30Degrees 1975 Datsun 260c H330 Station Wagon Discussion

[30DegreesRetarded]

Datsun wagon goodness

 

[piazzanoob]

cool to see denham's car still rocking around and even better it back where it was when he got it.

unlucky about all the axle/ diff issues its having  

[Cullen]

Strange about the axle. We put a good number of kms on those axles once they got shortened and I assume it's still the same set up.

[30DegreesRetarded]

I had no issues with that axle collar when I collected from Denham. Drove it from Palmy all the way to Blenheim no probs. It was awesome, but it just made a shit annoying noise that I wanted gone.

It was only when a purchased a new 260c bearing kit from TradeMe and replaced the axle from another Datsun that my troubles started. 

I talked with Denham and a heap of other dudes from the Datsun club but at the end of the day, I’m no mechanic just a hobbyist.

 

This was the homemade way I pressed on collar. Heat it up in the oven 180degrees and drove it home with the steel tube. I tried to upload finish pic but file size won’t let me.

I talked to another Datsun/prince owner that had an issues with bearing supply and telling their supplier (Auckland Bearings) they were too big. They were smart enough to send to an engineer friend before installing. 

At the end of the day. I prob should have had it machine pressed by someone in the know. .. so it’s off to CM Coombes to machine a new axle and instal.

[kicker]

I did the bearings on my old 330 260C, they were easy to source, just a 6208 and the local SKF shop had them on the shelf. Collars are a bit trickier, got mine from Amayama who still have them in stock. I dropped the lot to a local 4x4 outfit to install as noone else had the gear to pull the old bearings off.

[30DegreesRetarded]

Legend, just ordered a locking collar now from Adayama. Picture of part number was perfect thanks.

 

”edit”

 

turns out it’s the same part number as the collar i used. Will still send to engineers with axle. Atleast they will have something to conspire/use if it is correct

Edited April 26, 2023 by 30DegreesRetarded
Added to comments

[RUNAMUCK]

Hi Anthony! (Tony to a few of us stil) 

Welcome to oldschool you magnificent beast! You better get this sorted in time for labour weekend!

[oldrx7]

Sweet wagon, have this pic of parked up at the 2017 Oldschool Drag Day with my old 929 wagon.

[fletch]

From factory the front springs are longer on the drivers side. Maybe swap the springs from side to side to even it up?

 

[fletch]

For the top ball joint boots, just go to repco/napa/supercheap/butler auto mart etc, and ask to have a hunt through their boot selection.

I found all of the sizes for my 230 at maybe repco.

[30DegreesRetarded]

I went to Repco Blenheim with all the measurements and even the ball joints. They looked at me like I was at a beauty salon … walked out of there.

Went and saw Bert at Repco Nelson and managed to get the tie rod ends off shelf but not the ball joints. The D21’s fit but they don’t sell just the boot, need to buy the whole joint. 

im going to try the local BnT & Supercheap and then start looking through wreckers. 

[GregT]

Is there an Autolign branch up your way ?  I've found them way better than Repco.

[RUNAMUCK]

Bert at repco richmond is a menace for finding parts. 

[30DegreesRetarded]

On 30/12/2023 at 16:06, GregT said:

Is there an Autolign branch up your way ?  I've found them way better than Repco.

Na chch and Wellington. I give em a try though cheers

 

[JustHarry]

@30DegreesRetarded did you buy the springs new? They often need 500kms or so to settle .

also the longer one will go on the driver's side . Because most cars get driven with only a driver so the perch the drivers side a wee bit higher to stop it sagging immediately  

trim thr bumpstops if there is enough travel in the shock only. Otherwise your shock will become the bumpstop and that's not good lol.

 

[fletch]

Have you got the rubber/plastic bits on top of the springs inside the crossmember? Mayne you have them both on 1 side or 1 missing

[30DegreesRetarded]

I ended up drawing an outline/stencil of the spring and marking the top end of the springs because my eye gauge couldn’t tell them apart. One I think is about 10mm longer. Springs 2years new, only done 50km one em. Both towers have their own spring perch and Haynes manual has them at top of tower (which I’ve done). Hopefully this has it covered. I’m reassembling again now so let’s see. 

[JustHarry]

1 hour ago, 30DegreesRetarded said:

I ended up drawing an outline/stencil of the spring and marking the top end of the springs because my eye gauge couldn’t tell them apart. One I think is about 10mm longer. Springs 2years new, only done 50km one em. Both towers have their own spring perch and Haynes manual has them at top of tower (which I’ve done). Hopefully this has it covered. I’m reassembling again now so let’s see. 

Put the longer one on the drives side 

[RUNAMUCK]

Hey,

Is it the shock absorber mount fouling the rim, or the ends of the U bolts? (Its hard to tell from the photo) as those kits are often "one size fits most" its usually a thing to need to trim the ends of the U bolts. 

Also with new U bolts, its critical to retighten them after a bit of driving. (They have a habbit of stretching a wee bit after some use. Im a big fan of using nylocs on them because i knew a kid who had them stretch, and the spring washers lost contact/the nuts fell off. (Might have been sloppy assembly practice too) 

[30DegreesRetarded]

It’s the shock absorber mount that’s rubbing on the inside lip of the rim. Maybe due to the axle being 100mm shorter and the 10” wheel?? I’m going to have another go at it as maybe I was not concentrating properly.

I’ll get a better pic then 

the u bolts are fine as they don’t rub at all. Ah yep I’ve got nylon nuts on. Prob due to replace though as I’ve had em off and on enough now that they prob aren’t so effective??