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Is that the new plymouth jokers? They are down the street from work. We have had mostly good results from them at work. Have used Robinson instruments with success also. Seem like knowledgeable barries with poor website skillz

Finally got a new alternator, an Aeroflow AF4273-1100 100A I'll be hooking this up '3-wire' which uses the warning light as an exciter and removing the stock external regulator. This gives me more ergs for upgrades later and the 3-wire hookup apparently makes it come on charge quicker. I may need to check the warning light later to see if it has a bypass resistor as without this the alternator will fail to come online if the bulb is blown. I was originally going to use the stock wiring but decided to bin it as it was untidy and would not carry enough current if I start to draw more than the stock power. The car also does not have alternator or battery fuses so I might add them later too but I want to work out a tidy install before I do that. I got it wired up on the bench and then looked at the car. First I took out the old regulator so I could work out what wires to remove They were buried in the main loom and used a wired molded plastic thingo you can just see in the last photo. Pain in the arse as I couldn't separate the wires without cutting this off. The loom was wire spaghetti so I also removed all of the wires from the started solenoid which is pretty much used as a positive terminal for everything. the wires I have are Black and yellow - power supply to fuse box Yellow - ammeter red - ammeter Red and blue - Starter switch Brown - odd extra wire to the solenoid that shorts it out. Was disconnected but can't quite work out what it does. Something to do with the coil and starting but not needed Black and red - ? Orange - regulator (removed) I could have thing wrong, the info online is a bit iffy and it changes with the year. I think the red/green wire from the regulator is the warning light but I can't confirm that. Might need a battery and a spare pair of eyes.

I would start off with that new fuel filter, you may have sucked in a bunch of crap from the tank. If that is OK fuel pressure would be the place to look. The connection to the vacuum source is to help regulate pressure correctly when the vacuum is high.

Another go at the fueling realised had base pressure wrong when I calculated it.... Re ran the calculation made very little difference to ms/g like 01ms so fudged it bumped it down 5ms. While i was In there I toggled off the EGR and set it run off a single narrowband sensor which I think I'll re fit next to the wideband as it's only 12 months old and car runs nice on these. Started up no longer stinks of fuel and started much easier. Now to let the car get up to temp and let the trims sort the rest out think im in ball park now. Also figured out a definition file glitch which was stopping me reading data on Tunerpro could flash in fine but information coming in was wildly inaccurate 28000rpm 1200c on inlet air temp. Pft

Only a Morrie, don't mention the hills

hope the car u gunna make her push, isnt too heavy

Thanks, talked to Auto Instrument Services who our mechanic suggested. I need to count the speedo cable turns while pushing the car 50 meters, wif is going to love helping with that,

Haven’t used them in 8 years but they they had a fast turn around and good price, they were really good at the digital speedos like in the soarers

This sounds terrible. Count me in!

Anyone used Robinsons for speedo calibration? OK? Timely service? Their website doesn't inspire confidence, but maybe they are better at doing things than building websites.

High chance I can make this and will confirm.

If you want a contact that has alot to do with barras in jetboats, he has installed ALOT and setup as raceboats and marathons etc. autosprky and very switched on fella. just dont be one of those guys that just ring him and suck dry on info info not buy stuff him LOL.

electronic pedal in a jetboat? barra tb has it as standard, and the old mechanical arrangement is absolutely rubbish,

Looking at the lvvta chip lookup page the cert is registered to the vin not the plate, my plate isn't even listed under vehicle details.

That’s why it also has the vin number on the tag

What's the go when a car with a cert gets new numberplates? Not when the plates it had when it got the cert have lapsed but if it gets changed to/from a personalised plate. Saw a car on the tard this morning that has a cert for seatbelt mounts but the personalised plate rego on the cert plate doesn't match the personalised plates on the car. The ad goes on to say that the plates on the car don't go with it and that it will have a standard issue plate at time of sale. Is the cert still legal or does it technically need to be redone with the new rego number even if nothing else has been changed?

It's not legal to do anything other than clean them with soap and water

How legal is it to “resto” my old white license plates rather than pay to get them re-made with the new font white plates? by resto I mean colour match the metallic grey-white colour and respray it with the numbers Matty B. It doesn’t have the security watermark thingy. already hammered out a lot of the dents, feeling like a bit of a Barry now.

Cool. I've just made a 'acme mount jig 2000', got my 5mm base plates bolted in and will pop to town for some 4mm plate.

I've assumed the 'ding hotel?

Oooh, that one is interesting, the cylinder being shorter than the res might help too, coz the main interference is the end of the cylinder vs the rocker cover (now I'm questioning if I can modify the rocker cover)

Don't drive with the handbrake on and you'll be fine

Nope, there's no minimum thickness, the design of the mount bracket is more important IMO than thickness. 4mm would be fine if the design is right. Even 'reputable' manufacturers get the design bit wrong...

@cletus Is there a minimum thickness of steel required for engine mounts - the parts that bolt to the engine. I've made mine from 3mm steel and but for adding an extra gusset they are finished. I don't see them failing (each one carries circa 50kg static weight) However I have started making a new pair, mainly so I can move the bobbins and cross member away from the engine by another 5mm so avoiding any chance of annoying knocks on bumpy roads. The base that bolts to the engine is 5mm. But to build the rest in 5mm will be tricky and I feel total over kill. Will 4mm be OK. It's thicker steel than I've seen on most oem mounts. Ive looked on the lvvta site and can only find this.. Nothing about minimum thickness? An engine-mounting system in a low volume vehicle must be of good design and construction, must position and support the engine correctly, and must be securely attached.

For a change of pace I am doing some bodywork. After the louvre pressing the bonnet was in a bit of a state from previous paintjobs so it required a fair bit of work. It's presently in the first coat of primer so I'll give it a bit of a tickle with some sandpaper before doing a final coat of primer. This first coat will just make it easier for me to see where needs more work. Also dug out the spare GT lid I've been hoarding which will help the rear radiator get some much needed air.