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EBC yellowstuff worked extremely well in the MX5's. I did a one hour race with consistent laps at low 1.25's at Manfeild (near lap record) without wearing through a set. They feel good when cold and have good life expectancy. 

 

I'll also vouch for these.  Put them on the front of my old S14 with Znoelli S12 rotors, stopped amazingly fast compared to the OE rotors and redstuff pads I had prior.  

Two track days and around 15000kms of daily driving on the yellowstuff's and I've pulled them out to put in my S12 with over half life still in them.  (Yes they worked amazingly well for daily use as well)

 

 

Also if you're interested, I'm going to be selling a set of 205/55R15 used Dunlop semi slicks shortly?  They don't have much life left in them, but if they're not to big, they could be ideal for getting the feel of them.

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Hmmm okay cool those pads might be the way to go then.

 

I've driven on semi slicks before... They're a whole other level compared to street tires, awesome.

 

I'll probably do a few more trackdays on the T1Rs... Not sure that I could fit that profile of tire without hitting the gaurds.

 

Redoing my exhaust is going to be a priority over the semis at the moment, they way that I have made the extractors fit is a shameful  abomination haha.

 

Something for the fabrication fail thread.

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It's something my Dad bodged together, it's an external reciever that plugs into USB.

I think you can buy the chipset but then need to mount it on a circuit board or something like that.

 

So I cant use it with a phone, I've got a little net book that I use. I havent seen anything else that's 20hz.

 

I'll try find out some more info! As it's a good setup... It can pick up satellites even if you're indoors.

 

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Yeah even a phone based GPS setup is still pretty awesomely useful. But it depends on how much information you're wanting:

1hz reciever: (most phones/navigation systems) can tell you a laptime pretty accurately, as it can interpolate between points to figure out start/finish easy enough on a long straight. But not much more than that.

 

5hz receiver: Reasonably accurate showing cornering lines, wont tell you too much about exact braking points.

 

10hz receiver: good accuracy showing cornering lines and braking points.

 

20hz: Fast enough to have enough resolution for showing braking points, cornering lines etc.

 

Even at 20hz though it still cant really distinguish the gear shift points.

 

I would say something that had 5hz plus input from an accelerometer would be better than a 20+hz receiver on its own.
Something on a tablet with all of this integrated would be the best option but I'm not sure how many have 5hz or better, or if any programs integrate the accellerometer data. As that would be some fancy maths I guess.

Actually I should do some tests... I've got an android phone, Nokia phone, tablet, and netbook that I could all run Racechrono on simultaneously.
But different receiver rates as I think both of the phones are 1hz, possibly the tablet too.

 

It would be interesting to see how much of a difference there is.

One of the main differences is that my crappy android phone takes about 5 mins to pick up satelites, and not very many. But the Netbook USB one picks up heaps instantly.

So that factors into positional accuracy too I guess.

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To be honest I dont really want the car to look too much different to how it is, I like it looking like a normal car without crazy aero stuff or whatever.

 

If I could concoct a spoiler of some sort that looks like it suits and acheives something, might do that.
And maybe a front splitter, although for the small benefit it provides I'd rather keep the ground clearance and enjoy driving it more.

 

I bought some Ferodo DS2000 pads, on reccomendation of the guys at racebrakes.

 

I chopped up my extractors 2-1 section and reangled them, and shortened the pipe after the 2-1 section merges so it's easier to get in and out. So I might be able to pull the engine out with the extractors still on now, which would make things that little bit easier. But now I've got to remake the rest of the exhaust, haha.

 

Will be using a hotdog style resonator thingy and a straight through offset oval muffler. Might be all of the louds, but I'll make the flanges and mounts so it can be easily swapped to a triple pass muffler if need be.

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Yeah that upper rear roof wing thing from an MA61 would be useful as it would delay the point at which the air detaches from the roof.

 

The lower rear wing on an MA61 is likely there to deal with the air that wraps around from the sides of the car, and stop it from interacting with the swirling air lower down at the back of the car.

 

I'll have more of a play around later and post some pics with a few things added.

 

Gonna carry on with the exhaust today though, hopefully it's a bit quieter with 2 mufflers.

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Since I had to pull it apart anyway to fix the gasket I have now modified my extractors (To solve gasket and ground clearance issues) in such a way that I'll need to remake the rest of the exhaust to make the car drivable.

 

Pretty much instant regret / should have just smashed in another gasket haha.

 

Hopefully I can remake the exhaust in a weekend though, with help of Sentra Dave's fancy lifting machine.

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Yeah you could be right.

Another option could be machining grooves into one of the flanges so that it uses the O ring type gaskets as per the standard Altezza manifold.

Although I dont think I'd be able to fit either piece of my manifold into the milling machine so probably not an option either.

 

I think I'll see how I go with copper unless I can get some sharp pricing on lasercut super thin stainless to make an MLS one.

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VG found some awesome gasket material that I'm intending to use also. Sounds better than most other options. 

 

Best stuff I've used yet was a aluminium outer with some kind of ceramic sandwiched in between. Worked well and lasted for ages but was tricky to shape. 

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If you're talking about copper gaskets.  Putting one in my old S14 made a huge difference.  I replaced that damned thing 3x with Repco multi steel ones, and it wasn't until I spent twice the money on a copper one from Tauranga that it actually lasted.  This was a T2 size gasket between manifold and factory turbo.  It's similar spec to the aluminium one, where it's got a ceramic type internal.  For memory it was $45 inc freight from Tauranga and I had to send them an old one to make a copy of.  I could possibly find out who it was if you're interested?  Or if my post is irrelevant, just ignore it.

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Hey yeah that sounds exactly like what I'm after!

 

Ive found out that there's a place around the corner from my work though that can lasercut .5mm stainless steel, so I'm going to whip up a cad file and get them to cut 10 or so (5 or 6 layers per gasket)

 

Because if this works alright I'll probably end up getting a few other things cut the same way, as multilayer stainless is reusable compared to ones that crush up.

 

But thanks I'll PM you if I end up needing to go down that road.

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I took my 2-1 section down to Gaspex and explained the situation, they are coming up with a solution that they say should stop the leaking and be reusable too. But not copper as they said it would likely leak for this application.

 

Should have it in the car later today, will see how it goes!

 

EDIT: Picked it up, damn looks good! And not too spendy @ $27... I've probably spent twice than that already, and lots of time trying to bodge solutions together.

Aahh well lesson learned for next time, A++ would trade again

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