peteretep Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 using paint stripper sucks, I think I need to put more on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 yuh, ruins bodyfiller aswell, means you have to fix all that again, i would only use where i cant use my DA and 40grit to strip with. also depends on the stripper i have used some stuff that seemed only to degrease lol and stain the paint, the crc stuff seems to get a good rep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 get the brush on stuff, and give the paint a quick sand with some rough paper first to get some grooves in it so the stripper gets into the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_feinted Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 Hi, great thread ive learnt a few tricks reading thru it already ive got a question about underseal... Ive just about finished the rust repairs on my mark 2, i have already used rubber underseal on the wheelarches and the sills. Its the crap in the red spraycan available from mitre 10. the stuff seems to not set very hard. (soft enough i can still rip it with my fingertip yet i sprayed it a month or so ago.) Im wanting to spray the boot channels (like around the rubber boot seal) and the roof gutters under the chrome trim with something similar only more durable that sets harder, is waterproof and i can paint over it. Some of my welding/nutech is not all that tidy and i think underseal would smooth it up a bit and still be flexible and waterproof, more so than just normal primer and paint. i dont wanna use the mitre 10 shit and have it all soft getting damaged putting stuff in the boot etc. Any1 know of a quality, durable, hard setting rubber underseal and or where i might find some? Thnx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 If its flexible then paint will have a hard time sticking to it. Underseal is supposed to not set hard so it doesnt chip off, but mine i can just pick off with my finernail, a very hard push with my finger with leave slight marks in it. i think what your tring to acheive would look quite bad sorry, i reckon you get some spray putty, its thicker than filler primer but thinner than bog and spray that around you bog/welded areas the prime and paint. As for the boot, hippos bedliner would make a durable boot finish or if you dont need so durable, $50 got me primer and some quite hard but not for polishing paint that i sprayed my boot interior with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_feinted Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 Hey thnx, yeah some spray putty sounds like it would help. I know underseal in there sounds bad but i was kinda imagineing i would mask off all but a thin 20mm strip around the bottom of the U shape metal channel and spray a thin coat of underseal/sealer. This would be half covered by the rubber boot seal when i refit it and would create a waterproof layer protecting the whole water runout channels. I can see normal paint finish cracking as soon as that boot lip gets hit by accident putting stuff in the boot etc. Im not too concerned with what it looks like to a point its just an effort to keep water out and try save my car rusting anymore from the inside out. Basically i want to know any good underseal brands available, If u have used the mitre 10 stuff ull know why i wanna try something better or at least more suitable for what im trying to achieve. cheers again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 I have used a whole lot of stuff i got cheap from repco and supercheap to flood my sills with lol, paint wont stick to it, not that i wanted it to. Properly applied paint should not crack, you can add flex additive which further increases its flex ability, i have a quarter panel that was mashed in by a useless parker and the only defect is the rub from the other car, the paint was fine. If you still believe a type of coating is necesary then use clear silicone, very flexible and not too hideous, underseal is soft and messy and ugly and i really doubt it gets much better than the mitre 10 stuff, unless you are using such things as black epoxy. Underseal is basically a tar, its a bitumen based compound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 If you still believe a type of coating is necesary then use clear silicone, very flexible and not too hideousSika Flex FTW cause its not silicone based, so you can paint over it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 Or use that /\ up to you really, havent heard of that product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 underseal is soft and messy and ugly and i really doubt it gets much better than the mitre 10 stuff, unless you are using such things as black epoxy. Underseal is basically a tar, its a bitumen based compound. Nope. I believe al_feinted is using a stone gaurd,far different from underseal.tends to be far more rubberised.It's used under gaurds as it absorbs stones "pinging sound" better,and will not chip.it's not used on sills or exterior as it's far to thin,and will not protect from rust aswell.Underseal will set rather hard. Stay clear of a Mitre 10 type place,stick to a dedicated automotive stockist. My recommendation: just use a high fill paint,keep in mind you cannot sand underseal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_feinted Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Ill try get some filler primer coz i need some for other areas and can look into sikaflex. I may try using the underseal but a real thin coat. If it looks like poo i can just scrape it off, repaint it. If it seems to do the job, bonus I already painted my sills in the underseal and i plan to paint over it with white. ill spray primer over the underseal, then paint white final coats. should stick fine. The car is far from getting a full paint job its just gonna get all the repair patches repainted to get wof'd and back on the road. anyone know a place around sth aucks, east tamaki to get some filler primer, just wanting some to brush on and sand etc. If they can mix up toyota white from a paint code that would be sweet cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 If its stone gaurd then its a different story, have used the stuff on my sills also, was wondering why you would want to put underseal anywhere apart from undercar, its smelly and messy as fuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 this question is for ke20 i didnt want to reply about this in your project thread so how do you find 2k compares to 1k,also whats the price diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Well, the paint I first used was 2k (Resene) which I hated, I couldn't get the metallic to sit properly but I think it was just the paint itself. Other brands may be better (Avenger will probably know) 1k then 2k clear is alot easier for a garage job IMO, You'll notice they do it this way on programs like overhaulin, probably because its easier to mask on when it dries up quick If you're doing a single colour thats not metallic I'd just go 2k paint and clear. You won't get runs with 1k either I've noticed, unless you be an idiot with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Not sure on price difference, depends fully on the brand. The first car I did was 2k and was 220ish iirc for the paint, mini paint (Debeer + Resene clear) cost me 400ish which was 1k greens (base + top), 2k white and clear, where-as the rolla was just straight blue, no clear (don't do that ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 so since im going for a non metallic white id go for 2k paint and 2k clear?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 dylan, check out the paint on my mk5, its autothane 1k white with no clear, cost me about $120 all up. it polishes up nicely, but looks good even without a polish, i never got round to giving my car a good cut/polish after i painted it because i was happy with the results straight outa the gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 dylan, check out the paint on my mk5, its autothane 1k white with no clear, cost me about $120 all up. it polishes up nicely, but looks good even without a polish, i never got round to giving my car a good cut/polish after i painted it because i was happy with the results straight outa the gun. what sorta gun did ya use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 cheap $100 gun, think the brand is "Wellmade" its suction fed etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Other brands may be better (Avenger will probably know) I think you no my answer 2k clear is good,however in different temperatures 1k rules supreme. dylan:For black,pick yourself up some 2k.PPG is good and reasonably priced. *I'l eleborate more on 2k.vs.1k tomorrow when i've got more effort* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.