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The wagon has arrived and has been taken down to compliance. Going to be waiting for a big list of things I think but I knew that going into this project. So far I know the car needs a tune, needs some bushes replaced in the front as it was floating a bit on the road. Exhaust needs to be done properly from the headers back, a patch of rust in the rear wheel well needs sorting and the brakes need adjusting.

Depends if you want real world or kinda close. Also depends on if they can figure out good setup time allowances, tools, and the job in the machine. How many ops? allow hr per setup and hr per programme, plus materials ( allowing extra material for 1st off and getting the setup/tool heights-lengths and programme 100% correct). and then divide by total qty required. then allow $2 per minute of cut time. should get you rroooooughly close enough. whats a shop rate now? 120 /hr? depending on machine. 2 3 4 or 5 axis can double easy. But should give close enough to learn, a heavily programme and setup time cost compared to 1 or 3, 5 items cost allllllllot more than 10 20 50 off. but tool path length varies so much and either high speed machining or slower more traditional tools changes everything. soooooo its kinda not really possible unless you can specify those variables. depends on how clever an in depth you want to go with m/min, Ae/Ap etc etc how clever are ya kids? i used to have a number of these costing spreadsheets. might have to fire up the old laptop if it still goes.. it wasnt clever, still needed you to input the material cost, operation time, ( inc part change over ) how many ops, qty but you need to know how long shit takes. etc etc but yes you can easily see how much something costs ya

Good idea, what would some ball park figures for setup and cut time be? Ponoko is something I used years ago but had forgotten about, thanks @h4nd

Problem most likely solved my friends. Those suggesting fuel were correct. The lift pump body wasn't tightened down properly. That and perhaps some restriction through the sediment filter was starving the engine of fuel. Noticeable power increase now, but I am still going to check valve clearances when I get a spare afternoon. Thanks all. Really appreciate the guidance. I am starting to like diesel engines. These old ones are refreshingly simple to work on once you understand them

Can you just build them a spreadsheet based on setup cost + material cost + cut distance/time? Put some good factors in there to play under promise/over deliver?

I'm looking forward to L15B becoming cheaper and more affordable - as I suspect they will become a great swap option once ecu tech catches up

Yeah if you aren't going crazy then stock block is OK, you need to put another 4 grand aside for a set of darton sleeves if you want to go wild.. and then youd net far better results with forced induction... that's the downside of most na engine builds, the turbo option is just so much easier to make reliable power. Stock b18cr go alright with a gearset, but not going to set the world on fire.

I have often though about doing B20 before I went Turbo I got put off by cylinder wall cracking and for the effort involved a well built b18 will make nearly as much jam

ponoko

Cummon Ritchie, You know you want to fit three spoon engines with MoTec exausts.......

Would a window wiper motor give you the agitation you need without reversing? I have an external control module for a wiper somewhere, which has adjustable intermittent function.

Haha nah nah this car's destiny is to remain fairly close to stock with a suite of period-spec bolt on bits. More concours than racecourse.

Could come down to setup. For a water trap to work the air needs to cool a bit so having at it compressor is a waste of time. If the compressor is working it's arse off too, that will be creating more heat which won't help. If you can have the trap a decent distance from the compressor it will give the air a chance to cool a little and could help it work better. Depends how you have it setup really. I'm sure local compressor suppliers will have traps available. When I got mine from Marquip they had all the bits available. Probably just reselling aliexpress bits, but still available.

Oh man, I'd be putting the stock b series aside and sliding a nicely fettled b20 vtec, with a b18 engine tag on it back in there.. the engine tags cut off pretty easily (to make your b20 magically into a b16 or b18)with some patient hacksawing.. well apparently

Cheers for the link, I'll do some research on using the ULN2003. Have PM'd.

Are there any local suppliers that do inline filters/regulators that aren’t crap but not too expensive? I have a black ridge SCA one and it’s not doing its job May just have to order an inline single stage and one that goes just before your gun/tool at the other end of the air line from Spray Guns Direct. $100 shipped from the UK

Uses a little oil, and occasional smoke but nothing serious (for a B series anyway). Just keen on getting everything as close as I can to minty spec/I'm bored and currently have no car projects as such.

I don't really need it...... lol Basically i want a watch cleaning machine, but not pay watch cleaning machine price considering it's basically what I just described. I see there's a "kiwi cleaner " on the market now that presumably someone in nz has come up with Lo9king at the fancy ones, they have a small.ultrasonic cleaner as well as a heater. Takes the cleaning cycle from 5min to 30 seconds the literature says. I think I'd use a cheap one that fits a mason jar Can buy those little mesh holders on aliexpress, or little tea strainer things that could go in something

@tortron How quickly do you need it? Would be a sweet Technology project for a student... Next question - is there a (preferably NZ based, actually or not) company that does CNC machining or routering with an online quote function? I'd like to be able to use it with students, but would rather not waste companies time on pie in the sky dreams...

Looks great! Whats the reasoning behind planning a strip down.. Is it down on compression, or smokey? I found the stock breather system lends itself to putting quite a bit of oil into the inlet manifold when at high revs with the throttle closed.

I think my friend had similar if not identical issues to what you're facing re the TPS and fuel pump. If you want to PM me about it I can put you two in touch. The adapter boards went through a few revisions and did need some work to get every feature going as expected. While you're in there you should do the ULN proto board stuff for the tacho, saves from having to "do it tomorrow" for years... Not that I'd know about that? https://speedyefi.com/ulns-and-pullups-and-launch-oh-my/

I've put some brand new Tein Mono Sport dampers in, tweaked the ride height and it's back on my fav set of wheels for now. Waiting in the ceiling is a lip, wing and carbon mirrors from Mode Parfume/Exceed that I just need to sack up and get painted/attach to the car. I note I also have a small oil leak from somewhere that I'll need to find, but I am getting a little keen on pulling the engine out for a rings and bearings refresh/clean everything up all spiffy like.

I couldn't find the receipt but found them at resto supplies. Seems a better price than other places that sell them. They are not cheap, but they work well. I just wish I had bought one two cars ago. Brake Tubing Flaring Tool (restosupplies.co.nz)

I want, what is basically a small mixer, Spinning at about 300 rpm, and changing direction every say 15 seconds I can sit there with a drill I suppose, it only has to run for about 5 minutes at a time, but the reversing is a bit fiddly Maybe something like an electric screwdriver and a timer circuit to switch polarity of the motor It doesn't have to spin much mass, maybe 100g, size of a jam jar sort of thing

ohhh u went THAT deep lol. well good luck with that haha