mk5corty

Just about every pinto i've seen has a ruined rocker cover gasket, probably from constant tappet adjusting and failing to change the gasket.

Not really in a hurry but at my old flat i have two large home theatre sub cabinets, triangle ish shape, together form an almost square, approx 1.2x1x0.7 m. $150 brought to auckland or $75 each if you bring one. Can collect from your location in Auckland. Have tried numerous freight companies but their either charge out the ass or dont do personal goods.

I do both, when i do use paint stripper. Strip, rinse, blow with compressor, solvent, then wait for a while to make sure any water is evaporated, then por away.

Got a warrant and rego and once again raging round the streets, fucken yay. havent put the boot spoiler on yet, scored some ghia seats, put the rear ones in, am in the process of putting the front ones in now. They a way more comfy than the old ones, mean. Slight metal high pitch grinding sound, sounds like diff, plus the diff oil had a lot of tiny metal particles in it when i drained it. Ah well.

Trying to fill scratches with paint doesnt work very well, especially if your using 1k, tends to follow the scratch and trasnfer it through, cant judge without seeing it but if you have the primer based then keep sanding, if not chuck some more primer on, or if your using 1k you can hit it with 2 coats of colour, then sand with 600grit, hit with a 3rd coat of colour or until hiding then clear. If you just paint over them, more than likely they will be magnified.

if you dont need to wetsand, 2 will do, reasonable chance you will and 3-4 coats saves you from cutting through easily.

With ppg dulon 3 or 4 coats will see you right. Lay the first 2 or 3 down then leave overnight to dry, hit it with 600 grit then lay the last coat. If you notice it is quite orange peely on your clear then 3 coats, 600grit it, 4th coat then wetsand and compound as per usual, if your quite handy with the spraygun and dont need to compound, 2 coats can suffice.

I usually go for a degreaser and water mix and a toothrbush or bigger brush if its bigger. Works mint for me, never had a problem with dye.

Mean car boe, am sorely tempted to get one of these at the start of next year, especially cos if the engine shits out, the bay is plently long enough to incorporate an barra xr6t engine. Bet it sounds aws, should go pretty good to with like 285 horse.

oh man, can now join teh exclusive club, the box cortina club.

Mad boes, more oldschoolers near me, im just below the uni on the terrace.

Maybe try avenger he's a painter in the Tron.

Primer contains a large quantity of talc, which is excellent at absorbing water, think talcum powder. Getting all the shit paint off will be a bitch, i would look for a uv resistant epoxy primer, then just scuf it when the time comes, many people use matt black epoxy but the sun will fade it, just scuff, recoat, spray some primer to hide the colour and then apply colour.

Shit never even saw this ohwell, i would spray the metallic onto primer sanded with 600 grit minimum, metallic paints show sanding scratches well. Let the base dry partially between metallic and clear say an hour or two, although this really depends on if your using 1k or 2k. You can sand earlier coats of metallic if it has orange peel although it's not recommended, just make sure the clear goes on unsanded colour.

Did you get a new exhaust? exhaust drone? Is the carpet and sound deadning still in?

fuel lines or pump not getting the gas through?

Well i took my hp figures from wiki, The 2-valve DOHC 18R-G was produced from 1972 through 1974. Output was 110–145 hp (82–108 kW) at 6400 rpm and 131 ft·lbf (177 N·m) at 5200 rpm. It was also available in Japan-spec (The 1975 18R-GU) with 130 hp (97 kW) at 6000 rpm. The GR and GEU had more hp.

I havent seen a decent switched manufacturer conversion cost under 2 grand yet ( including engine). Doesnt mean there isnt any just all the extra bits add up quick, its easy to underestimate conversion costs.

Stock they can be either 110 or 130, dependant on engine. I havent heard of this conversion but if your going to go through the trouble of putting in another manufacturers engine unless i would put one in that would give me better hp to $$$, unless your doing it purely for cool factor. Or mod the 2l pinto with the money it would cost you. Likely you will need most of the conversion mods anyways, custom brackets mounts etc, exhaust, gearbox, driveshaft etc.

Yeah painted it myself, took bloody ages cos one of my compressors shat itself. Was planning on using a stripe down the side with GT in it, much like the FPV falcon stripes. have still got the orginal trim peices if i decided to go with that. Current tires still have about 80-90% tread cos i have hardly even got to drive the bloody thing haha.

Well shes been awhile, mostly cos i was at welly and the tina was in aucks in my garage. got some pics finally Nice ass, primo boot spoiler, orig ford, aws, plus got some brand spankers new taillights to go in. Pretty happy with the gloss, thats just after first compound, broke the pad so thats it for now. Badass art stz one with $40 digicam, chur.

found out the 4.4 leyland is actually wider than the 3.5 rover for those that are interested. The injection head with cams exhaust extractors and some porting usually makes around 200hp. Seen many different figures for rover v8's but what usually comes up is 160hp for p6, 170 for sd1's, 200 for leylands from Wiki: The Rover engine was heavier but stronger than the Buick engine, with a dry weight of about 170 kg (375 lb). It was first offered in the 1965 Rover P5B saloon, initially making 160 hp (DIN) (118 kW) @ 5200 rpm and 210 ft·lbf (285 N·m) of torque @ 2600 rpm on 10.5:1 compression.

yeah not likely to find one of them for cheap tho haha

YB is teh shit.

Rover v8 firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 not that unusual i didnt think, one of the two standard v8 firing orders 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 being the other.