30Degrees 1975 Datsun 260c H330 Station Wagon Discussion

[30DegreesRetarded]

Quick question. Is it best to remove door with hinge attached or leave hinge on the car? Or does it not matter. 

Edited September 18, 2024 by 30DegreesRetarded
Added to comment

[felixx]

On 01/08/2023 at 21:42, 30DegreesRetarded said:

 

That looks like your neighbour is into 27mhz CB, Maybe also a High Gain antenna for PRS too... 

 

 

[30DegreesRetarded]

8 hours ago, felixx said:

That looks like your neighbour is into 27mhz CB, Maybe also a High Gain antenna for PRS too... 

 

 

I never asked him what it’s for. He seems to keep to himself but is a nice enough chap. Kinda reminds me of Wilson from Tim the tool man Taylor. Only ever talk over the fence. 

I believe he owns the local Jaycar here so seems fitting I guess. 

[JustHarry]

On 18/09/2024 at 18:44, 30DegreesRetarded said:

Quick question. Is it best to remove door with hinge attached or leave hinge on the car? Or does it not matter. 

Leave the hinge on the body.

Unbolt the door off the hinge 

Also draw arpund the outside of the hinge with a sharpie or something.  Or use skme tape if you dont want pen on the door frame easier to realign that way 

[30DegreesRetarded]

Any one got any good links to setting timing.

i got a timing light for Xmas from the wife. Pretty cool she’s thinking about stuff I want/need and not just undies and sock which I require/need. 

so, Haynes manual says warm engine, in Nuetral and at idle it should sit at 10*advanced. What I can’t figure out is when I backed off the advance to sit it at 10* I then gave engine a little rev, let it idle and the at idle it dropped prob 15* retarded?!? So now I’ve put it back to the original setting which is dizzy turned full advance.

im assuming what I should be doing (with the reading that ive done) is I need to go back to the points, dwell, lead resistance etc first before timing? 

I run 95-98 so assumed a little advance is good. 

[440bbm]

check idle is at the correct stated rpms.  has it got vacuum advance? disconnect that when checking timing.

dont hold your foot on brake pedal either as the vacuum booster will suck a bit and lose rpm while you are checking  too.

[Sinfull]

Good write up mate.

I've been meaning to ask what you actually did to sort your axle issue. Hmmm or did I. Who knows.

Anyway be good yo get the wagons together one day.

Mat.

[30DegreesRetarded]

NGK SPARK PLUG QUESTION- bp5es vs bp6es

I have replaced the point and spark plugs on the L26 (not condenser). There were NGK bp5es in there so I replaced with the “manual recommended bp6es” spark plugs. Checked resistance on leads. Engine sounds completely different. Sounds cleaner/quieter. 
 

However, I can’t seem to understand why?
 

So after doing some research…Apparently as NGK numbers get higher the plugs run cooler. I purposely purchased 6 over 5’s as I thought it was the other way round. Assumed my fouling issues on the plugs was due to the incorrect plugs and running short engine starts in the shed on choke. 

I’ve recently redone the tappets as I think I’ve got it correct this time.
 

Should i run these plugs and see how they last or just go back to the bp6es ones? 

[440bbm]

did you do the points and plugs at same time?

it could be more the points are set correctly now and probably not burnt out which will be giving you better cleaner ignition. 
a cooler plug means the plug runs cooler, not the cylinder.  maybe the plugs were also on the blink too giving similar symptoms as the points. leave it as is, unless you are having major problems with the 6's fouling.( this is more commonly what kills plugs )

[fletch]

Keep the 6s. They are the right one for your engine. Plus, it's running sweet so don't change anything.