Steelies Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 thanks dudes, will write this down and have super fun times diagnosis club on wednesday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 hey gang, after some more help on a couple of things... a) will a dx diff head go into starlet diff housing? anyone know how the fuel pump wiring is run to incorporate the 4age ecu's safety shut off for the pump? one of the wires is labelled as the fuel pump safety latch in the pinout key i have but i dont know how to wire it up. at the moment i have the pump running contunuously, on a solenoid controlled by ign signal from the key. Mr. cert said it has to prime then shut off if the engine isn't running. saves emptying the tank in a crash etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Starlets came with two different diffs, X code smaller and U code slightly larger in KP61 I think. If its U code then yep it is the same U code as found in ke30 and ke70/dx's. Use the fuel pump safety latch wire from ecu as the signal wire on a relay, instead of ign which will go all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 chur. i think my diff will be an X, stock kp60 stz. sweet can re wire the pump at lunch yuss! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Starlets came with two different diffs, X code smaller and U code slightly larger in KP61 I think. Yea as D said 2 diffs the chassis codes with starlets is simply the engine size, the diff change to 'U' happened with the facelift slant front starlets "drop hatch" stz Yea the pin out for the fuel cut off should go into a relay it only runs the pump when cranking/running the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Spencer I have later model drop hatch starlet and X-code diff so assumed it was by engine size, club-k says x-code for kp6x and u-code for kp61. Check your body tags for diff to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Check your body tags for diff to make sure. on the main plate or located somewhere else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/viewthread.php?tid=10452 Chur to mark for the sweet write-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 yea you are correct, kp61 = 4k bigger diff, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 just bought 4k diff, set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 ^ sweet they handle shit better than the X, plus now you can rob diff heads from ke70's and 30's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 ^^yuss! turns out i need a latching relay to use the ecu safety for puel fumf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Yea I said use a relay didn'y I? And you need the matching driveshaft for that new diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 he didnt have any other parts from the starlet. nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 I've done the swap before just cant remember if the flange is the same its definitely abit shorter. If the flanges are the same I'm sure you could shorten it abit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 righto, heres the lates pickle.. situation: suspected cam timing out due to dizzy being in a stupid place and failing for leanness in cert emission test. yes leanness. and dizzy position/timing has always been wack as. - set cam timing to sweet as - blocked off tube between cam cover and intake plenum - possible leanness issue as i think the cam cover valving, or some such, was buggered and it was sucking the bejesus out of the motor and making seals chirp etc. this has now stopped - and put in catch can on cam cover breather - double checked TDC mark etc. - even tried running rotor 180deg out, with swapped firing order. its a 13 tooth dizzy drive so not exactly 180 it runs well only when its at about 30deg btdc cos when you rev it it drops something like 30 or 40 deg back, thus it wont run when sitting at 10btdc, around where it should be. this has been constant through two computers and the whole time i've had the car to be on 30btdc the dizzy is on max retard - so we swapped it over a tooth to try get it not to be at the end of its adjustment. then it'll only just run on full advance adjustment, and flat as shit. questions with no answers as of yet: - possible rotor phasing is out? - does it have some wrong parts, possibly mr2 stuff i hear is a bit different? - what is the meaning of life? any 2c would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 26, 2010 Author Share Posted January 26, 2010 I think you had the best idea last night - chuck a pinto in it (with pushrods) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Also are you setting the base timing with T and E1 shorted in the diagnostic plug? Most toyotas of this era you short these pins and set the timing to 10 Degrees BTDC. Once removed the ECU will advance things up to the correct idle advance (something like 14 degrees) So basically your setup is retarding severely when it should be advancing under revs? I wouldnt bother mucking around with the position if thats the case. It'll be the dizzy or wiring maybe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 26, 2010 Author Share Posted January 26, 2010 I'll jump in cos Manu may not read this till later today. With the diagnostic plug bridged We set the timing to 10 BTDC and then rev it - straight off idle there is a distinct sluggish response as the timing retards to (I'm guessing) 30 ATDC although it steadily comes back up to 10 BTDC with revs.. If we set it to 30 BTDC and rev it - the timing drops away again but not so much that all power is lost.. Have tried varying things to rectify it but the only thing that we haven't really touched is the 3 wires going to the dizzy.. Can you tell us which wire goes to where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 I was having a think about this situation last night and moving the dizzy position in relation to the camshaft (one tooth on the scroll etc.) will not help the rotor phasing. My advice was a waste of time. If rotor phasing is the culprit then either the soft iron reluctor on the upper dizzy shaft is on in the wrong place or the dizzy has the wrong rotor or cap. If no one can come up with a more obvious solutionI still think that the dizzy should be mounted to my dizzy tester and eliminated as the trouble maker. It will take 20 minutes to prove the dizzy is good or not. As you may recall my dizzy was retarding at revs and was also locked (no mechanical advance) until we found the problem. I will be at the shed from 5.30pm machining the new propellor to make the bloody thing fit properly and then out for a dive. You wantum da tester den holla. Spencer: The one time I looked at the timing light the advance at idle was about 45 degrees. KKK reved the motor and the advance droped to something like 32 degrees and stayed there. When the motor dropped back to idle the advance stayed at 32 degrees. The trouble with this car is it is full of fucking computers and metric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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