Tiger Tamer Posted July 8, 2023 Share Posted July 8, 2023 When I painted the engine bay most of it turned out quite nice. Better than I thought it would. I did have trouble with fisheyes on the firewall in an area that still had original paint on. I had sanded and cleaned it with a degreaser and primed it and it all seemed ok. When the topcoat went on I got these fisheyes. I let all dry and harden up, sanded it back and cleaned it again several times and re-primed it and it looked good, but when the topcoat went on the fish were looking back at me again. There must be something in the original paint in that area causing it but why isn't it happening in the primer. There are going to be other areas I am going to paint like the boot that I don't really want to strip all the original paint off but I don't want this happening either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted July 8, 2023 Share Posted July 8, 2023 26 minutes ago, Tiger Tamer said: When I painted the engine bay most of it turned out quite nice. Better than I thought it would. I did have trouble with fisheyes on the firewall in an area that still had original paint on. I had sanded and cleaned it with a degreaser and primed it and it all seemed ok. When the topcoat went on I got these fisheyes. I let all dry and harden up, sanded it back and cleaned it again several times and re-primed it and it looked good, but when the topcoat went on the fish were looking back at me again. There must be something in the original paint in that area causing it but why isn't it happening in the primer. There are going to be other areas I am going to paint like the boot that I don't really want to strip all the original paint off but I don't want this happening either. There could be oil or grease in the seam above it that's leeching out. Not uncommon in engine bays Sometimes overdoing the prepsol can actually wick grease and oil out of seams If the base coat fisheyes again. Let it dry for about an hour till its dry to the touch and give it a scuff with some 400g then dust a few real light dust coats on the sanded area then one over the whole lot and clear it. Hopefully comes right 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 Yo. I would like some advice about treating steel with phosphoric acid. I have some Oakite 33 left over from when we did powder coating, I brushed some onto something half rusty and half shiny and left it, it pretty much sorted it out. However I imagine it would be best to rinse it and wipe it off, is that the case? If so with what? This is so whatever I do to the Fiat is going to last.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 Deoxidine instructions say wipe off with a clean damp rag before it drys. Then wipe with a clean dry rag or prepsol before paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 35 minutes ago, tortron said: Deoxidine instructions say wipe off with a clean damp rag before it drys. Then wipe with a clean dry rag or prepsol before paint Ok I just watched a vid of someone using it, it made sense. It looks like deoxidine is essentially the same thing as Oakite. I might mess with a panel and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morkster Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 ^ yes phosphoric acid needs to be washed off with water or meths before it dries 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 We use phosphoric acid regularly at work. Rinse with water because it's cheaper than meths but b quick with a prepsol and a scotch brite to clean the flash rust off. Doesnt takes a minit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 25 minutes ago, JustHarry said: We use phosphoric acid regularly at work. Rinse with water because it's cheaper than meths but b quick with a prepsol and a scotch brite to clean the flash rust off. Doesnt takes a minit So what is prepsol? Just a solvent? Wouldnt the scotch Brite expose more bare metal to rust up again? Also what happens with the phosphoric etc of there is still paint on there or should it all come off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 1 hour ago, ThePog said: So what is prepsol? Just a solvent? Wouldnt the scotch Brite expose more bare metal to rust up again? Also what happens with the phosphoric etc of there is still paint on there or should it all come off? Google prepsol. It's a wax and grease remover The scotch brite is for scrubbing the surface clean of any rust after rinsing with water. I would paint strip any paint off or use mechanical stripping methods. Phosphoric acid is for getting the rust and shit off Glasurit metal cleaner 360-4 is what you need to use to get the metal properly clean for paint if it's a good job that matters. It's like prepsol on steroids. Dont breath the fumes lol. Use that with the scotch brite and the metal will shine up brilliant clean silver with no impurities Once its prepped you need to paint asap. Like same day spec 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 @ThePog for example I used phosphoric acid to clean the tailgate skin for @RUNAMUCK ute He can supply a pic of before I got it and how it looks now. It has keyphos on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 I dont think I have any pics from before sorry.but it came up mint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 29 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said: I dont think I have any pics from before sorry.but it came up mint. Don't apologize Be better 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datlow Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 Surely they're all on your build Fred Bart... 3 1 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted July 15, 2023 Share Posted July 15, 2023 5 hours ago, Kerry-TGI said: Can zinc it spray be over painted with epoxy primer? Or if you used that on your welds you'd want to get it off first? Never paint epoxy over a rattle can product. If you've just got some overspray sorta stuff round your seams etc just clean it off. Most zinc rattle cans will wipe off with prepsol. Or thinners at the worst 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 The flattening agent is mixed in by the paint shop, there is some limit where it goes to shit so they are usually scared to add too much in. But if you get someone who will mix it up (or buy your own and test) you should be able to get it pretty flat in 2K. Fresh lacquer paint looks better in matt black but its not durable at all (it will stain and go chalky at some point), 2K single stage urethane by its nature has this plastic look to it so flattening it out it can still look funny but I have seen a few that look good (they probably use flat clear). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 as you say, perhaps actually getting a satin dark grey might get you where you want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted August 14, 2023 Share Posted August 14, 2023 21 hours ago, Kerry-TGI said: Where can I get a decent 2k matte black? Highly likely my ignorance but I feel like a matte black should be flat as fuck and almost a dark grey, where as the 2 I've tried have both been quite rich and dark, appearing to be more of a satin black. I want something that has a more faded look but don't know what colour I should be looking for, or whether my application is affecting the finish Glasurit do a matte black 2k. Out if the tin spec Not sure where you are so not sure who the dealer would be. In chch ultra paints are the glasi reps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted August 14, 2023 Share Posted August 14, 2023 8 hours ago, Spencer said: The flattening agent is mixed in by the paint shop, there is some limit where it goes to shit so they are usually scared to add too much in. It stops being paint if you add to much matting paste in. Glasi fo example is 40% max matting paste in the gloss 2k or It just doesn't dry. Not recommended to use any more then what the paint co recommends 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 5, 2023 Share Posted September 5, 2023 xylene/solvent 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 Yes it's oil in the pores of the metal Prepsol/wax and grease remover might get it out Reblast is your best option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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