cletus Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 caliper brackets- you can weld them but has to be tig and crack tested. its better to make them from 1 piece if you can. especially if the tig is going to struggle to get enough penetration a different design may be a better idea I interested in the rules with welding on vechicles for certs etc. I see you have to pass a test for the lvvta tester on some things but not others etc but then a few mates iv talked to just took lots of photos or got things x rayed and it was good enough. Mainly for shortening a diff and rewelding all the mounts and adding say a base plate for an air bag who can do this? and what if something was done before you have owned. Also for welding up / fabricting engine mounts and gear box x member whats the go. oh and is i where to notch the chassis is it allright to take say a 30-40mm notch out and box up the remaining section to restrengthen in as id only need around an inch or 2 something similar to sheepers crown i suppose most welding on a vehicle can be done by anybody who can weld competently, and can be mig welded Some things are considered "critical" components ie brake caliper brackets, suspension arms, etc and have to be TIG welded and crack tested. you can do a chassis notch. best to talk to the certifier you plan on using about what their requirements would be 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmitsi Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Sweet as ill tig em up thanks cletus and yowzer for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Yep it is. Up to 27mm thick. Even if it is 4 stud converting to run 5 stud wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I think it's 20mm for spacers and 27mm for adapters. Might be the other way around.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I think 4 to 5 is fine, not so sure on 5 to 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 30mm for adaptors, 20mm for spacers. 4 to 5 would only work if the 2 studs that end up really close have enough material between them to be strong enough. changing the stud pattern is a better way of doing it if you can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Couple of questions I hope you can answer, Id talk to the certifier im going to use but hes out of the country til November Engine mounts-Iv cut them off the chassis and they need shifting forward about 20mm. Is it fine to just weld them back on with a weld top and bottom like factory or do all 4 sides? Bucket seats- Seats are narrower than the rails so need to make up mount for them. Is there a minimum thickness for the flat bar used? Can the mounts be welded to the rails or do they have to be bolted to them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Clint-o-sarous-rex, I have been in brief contact with the cert guy I intent to use and thought I would pester you rather then being a noob and continuing to bug him. He mentioned using the correct form-set for crack testing of welding stuff (spring perches on front struts). Is this something I can find and give to the crack testing dude to fill in, or is it something the certifier provides and then I need to get it done as per his requests? And secondly he has given me the requirements for driveshaft lops and mentioned 50x60mm plates on top of the floor pan for the bolts, do these have to be welded or can they just be essentially act as large washers? Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 50mm x 5mm 150mm or less from the joint, minimum 4x m10 bolts with big washers (maybe 25mm diameter but im not sure exactly) another question, if its a two piece driveshaft but the front piece has a rubber guibo/doughnut connection and hanger bearing at the rear, do you need a loop at/near the guibo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 wat? that doesn't answer my question. (Im aware of the rest of the requirements) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 you wrote 50x60 which is a typo I guess, but yes it can be bolted. pretty sure there is a reasonably clear MSpaint diagram in this thread somewhere of the whole loop system I think there might be a form for the crack testing on the lvvta website if you look hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Not a typo, thats what cert man asked for. As in 4 50x60mm plates on the top side of the floor for the bolts (which hold the loop in palce) to go through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Oh OK, was not so clear to silly me then. I will take this opportunity to advocate for more use of ms paint diagrams 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Couple of questions I hope you can answer, Id talk to the certifier im going to use but hes out of the country til November Engine mounts-Iv cut them off the chassis and they need shifting forward about 20mm. Is it fine to just weld them back on with a weld top and bottom like factory or do all 4 sides? Bucket seats- Seats are narrower than the rails so need to make up mount for them. Is there a minimum thickness for the flat bar used? Can the mounts be welded to the rails or do they have to be bolted to them mounts- what engine and what car? probably ok if you are replicating the factory deal but may need strengthening if it has heaps more power or if its a much heavier engine seats- make sure the flat bar doesnt flex. if the seat mounts are in a lot further than the rails, then you might need 10mm bar, but if the seat mounts are very close to the rails you might get away with 3mm. welding is ok if its strong enough with gussets where needed etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Clint-o-sarous-rex, I have been in brief contact with the cert guy I intent to use and thought I would pester you rather then being a noob and continuing to bug him. He mentioned using the correct form-set for crack testing of welding stuff (spring perches on front struts). Is this something I can find and give to the crack testing dude to fill in, or is it something the certifier provides and then I need to get it done as per his requests? And secondly he has given me the requirements for driveshaft lops and mentioned 50x60mm plates on top of the floor pan for the bolts, do these have to be welded or can they just be essentially act as large washers? Cheers! the NDT request form is filled out by the certifier so he can give you one washers on top of the floor- dont need to be welded. i usually make a 100x50 washer and tack weld the bolts to it so you can take the loop out without having to remove all the carpets etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 50mm x 5mm 150mm or less from the joint, minimum 4x m10 bolts with big washers (maybe 25mm diameter but im not sure exactly) another question, if its a two piece driveshaft but the front piece has a rubber guibo/doughnut connection and hanger bearing at the rear, do you need a loop at/near the guibo? yes rubber/universal/cv joint all need loops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 mounts- what engine and what car? probably ok if you are replicating the factory deal but may need strengthening if it has heaps more power or if its a much heavier engine seats- make sure the flat bar doesnt flex. if the seat mounts are in a lot further than the rails, then you might need 10mm bar, but if the seat mounts are very close to the rails you might get away with 3mm. welding is ok if its strong enough with gussets where needed etc Car in question is a hilux, going from a 3Y to a 1GGE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 mean Maori mean. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownin round Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 how are rims measured for wof and cert purposes ie how do they tell the difference between a proper inch rim an one the is a 3 inch and 6 inch lip with around a half inch centre between? ans same with offset im not asking what rules are butsay the rim was 5mm more negative than allowed on a 16x9 would it be picked up on or not? assumming 20% of a 9inch rim is 45mm and offset is minus 50-55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 So um sorry for this again, but just so I understand. Weld up custom coilovers. Fit to car. Book cert. Fail cert on crack testing. Get bit of paper. Remove struts. Send to crack tester. Pass crack test. Refit struts. Present paperwork to certifier. Pass cert! Or is it like ring a certifier and then get paperwork before booking cert/ fitting to car? Sorry I'm confused as to how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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