mk5corty Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 1k = laqcuers and some acrylic enamels, no hardener used, it dries by solvent evaporation which means it is soluble by its solvent even after curing. 2k = urethanes mostly, uses an isocyanate hardner to make it insoluble after it has dried, therefore you cannot remove it with reducer or thinners. This is unless of course you guys are using 1k as single stage urethane and 2k as basecoat clearcoat system which i have heard before. It is generally not reccomended to mix different paint types, however i have heard of using hardener in 1k products to strengthen them. I use 1k because it contains no cyanide and is less dangerous, however as lacquer it is an inferior and outdated product and does not bond as strong or last as long as 2k. Theres allsorts of chemical crap with 2k urethanes as the molecules cross link to form bonds but i wont get into that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 What I'd like to know is what are the differences between lacquers, acrylic enamel, urethanes, acrylic urethanes etc Old cunts always ask me what paint I've used.. and I just don't know, I know my clear and the old blue I used were acrylic urethane though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Lacquer generally wont dry to a shine, unless its clearcoat. As a colour it is meant to be buffed to a shine, it is soluble when dry. Acrylic enamels when they use hardeners are insoluble when dry and WILL dry to a shine but the gloss is only on the top layer and sanding will remove it and it cannot be buffed back. Urethanes use a hardener and dry to a shine and can be buffed up. Unless is is the base coat of a base clear system where the base is weak and matte finish and the clearcoat with the hardener adds the gloss and strength. Anything that uses a catalyst will be more durable. There is also polyurethanes which are tougher versions of urethanes although sometimes the names are interchanged. Poly's are used on aeroplanes and the like, very hard to compound after it has properly dried as it is so tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Well, I may have asked about this before but anyway.. I've painted a panel or 2 on my sisters car and when it comes to cut & polish time, its all goes to hell.. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong as I'm using the same stuff as what I did the Colt with (which came out perfect) I'm cutting it back with 1200 to get out the orange peel then throwing on the polish and buffing away.. yet when I did the colt it started coming up shiny quite quick, yet with my shit buffer you can sit there for ages and it stays dullish, then put on hand glaze and it comes up shinier but.. it just doesn't come up glossy.. it just quite frankly looks shit http://cnb-host1.clickandbuild.com/cnb/ ... egoryID=63 ^^ I'm using one of these with the wool attachment thing, but it feels rather slow, where-as the one I used in the shop would throw half of the polish across the room I want to get it right so I can be confident when it comes to do the mini as at this stage I'd rather have orange peel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Thats a polisher, not a buff.Can get you a mint one just over $100 me-thinks.3M. Also use a foam pad,not wool for the job your doing.Are you using a cutting compound or straight polish? is the paint 2k with clear?,1k clear-over base? ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 I figured it did the same thing Just polish I think, spray painter said to sand it, buff the stuff in, then use hand glaze over top 1k paint, with 2k clear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 ive read a bit of this but there is so much to read. basicly what i wanna know is wether i should bare metal my wagon or not as it has the original paint on it and is straight as exept for the few parts where it has some cancer which is mostly just the sills and 2 spots round the back windows. by the looks of what ive read its not worth it i might as well just sand the "shine" of the original paint obviosly take it right back round the cancer, weld in, bog whats needed to make it smooth and then prime it. sound bout right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Yeah, no point going to bare metal unless its a show car, or you just want to be thorough. If its straight I'd do it how you just described Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 Yeah, no point going to bare metal unless its a show car, or you just want to be thorough. If its straight I'd do it how you just described or if your car is crazy cracked as fuck lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 yeh its straight as never been dinged paints lightly cracking but its only top layer from what i can tell but im no panel beater or paint shop person but looks as tho a sand would make it disappear. once i get a sander on it i guess ill know how far i have to go. also are you best of to re-primer the whole car after sanding back/fixing cancer or just primer cancer replaced bits and sand and respray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Primer the whole lot a few times, then block sand hardout till you get rid of high/lows, you can also do a guide coat (just mist on some black, so when you sand it away the black shows the low spots, any colour works though) Then do a final prime then sand it with 400-600 and spray away I should take some of my own bloody advice.. Guide coats fucking rule I've just realized after doing a side skirt that was prepped by a panelbeater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 hah guts to be buffing with that pos. I can buff faster by hand, buffed a whole car by hand in 3days, sore forearms hard. Anyways hit it with the 1200 then with 2000, makes it easier to buff. Some medium cut meguires cleaner-pro range ( can get from supercheap but not repco) on a good foam or wool pad, wool cuts faster. For finishing, swirl mark remover with a fine foam pad will bring it up mint, then hand glaze it, dont really need the hand glaze if you did it right tho it hides minor swirl marks. and to teh other guy, if there is micro cracks in the paint like spiderwebs, take the paint off, take it to original primer, i found this out the hard way, also get some masking tape and stick it on the car real good then pull it off, if any paint comes off then its fucken and you need to remove it, i also found this out the hard way. some 60 grit on a sander is good for stripping, lower is better if your good but can rip the shit out of good filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Some medium cut meguires cleaner-pro range ( can get from supercheap but not repco) on a good foam or wool pad, wool cuts faster. For finishing, swirl mark remover with a fine foam pad will bring it up mint, then hand glaze it, dont really need the hand glaze if you did it right tho it hides minor swirl marks.. no it doesnt,foams bestfor compoundingg.meguiers is shithoues tooo.stick to 3m or better ferecla is good.made in england etcc. sand wif 1200,buff with anyform of compound,den wax.soundind need a swirl marc remover./aWesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 twisted wool mop will cut much faster than foam, heard it from teh pros. Anywhos i find little difference between the meguires pro and 3m perfect it ranges and the likes. mezerna is apparently the best shizzle, dont get it over here i dont think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 twisted wool mop will cut much faster than foam, heard it from teh pros. Anywhos i find little difference between the meguires pro and 3m perfect it ranges and the likes. mezerna is apparently the best shizzle, dont get it over here i dont think. im a pro,doe this shit 6 days a weak wools two soft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 hers it straight from a pro detailer http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewt ... isted+wool for those too lazy "BEST PADS HEAVY COMOUNDING - If you really need to get aggressive, there's nothing like twisted wool" bah, spend like 6days a week on painting forums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Cheers guys, wool pad isn't working for me right now so I'll try foam. I've done it with 1200 final sand before (Colt) and it seemed all good. I'm using the stuff the spray painter gave me but don't know the brand cause he threw some in a random tin, but don't care cause I know it works good. (he = awesome paint jobs) Its just my technique is flawed Practice practice practice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 your buffer is shit lol. 2800rpm does it nicely. You could prob hand buff a quarter panel mint in about two hours. Get a polishing sponge or cloth and rub the compound left to right not in circles until it starts go dry, doing it that way means any swirl makes will be straight and only viewable from certian angles , then use your buffer to take the dried compound off. That was what i found most efefctive before i actually bought a proper buffer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 the other thing im curious bout is is some one able to give me a rough as estimate on what it would cost to get top coats done, i aint lookin for anything flash atm just a full respray in the cars original color, might be a bit far out for an answer but if any one else has had something similar done be appreciated to know the cost involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Do you mean price for you or for someone to do it. heres approx rrp on the products. primer: 100 colour:250-300 clear: 150 thinners or hardner will set you back another 50 or so. then sandpaper, filler, cleaner, tape, etc 50+ my repray cost me $500 for 4l primer, 5l clear, 4l colour,1lt of black and other crap but i got stuff at trade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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