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So after hours of looking through parts catalogues the w210 gearbox appears to be the same internally as the earlier w126 box just with a different rear housing. The guy I got this gearbox off has another gearbox with speedo drive. Hopefully I'll be able to exchange it, if not no worries

This is potentially a long way around a fairly small problem. I've been using my honda logo on the track a bit recently and have realized it has a lot of under steer. Rear sway bar helped but really need to stiffen the front springs. Current front springs are 3kg. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a spring that has similar dimensions. Nor have I been able to find a similar style strut that would suit the current configuration. What I EXPERIMENTED with so far to try and resolve this, is a set of honda fit gd3 coilovers with 65mm ID spring. Spring rate options and heights are now endless. They have the standard two bolt at the bottom mounting so that requires the honda fit knuckles which are surprisingly close match to the logo. Using the fit ball joint pressed into the logo bottom arm the logo axle slides into the fit hub. (They use the same bearing so will press out fit hub and use logo hub instead) The problem I have now is the tie rod location is about 40mm lower. So my question is.... FIT ^^^ VS LOGO^^^^ Q. What are my legal options for spacing up tie rod ends? Any suggestions would be great. Even if it means a completely different path to get the same results. I understand i will need cert. Please note: Logo tie rod already mounts on top of existing knuckles so can flip it over. Thanks.

lol true, the sensor is after the thermostat so would have read nothing haha didn't think about that. Maybe I should run without thermostat and see what happens. I did look into EFI stuff.. probably need about 5-7k to get it going. I'm willing to struggle more before that. The car isn't overheating.. that I know of. No steam coming out of the exhaust which might indicate head gasket, I haven't checked the oil so don't know if it's mush but also there wouldn't be water in there if there's no water in the engine so probably doesn't help. Haven't done compression test. True I think it's not pulling as much vac, I need to order a proper vac tester and try get idle working so I can confirm it

I got my throttle pulleys machined down to a smaller size, so they can open the throttles all of the way (Thanks Dad!) So this is all now working GREAT. and it's super snappy. So I started doing some tuning to try figure out the area just off idle, and why its such a bag of crap. I found that adding considerably more ignition timing helped a lot, and increasing injection timing to around 600deg (usually 400) However, at a fairly early stage I managed to blitz one of my ethrottle motors with about 100 amps too many haha. It still worked, but smelled funky. Well, it ended up crapping itself. So I've ordered another one but it's still a few weeks away which is annoying. Since I couldnt do anything else meaningful for that stuff, I figured probably a good idea to take all of the exhaust completely off and check it. I found a worst case scenario leak for my extractors on both sides. There were signs of a small leak coming from somewhere between the 3 pipes, up the middle of them. Blargh! Impossible to get to this to fix it without cutting everything up. I was fretting about it for longer than it actually took to fix. I cut off the collectors just slightly up past the 3x pipes. Then fully welded both halves, flattened it off, then welded back together. No more leaks and it solved what one of the ticking noises from the motor was. Even if these extractors eventually crack or something. I'm still absolutely stoked to have made these myself. My new fuel rails turned up, but I havent had them machined yet. But fits a lot better. Given the available space I think I'm gonna give up on having a front feed airbox. So thinking dual sides instead. I guess these could both rejoin around the front and grab some air from on top of the radiator. Or I could have air intakes behind the headlights, and go back to a full height radiator. Which probably isnt a bad plan. I cant fit the entire thing on my printer but I can do half at a time. So just banging one out to test fit. 2GRFSE Scheming "Since I am doing this, may as well do this" Since I need a custom rod for the 2GR destroke scheme. Has made me consider piston options. The factory piston is typical Toyota stuff, fairly big and chunky/strong. But for high rpm the lighter the better... No point in reinventing the wheel if something else already exists? I found a 94mm piston from a 400cc quad bike that runs 10k rpm from factory. Cheap and easily available, and nice and light! It has a 22mm pin so might even fit the 2GR rod (apart from that the rod is too short) So I've ordered one of these to test fit and see what sort of compression ratio will be achievable. A destroked 2GR doesnt end up tooooooo far off the geometry of the Opel Calibra DTM car which was absolutely hectic. I wonder if you could grind the journals down to lose another 9mm stroke out of it... Would only need 4.5mm taken off one side I think? Just to be 100% clear though, none of the above are detracting from getting the car onto the dyno ASAP! Once my ethrottle motor turns up, its ready to go. 2GR Destroke comparison for future scope creeping:

Yeah I am thinking later on I will probably do an X pipe and 2x pipes to the back. All of the good sounding 2GR MR2s are X pipe and 2 pipes to the back. However, in the fairly immediate future I just need to consolidate what I'm doing and get the car to a drivable state. The current exhaust is good enough to get the car onto the dyno and so on. I'm keen to put down a baseline number, then put big cams in, then see how it's going. I've been very lucky that Stu has loaned me his tig setup over the last long while, but he needs it back to make some progress on his own projects. So no more exhaust stuff for now. So I'll be putting a tig setup into the budget at some point. Super 5000% glad that I persisted with it and can now weld alright. Invaluable skill.

And flat motors can benefit too as I have found out I figure its always going to be dependent on many other parts of the puzzle but if I was to muck about with another Mazda v6 I'd be doing two twins all the way to the back with an x pipe included into the sysytem. My Viva v6 merged just after the gearbox into a single all the way back and I now feel that cost it a lot of the nice V6 sound it could have had. Certainly muffled it down @Roman is there room for you to run two pipes back?

Try @Flauski @sheepers

Good point, I was thinking if no coolant was flowing then it wouldn't read accurately either. Ive driven engines short distance without coolant (didnt realise due to where the leak was) and had the guage not read correctly.

Need to fix the monster truck ride height next

@mlracing.co.nz If you had no coolant in the engine your temp sensor wouldn't have read it was overheating as they need fluid to read correctly. In regards to the carbs, personally id be looking at efi options but thats just me 😛 Have you done a comp test on this motor? If you have issues from overheating (ie headgasket) is it possible the 2nd carb isn't drawing as much because the cylinders that are closest too it aren't pulling as much vac? Note im useless with carbs but just a thought

your temp problem could be the sender unit. the resistance that the gauge need to see to read in the middle of the sweep is not a common value and getting a sender that reads the correct resistance value for a given temperature is pretty hard to find now. you may be chasing a problem that isnt there.

Someone wanted me to make that knife but then never got back to me, still needs hardening and grinding, also made a few spoons

You are welcome to park it at the my little farm (under a camera & no one comes here) & grab a spare vehicle to get to and from as desired.

To distance my brain from carb life for a while I decided to look into another thing that's been bugging me. The weird thing about this car is it's never got up to temperature, well at least it never seemed to get past the first little line on the gauge. Because of this I've always wondered if the thermostat was working properly and today I took apart some of the system to check it all. Once I took the hoses off it became clear that there was a thermostat problem, however it was the opposite to what I was expecting. This thing is jammed shut. I was expecting one to either be jammed open or not there at all. This might be the original (or very old at any case) thermostat, so definitely due for replacement. Also abundantly clear that there's been no water circulating in the engine for some time as the coolant that came out of the radiator was green, not mud. This got me wondering.. has there ever been any in there since I've owned it? How long has there not been water circulating ? I have actually taken this car to some events in the not so distance past and the temperature never moved then either. Does this engine somehow have the power to never overheat? This radiator has seen better days but it never leaked from memory so I don't think it was blocked and stopping flow. That said I might get it reconditioned or replace it anyway for peace of mind. As well as replace the radiator hoses as they looked pretty second hand. I'll also be bypassing the heater core so the hoses along the top here are being removed. So now I'm thinking I need to get new thermostat, pipes, some block off caps, a few gaskets and perhaps I should check the water pump as well.. it's probably not been doing a whole lot.

Kits sure ain't cheap anymore! Kmart used to flog Airfix 1/72 stuff for about $10 and The Warehouse got some obscure kits that were decent quality for about $15, even up to 1/48 scale. What is interesting is the paint etc is roughly the same price as it was 30 years ago.

A friend in Auckland has a 2MZ for me, just have to organize a time to grab it. Been sick with flu last few weeks though so not much going on. Still waiting on an ethrottle motor to turn up before I can carry on with much else.

It is pretty cool eh, he is a regular at the taupo events too. Miss 5 must have been under instruction to not let me linger anywhere too long. But i did crap my pants at the price that kitsets have come up to, or probably have been for ages but i havent noticed. Rc boats for the kids is a good thing they do each year too, 2 bucks for 5 minutes is pretty good.

Got the fan mounted properly. waiting to see what water pump, top outlet etc can get hold before weld on tabs to mount in car. as may have to relocate the top pipe. Redone the tab on clutch pedal. so clutch master should be good to go Been making a new 2-1 section on headers specific to this car. Was going to use what was left of the test setup as starting point. but needed to gain a little more length, to get the correct length, before it got to the spot for the first muffler. so started from scratch my normal stainless place stopped selling the size i need for the 2-1 section, so the pipe is some crappy china stuff. which sucks to weld due to wall thickness being all over the shop. but got it done. will see how long before it cracks. i may change the flange for slip joints if has issues Somehow it all worked out after all that testing, that the correct length just happens to fit perfect in the car. the first muffler will go almost directly after the megaphone. If the 4-2 section wasn't the loop design, would have gone straight past the spot for the muffler. which would be a bad day. as need to have all of them to shut up a na 4age. 2-1 length is just under 700mm long

@Roman did you track down a 1mz crank?

The coalmine train was at the Cambridge show last year.

Couldn't get many pics past the amount of people. Was some very good dioramas and a working coalmine trainset including above and below ground windows.

What a barryfest!

I haven't worked on this for aaaaages since the Galaxie arrived and I've been focusing on that. But I need to start making some progress on it because we would like to go camping at New Years. So today I got out there and cut out the floor. Then I jacked it up high to get ready for replacing the drawbar. I jacked the front up with the jockey wheel and put axle stands under the front of the chassis. I already had some stands under the back, but thought I would jack it up a little higher in the bum. Stuck the Jack under it, and it flexed the whole bloody thing so much that one of the semi-detached front corners let go and the whole fucking then felt like it was going to collapse. This thing is so terrifying to work on, I have to think so hard at every step whether what I'm about to do will make it cave in. In positive news, there is no rust in the chassis.

so I put the cam back in Have Advanced it by 4 degrees to bring the powerband a little lower in the rev range to compensate for the 2.6 diff . so the plan is to build the car to match the cam .

Made some center caps off aliexpress bits for about 10 bucks long wheel nuts are yuck ill get to those soon