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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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whats the deal with dropped beam axles on old as stuff/hotrods? is this legit? like oldshool heat the thing up put it in a huge press with a jig and heat treat it afterwards or something?

e.g. this type of thing

IMAG014.JPG

asked about this today, there are a couple of nzhra approved engineers who can do it, and they are the only ones who can for cert purposes. Dave Mcdougall is the one i can remember. one issue is the type of axle it is, the only jigs available will be for early ford, not other types

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asked about this today, there are a couple of nzhra approved engineers who can do it, and they are the only ones who can for cert purposes. Dave Mcdougall is the one i can remember. one issue is the type of axle it is, the only jigs available will be for early ford, not other types

so its not often done but may be possible and would require significant consultation for signoff?

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so its not often done but may be possible and would require significant consultation for signoff?

It's is fairly commonly done for early ford forged axles. The pics you posted are for leaf springs or something, so might be a bit harder to get done.

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It's is fairly commonly done for early ford forged axles. The pics you posted are for leaf springs or something, so might be a bit harder to get done.

yeah leaf springs, chevy 41-54? or thereabouts axle - initial investigations indicate they used the same front axles in most things of that period? the pics are from http://www.droppedaxles.com/ in the states. it looks like a bend and slight stretch and maybe puts a little extra negative camber (for racing lols)

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yo cletus, my cert plate says the engine config in my car is a inline 4, as far as im aware it has never had a 4cyl in it, could this likely be a f*ck up on the person that prints the plate? also can it be corrected without going for another cert? was done before the car came into my possession. also could vinz/vtnz be able to look up who certified it if i give them the cert number or rego etc?

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Do I need to be special to weld to my chassis?

Ie box section and shorten the rear legs and lower the front leaf mounts/ make shock mounting hoops on my hilux?

no qualifications needed, you may need to show your certifier you can weld though. youd be fine

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yo cletus, my cert plate says the engine config in my car is a inline 4, as far as im aware it has never had a 4cyl in it, could this likely be a f*ck up on the person that prints the plate? also can it be corrected without going for another cert? was done before the car came into my possession. also could vinz/vtnz be able to look up who certified it if i give them the cert number or rego etc?

can be sorted if there is some proof that the engine was never a 4 cyl.

lvvta could tell you who certed it if you give them the cert plate number, you cant order a replacement plate direct from them it has to be thru a certifier.

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kevlar or teflon is fine.

Awesome stuff, thanks for the reply! Also, while I'm at it, what is the main reason for rose joints / cheap aftermarket arms failing certs, and are their any special requirements for aftermarket tie rods ends as opposed to any other rose jointed end?

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can be sorted if there is some proof that the engine was never a 4 cyl.

lvvta could tell you who certed it if you give them the cert plate number, you cant order a replacement plate direct from them it has to be thru a certifier.

thank you sir, will look into this

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Awesome stuff, thanks for the reply! Also, while I'm at it, what is the main reason for rose joints / cheap aftermarket arms failing certs, and are their any special requirements for aftermarket tie rods ends as opposed to any other rose jointed end?

aftermarket tie rod ends- if they are stock replacements, no, if they change the geometry at all- bumpsteer check with cert.

main reason for knocking back rose/heim joints would be cheap nasty ones, brass lined, or ones that taper down thinner than the threaded part where they are pressed together, a lot of cheap china arms use crap joints which last about 7 minutes before developing play.

also some arms are a design cockup, eg they bind or hit on the body worse than the original ones do, or load a heim joint incorrectly, stuff like that.

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hi all. so I had this photoshop done ( thanks Dylan) and I reckon it looks fuggin great. iv had a look at the lvvta website and its a but confusing. it says " no " then it says I could have a metal stone guard.... if I made a grille out if stainless rod and kept coverage to less than 50% total do you think there is any way it could be legal?

other option is making the bits that cover the lights removable for wof time and driving at night

EFD00789-85EA-4E0C-9863-1E80ED0E8423-5596-000006B2090010F3.jpg

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