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I bet it'll do 8k.

That's applicable to a lot of cars these days tbh. I miss the days of the JDM 280hp gentlemen agreement, now it's a race to make faster and faster cars that you just can't use on the road. I have a real love/hate relationship with Subarus. Owned a few, love driving them, but owning them scares me due to the ever-looming unreliability. My STI Type R was a beast.

Congrats on sorting it out. Now I want a video of it singing away at 8000rpm - which I note is where your rev limit needle is...

Sorted the overheating issue. Thankfully with the first fix. That was to swap the booster pump upside down so the outlet was at the top. Wasn't too tricky. Just extended the wiring and welded on a bracket to hold the pump. I made the wires quick connect incase I want to put in the bigger pump which I'll likely need for the heater. The car actually ran very cool. I bled the car with the bum in the air and in the morning I'll check the fluid level. It needs a flush anyway. Below you can see the temp gauge and it has hardly left the starting mark. By this time yesterday she was blowing steam and the gauge was pushing 100 degrees. The other thing I did was add some basic mesh filters. I still haven't sorted out a custom filter yet but I'll get around to it. Super frustratingly there is a vibration over 50mph. It is minor but can deffo feel it. I don't remember it being there before so what I'll do is take off the intermediate engine mount I made and see if it's still there. I don't think it's something that would stop LVV but I want it to be right too. It really really needs a wash. I ordered some new door rubbers so as soon as they come in I'll give it a decent bath.

This is 100% true, my mate jas has had a killer wrx since the early 2000s, ra with built motor,dog box and good shocks was a monster on the road and ran 11.8s all day. Was still on the ra wheels so people thought it was stock

I think I am leaning more towards the 2GR-FSE just because it's a newer engine and it has 314hp at standard which is more than enough for the wagon. Plus if I want to go a little nuts the TRD Supercharger off the Aurion would be pretty awesome. That's further down the track though.

geez that old rally highlights/coverage brings back the memories

I'd have to counter that by saying our generation is obsessed with making heaps of power which has ruined a lot of really good 90/00's cars. If it does everything else well (diffs, gearbox etc) I don't think a GC8 needs more than 300hp which open deck will handle OK with a good tune. Diffs probably have the biggest influence on the balance in a 4wd car. Alternatively, the later model semi-closed deck S207 blocks are good for 400-450hp are also another good option. A few years ago they cost approx $4500 for an assembled long-block from Subaru so pretty cheap option. Dad's GRB Targa car runs one of these and it will peel your face off between corners. I don't think a Subaru needs 500hp+ to be fit for purpose, the beauty of them is the driving dynamics for attacking the corners (how they dip, dive & transfer weight). This was even evident back in group A days, where Toyotas had all the HP and smoked Subaru on open events, but the Subaru shined in the tighter stuff (check out coverage from 95 NZ rally Motu as an example). My experience with this car is that Subaru did a great job of transferring this pedigree into their road cars. For a production model, this wasn't really rivaled until Evo 6.5 onwards where they nailed the AYC setups.

I just run my air hose over a rafter from the compressor and the water separator near the gun end. Not sure if the rafter thing does anything but makes it easy to get the hose out of the way when I'm done to hang on the wall.

Close ratio gears make every performance-orientated car 100x better! Might need to bring to your place next time so we can find some corners... it's crazy how much slowing down you don't have to do with lightweight.

Got taken for a blat in this earlier in the week and oh boy is it rapid. Such short gearing, just comes on boost with all the revs and just keeps going through gears at pace. 10/10 would trade again, makes me wish for more close ratio gears in my life.

All good mate. Toyota make some great engines so the world is your oyster with this really.

And as of yesterday this project (and my 850) are on the market. Financially and time wise we cannot afford to do anything on it. It’ll be on marketplace once out of the storage unit. Sadface.jpg

I have a little press tool for reforming busted door lock holes if you want to use it. It remakes the wee ring that's pressed into the steel if it's been busted out

If anyone is wondering why I'm worrying about rolling guards etc, this thing has had 2 new guards stuck on rear at some stage they did a real nice job but didn't trim back the inside lip after fitting them so even stock wheels touch occasionally with a trailer on or passengers going in driveways. Just a tidy up and creating a little extra room at same time. Its going to squat a bit harder now so I better fix this before any new tyres go under it especially my slicks.

must be a twin, I havent ventured that far in it yet

For anyone looking, diff measurement from backing plate to backing plate is around 1220-1225mm. A MK2 Escort is about 1225mm as well. Some firewall /wheel well holes plugged up with much help, a work in progress: Some locks fitted, passenger and boot lock. One of the POs had welded a plate behind the lock holes to patch them, absolute bloody PITA to remove. We've gotten there in the end, drivers side to go. Annoying missing a door lock rod connecting everything so Ill have to fashion one from some 3.5-4mm wire.

Hadn't realized it was a link SMH!!

2GR sounds pretty rad

I mean Barra+t

So looks like this needs a bit of a design change. I took it for a decent blat tonight and about 10kms of 60mph the temp gauge started climbing and the overflow bottle was steaming. I limped it home and had a bit of a poke and a prod around. The rear radiator had overheated. The hose line from the thermostat/outlet was hot up until the booster pump. The front rad was cool to the touch. So I have a few options here. I have a bigger ewp I can fit. Also I can try it without the ewp and just the mechanical pump. The water coming out of the overflow was pretty cruddy so I might give it another flush. I also have a thermo fan for the rear rad but I dont think that is the problem. Might give it an overnight burp with the rear lifted too. It's pretty tricky as there are so many curves and turns in the hoses. One thing I also need to try is putting the outlet of the booster pump on the top. But I have to figure out how to do that due to hose angles. Might be easier to move it to the other side after the front radiator.

Did i see you on Gasson st the other day or is there a twin?

@Nominal is on the money there! Pretty cheap imo, but then again I'm used to mazda tax

They look good! Unfortunately mine are fairly complicated due to the size of the rotor and wheel. It's made it challenging to get air the in, but i'm pretty confident what i've done will have a pretty big impact on temps. First Prototype: My original version probably would have worked with the rotor hat holes blanked off, but while i'm busy fixing those I may as well do the job properly and hopefully for the last time.

Did you click the link?