Bellicose Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 8 hours ago, SOHC said: Its on a motorcycle witch was painted 30+ years ago, I just had to weld up a split in the guard. As above mate. Feather out the repair and dust on some lacquer primer first, if it doesn't fry up you should be ok to blast it on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 So, I'm spraying some Lucite LC400 1K acrylic laquer and it seems really 'thin' with limited coverage and very easy to get runs - much trickier than the 380S primer I put on before. Is this what I should expect? Thinned at 1:1 with spraying thinner. It's a cool day, but the paint is warm (keeping it my heated office) and I run the diesel heater in the garage between coats so it's not super cold in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Had a pay with the mixing ratio and it seems better. Can those DIN cups be bought in NZ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbie Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 there are a few place around with them, look up viscosity cup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 20 hours ago, Nominal said: Had a pay with the mixing ratio and it seems better. Can those DIN cups be bought in NZ? Yeah, 1:1 is far too thin for lacquer mate. Been 30 years since I played with lacquer but max 30% thinner rings a bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 21 hours ago, Nominal said: Had a pay with the mixing ratio and it seems better. Can those DIN cups be bought in NZ? Total body shop supplies has the plastic mixing cups with ratios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Some top coat lacquer I have sprayed is 1:1 reduction on the datasheets, meant to do 6+ coats to finish it. First couple go on real thin then cheese it on. If yours is like this you want to try dial it in better before doing it on anything final, I'd spray a whole test panel all the way through several coats and use it to dial things in. What comes out the gun gives you the feedback to get it right, just take the time (ages). Oh and give extra time between coats to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Thanks - I did a few more coats and some sanding before a couple of clears as I need to get this part back together and on the car before the coming weekend. I'm treating the whole project as a learning exercise, and I'm learning a lot so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Okay, so I got the paint on, tell me how I get some of it off in some place's,(wet/clour sanding?) without fucking the rest? it's ye olde enamel single stage no clean tractor paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 There is a way to sand down runs by covering the whole area with body filler. Then when you sand the filler away, the run is the high spot under the filler, so once you sand through the filler you should get to the run and it should evenly sand down to the rest of the paint. It would still be pretty easy to sand through the paint accidentally though. Disclaimer: saw it on youtube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 This one: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Fuck me. Who ever came up with that idea needs shooting in the face with a ball of their own shit. I'd bet my left one any one that does that WILL rub through. Just use a very small bit of wood with some 800 wet then 1500 wet. Could do 2000 then hand cut area with some good compound. Be sure to rub the top of the run and slowly bring it down to level. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 6 hours ago, Bellicose said: Fuck me. Who ever came up with that idea needs shooting in the face with a ball of their own shit. I'd bet my left one any one that does that WILL rub through. Just use a very small bit of wood with some 800 wet then 1500 wet. Could do 2000 then hand cut area with some good compound. Be sure to rub the top of the run and slowly bring it down to level. Sounds like the exact same thing though, except maybe that he started with 320? And without the fine filler to stop sanding through. Looks to work well in the video so are you saying the filler isn't necessary or will some how make it worse? If so, the 'gunman' needs to be told of the poo to face punishment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 He knows quite a bit of stuff and he's a good painter but there are many things he does that I shake my head at. The finer the starting paper the less chance of rub through, so I can't see the point in the bog because you're increasing the chance of stuffing it up. But I guess after 34 years in the game there will be a few things I don't agree with lol. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 I guess the bog is really just a big ass guide coat, so you can see what you're doing without going though the good paint in the surrounding area. the beast! I went down to the paint shop at got some 1000-1500 paper and polishing gunk, the old fulla there says I'll have to leave the enamel paint for about 3 months before I can sand and buff it out as it needs to be dry and hard all the way though to shine after buffing? Was hoping to sand and buff it before assembly, looks like I'm building a car this weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 What's a good underfloow and suspension component paint. Everything is getting blasted then Epoxy primed. Do the good ones have a slightly rubbery finish to absorb stone$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Does anyone have any experience with boat paint? Ive got a 6m fiberglass hull that needs re painting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 While paint questions are active, is buying a used Iwata of TM a good idea? Parts are available I know. http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/tools/airtools-compressors/spray-guns/auction-1364028351.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Depends on its treatment I guess. The iwata I got on there is great tbh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 the number 3 gun on the list the devilbis sgk/flg5 starts at about the 7min mark. for teh same money + freight for a new gun with all the parts cup tool etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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