Spencer Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Biggest thing is setting the idle switch in the tps correctly, other wise it will stuff around with the base timing. It realy shouldnt be the TPS. Try get a igniter and spare dizzy off seedy A1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 chur bo. got and tried both of said items from A1 auto, but to no avail. still has megay dicky timing. will have more questions tomorrow i'm sure! manual link = jeah boy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 saweet TPS measures up ok, have it set good now. MAP sensor seems to measure up within cooee of spec too, guess it could still be the wrong one for the injectors possibly? or would that make it run like a turd on a stick, as it did before we swapped to the current MAP sensor? also hooked up an engine check light that didnt tell me anything was wrong never been so keen to find a problem in all my life i tells ya anyone know about some sort of variable resistor in there somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 It would run mega arse with the wrong injectors. Variable resistor? shouldnt be anything like that in there? very strange issue your having, 4age wiring is usually a breeze! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Easy solution man - adapt a 4K points and condensor dizzy and run twin sidedrafts... Possibly sell your RWD manifold for the price of twin crabs?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 carbs = win so not keen to pull out loom if it seems to be the problem. damn you choppy mcchopson from tapeitbacktogethersville! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I have not been paying close attention so perhaps I have this wrong: Problem: The ignition retards as revs increase and has done so since this engine went into this car Stuff checked: MAP, TPS, Cam belt Stuff replaced: Dizzy, Ignitor, ECU So - it mut be something else not in the list above. Wiring? Dizzy cap? Rotor phasing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Yea your on the right track UJ The next big thing in the list to check is wiring, biggest one being from the dizzy to the ECU, because these are the main signals that tell the ECU to advance or retard. This scenario could also not throw any fault codes Things like map sensor, temp senders will usually throw a code once they go faulty. Assuming manu wired up the light correct When you short the pins TE1 & E1 if there is no codes the engine light should just flash constantly instead of throwing morse code type flashes (With the key in the on position) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 ok dizzy to ecu wiring checked out sweet. was gona hook up the check light again but took the next most productive route and stood on it as soon as i got it out!retry this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Was the old dizzy cap and rotor used on the new test dizzy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 yep, though both are same as provided with loaner dizzy. though the manual mentions two different types for aw and ae motors i believe.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 I still think you should use the dizzy tester. The tester will go into the engine bay and can use the car wiring. It is designed that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 tested tps wiring, all g. swapped map, no change will test dizzy next tme i'm in the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 so aaaanyway, back to this sweet ride of not goingness.. injector impedance... to add resistors or not? i'm completely lost but as far as i can tell my injectors measure up as low impedance, around 3ohm if i remember correctly. now have a sweet un-raped RWD ae loom to use - thanks so much Al almighty master of toyota parts (he combines with steve tse in some sort of voltron way). but i'm not sure if it has a connection for a resistor pack, or even if i actually need one. q: how can i tell if my ECU needs high impedance injectors or not? i took it to an auto sparky and they didnt learn me nothing, but they did take out the resistors that i put in. i'm all 'wtf' and shit. ecu is factory ae92 as is motor, tvis etc. ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 Heading down tonight? Need a lift? Ill be heading that way after 5ish to carry on with JB's HQ - sump off GAH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 car is at home, will be tinkering there. cheers though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 The resistor pack is a metal case with heat sink fins, should be pretty obvious. If the loom is un-molested the injectors won't form a circuit with this unplugged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 mint cheers spence. have a home mader to go in just need to find where what how to connect. what does/did the black multi pin plug coming off the loom connect to ? dash loom? its in the firewall area. the 14 pin plug doesnt fit the ECU so i've seen people have just connected the pins that are required.. +B, B1, Fc, W, batt.. is it better to do this back through the loom or run new wires to their destinations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 oh think i meant ae82 not 92 ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 you did Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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