your plug doesn't fit there should be another ECU that will fit that loom (Figured that out by myself). What colour are your plugs and what colour is the sticker on the ECU, does it say MT or AT on it - the early ones all say AT (Auto trans) but the manual loom bridges out the Neutral start switch somewhere. There are links there for most 4age ECU's - but you've probably already been there so I'll be on my way . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 cheers man, will have a proper read at lunch. i presume that means the low impedance ones that are intended to be used with the resistor pack? which i dont have and cant find where to connect haha. my ecu has an orange and white sticker with neither MT or AT written on it .. juts part numbers and a big 4A-G it all looks fine just trying to figure out if i need to put the resistors in, thus chopping my nice new loom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 If loom, ecu and injectors are all from the same vintage engine then should not need to modify or add resistors. Check the impedance of your injectors, they should be 1 ohm ones. Black plug in firewall area could be diagnostics? If it looks like below then leave unplugged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 there should be a plug for a resistor pack. It should be in the vicinity of the coil/ignitor plugs on the loom. Maybe I could come take a look/don't know if I'd be much help if seedy has been on the job though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 kinda looks like the power supply for the injecotrs goes through that big black plug, found continuity to all 4 injectors there but as with most of this shit i'm usure. sweet will look for resistor plug. also this loom connects both the two pins for injector signal to all four injectors whereas i've read the ecu is supposed to fire injectors 1 & 3 with one pin and 2 & 4 with the other.. anyone know about this? so much conflicting info on this stuff i dont know which to follow argh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Yeah they all run on the same power supply, but they are controlled by the earth - not the positive.... We made that mistake when wiring my AW11 and had the injectors firing all the time. Smokey shed??? Why yes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 haha yum smokey action! sweet, so.. i have continuity between injector power supply and injectors. so i'm gona look for a link between the earth side of the injectors and a connector which will thus be the resistor pack connector ben mentioned, if that sounds right.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 yay, no plug for resistor pack on either loom. had a squizz at the fwd one and it seems when L.alexanders had a look at it (possibly gave blind man bolt cutters and said go to work) they'd disconnected my start signal wire, twist'n'taped in to the 'run' power supply for the coil/igniter and connected that to 'STA' on the ecu. so it was feeding the ecu, cold start injector and timer a continuous start signal. anyone know why they would have done this? beats me. should ask the blind guy with the bolt cutters i guess. seems the injectors are wired the same between the two looms as well so yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 resistor pack plug is just a round plug on the power supply for the injectors from what Ive seen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE25 Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 seems like theres one easy solution. ditch that fucked wiring job and start with a non modified loom! there not much that needs to be changed in a factory loom. basically give it power and earth to the right places. run your alternator, starter, tacho, oil/water sensors etc to the dash and it'll run like a factory one. i dont recall having seeing an inj resistor pack on the bluetop? been a while tho. even though they're low imped inj.. maybe its in the ecu or something? anyone got definate proof of bluetop with inj resistor pack??? chasing a ghost? yes some bluetop 4age have a resister thing in the engine bay. but this is to adjust idle enrichment. the ae86 engine and loom in my 25 has this (next to coil/igniter)... but the bluetop from my ae82 fxgt does not. manual shows ae82 has it bolted to r/h strut tower from mem? where have you given power to the injectors/coil? is it the big fat black/orange wire coming out of eng loom above aircon (over top of cam cover next to dizzy). or has this been tapped into and fed rearwards etc? did you suss the fuel pump relay? search up 'circuit open relay'. (found bolted to side of ecu in ae82). the wiring diag may be in that 4age manual link. it's basically a relay with two coils... one triggered by STA signal (start key), the other keeps it triggered via the 'FC' pin on ecu. (or the switch in an afm). This is a 5 wire relay. two wires for fuel pump in/out. two power feeds from sta and FC to the coil, and coils have a shared earth wire. could also rig up two relays to do the same job. i have 4age and ae82 toyota manuals. if you need anything in particular from them let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 ^ cheers man. have a non raped loom in now, no change. some things that come to mind: - car was running lean when tested for cert, possibly caused by unneccessary reisitor pack? as you say, still need a confirmation on whether or not i need it. dont want to bake the ecu by running without, original one i had was a little toasy inside haha. - can anyone give me a set of part numbers for bluetop ecu, coil/igniter and dizzy so i can see if my shit matches or not? churchurchur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 I am going to Rape the fuck out of becker on this man But like i said, my datsun doesnt have any resistors and and is running the same injectors as you, As for the timing thing, when in diagnod mode it should knock the timing back 10 degress but still work like timing marks should, advancing and all that jazz. Also, it seems fucken weird that you dont notice any change in Diaode mode or not. Was suggested to me that maybe cut (blue with white tracer) close to the ecu incase it is earth out somewhere else, then you can eleminate that Piece of meat. Damn you starlet. Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyotaloyal Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Hey ya unskinny git^^^ nonraped loom= same issue try rape me this weekend and ill have the log splitter up ya so fast you wont know watsa going on till ive dropped you through the chipper and youve sprouted in the garden! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 this sounds like it could get interesting ... / hrmmm *goes and read upj ecu pinups for own ca* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 haha! next on the list is re check cam timing and parts match up. then go from there. again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 please remove resitior packs to start with. I agree that these are not needed as i have the same injectors on my datsun, and these dont run resistor packs. All your stuff should be bluetop stuff, and Resistors didnt come out will that fucekn queer black/red top action. I agree that this is probably why you are running lean on the Emo test. next as stated is your Cam timing. Another option mr Becker mentioned was that he once had a car with crazy issues and was found due to ECU and coil/ ignitor setup not matching. So maybe we also try that stuff off my datsun, as i dont think we ever tried coil and ECu together, other than that Do a skid. Also you wont damage ECu but in fact the injectors them selfs if Running Low impudency where you should be running high etc Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 wicked will remove resistors. wicked will rape your datsun wicked will rape your face wicked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 bring shit to pinkies again tomorrow nite then you said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 yes. fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 wanted: dizzy and carbs suit 4age! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.