wtd - engine machine shop recommendations - Christchurch (or i would travel to outer canterbury if its worth it)

[BlownCorona]

HI all 

Im trying to gain some traction on my 18rg rebuild and have come to the conclusion that i selecting a part, cleaning it, and putting it back on the shelf isn't doing it. I need a block to put those parts into. 
I have a good block here and once upon a time it was decked and honed, but it has been left ever since so i need to redo both of those tasks. 

what im looking for;

- clean the block thoroughly, i assume in a hot tank, and hopefully this will remove the old engine paint?
- deck the block - i want the absolute bare minimum taken off as i dont want to be gaining any more compression or upsetting chain tension - it has alrady been cut down 40 thou.
- hone the cylinders, they are just stained and i would like them to be ready to take a run-in. plus the original hone job cross hatching isnt anywhere near steep enough. again bare minimum. 

bonus 
If they had the ability to recoat the block in a nice quality engine enamel afterwards for a not too extortionate fee, i would be very please. 

 

What Im looking for is a workshop that wont take heaps of material off just cause its easier, they are really hard to get and that would put this block into the scrap bin, but also isn't going to cost an absolute fortune because im building an 18rg not a race engine. 

[ajg193]

Kennelly Cams would be my first port of call. They're a good bunch in there.

 

Second on the list would be Cliff Bond

[GregT]

Glen Durie Engine reconditioners in Coleridge st Sydenham.  Every time for me.

[Sunbeam]

5 hours ago, ajg193 said:

Kennelly Cams would be my first port of call. They're a good bunch in there.

 

 

Seconded

[BlownCorona]

while I've only met him once, he is actually good friends with some of my good friends so i might need to go have a chat. 
i mentioned it to him i think, though i really didn't like sounding like i was trying to get a cheap deal just cause i know someone who knows him, but multiple recommendations probably means hes also the right person for the job regardless. 

[RUNAMUCK]

17 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

 

If they had the ability to recoat the block in a nice quality engine enamel afterwards for a not too extortionate fee, i would be very please. 

 "Engine emamal" is a fallacy. All the engine paint I've ever seen was been akin to the worst cheapest, nastiest rattle can paint. 

I had RJP make me some colour match (regular car paint) once. It turned out heaps nicer, and was a million times more durable than any "engine paint" I ever used. 

If you're really trying to create something "wow" paint it yourself with 2k. 

Theres a short block at mums which dad painted in about 1980 with 2pack "superthane" paint. (Its the second tier 2pack from that manufacturer) and although that motor was flogged mercilessly, (been overheated multiple times, HEAPS of towing really heavy shit on hot days, and burnouts for days) you can wipe the block with a rag, and the paint still looks new. 

Any engine guy will just shake the can for 30 seconds, and spray it on. They're engine guys, not painters.

[tortron]

You brush engine enamel on to get it nice and thick, it self levels really well

[Nominal]

/ling

Glyptal (restosupplies.co.nz)

[BlownCorona]

^ this

i knew i didnt want that garbage aerosol shit, but i figured an engine reconditioner may have it in bulk/cheaper otherwise yes ill be doing a brush on product, probably see what spray store have in their mistinted 2k pile as per barts advice! i really only want black though so a litre is hardly gonna brake the bank.

have messaged PK from kennelly and hes happy to do the work. 

any advice for alloy heads? ive searched and searched and kind of come to the conclusion that ill just leave it and hope you cant see too much of it when its all furnished. 

[BlownCorona]

double post

[RUNAMUCK]

39 minutes ago, tortron said:

You brush engine enamel on to get it nice and thick, it self levels really well

I've seen POR15 engine enamal used brush on, and the result was awful. Didnt self level nicely at all. 

Spray and walk away!

[RUNAMUCK]

41 minutes ago, Nominal said:

/ling

Glyptal (restosupplies.co.nz)

They reckon this was more important with ancient castings where casting detritus would escape from the metal forever. 

The proper Barry method is to polish the block.

[cletus]

1 hour ago, BlownCorona said:

any advice for alloy heads? ive searched and searched and kind of come to the conclusion that ill just leave it and hope you cant see too much of it when its all furnished. 

As far as paint goes? 

I painted this 10+ years ago with bunnings enamel paint from a tin 

When i put it in the green car i just cleaned it and gave it another coat of the same stuff. Block is iron but the heads and manifold are aluminium 

It holds up pretty well 

 

[GregT]

1 hour ago, BlownCorona said:

any advice for alloy heads? ive searched and searched and kind of come to the conclusion that ill just leave it and hope you cant see too much of it when its all furnished. 

Vaporblast. Leaves a closed pore surface which is less likely to have crap adhere.  Mate does it from home in ChCh. If interested i'll post his number.

[ajg193]

Just be aware of the risk of small glass particles getting into places you don't want them and then going through your engine. You'll also probably want to give the head a skim again after vapor blast.

 

/I blasted my head and it hasn't blown up yet but you might not be so lucky.

Also wouldn't want vapor blasting anywhere near cam bearing surfaces

[BlownCorona]

the head i have has already been vapour blasted and machined way back when. but it still gets grubby finger prints but they do wipe off. i expect that actual grub wont be go good + years of service grime and oxidation yuckness is what i would like to avoid. i will also make sure its very clean its currently completely unfurnished, thanks for the tip ajg.  

i do like Clints input, perhaps im overthinking it, did you do any primer @cletus?

[tortron]

I painted my engine and box with supercheap enamel about 10 years ago and it's still on there despite being British and leaking every fluid known all over. Also holds up to being dragged around the concrete floor. 

 

Painted my lathe alloy bits, and alloy nissan gearbag, used etch primer then 2k on top

 

 

Prep otherwise is waterblasted, scrubbed with petrol, scrubbed with thinners, then a wipe with wax and grease remover. 

That's probably over kill, my cash money green A series still had some shit on it and thr base coat still stuck

 

I don't like raw aluminium because it goes grubby, some aluminium look paint is a good cover up 

[cletus]

8 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

i do like Clints input, perhaps im overthinking it, did you do any primer @cletus?

Nope. Just cleaned it 

Trans got the same treatment 

[BlownCorona]

as has happened many times im sure, im gonna take both clints and barts advice and smoosh em all together and blast or maybe brush it with some 2k

[Valiant]

*Engine paint Barry's*

Caraid, Duke Street.