KwS Marina Coupe

[kws]

31 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Did you put plastic under the door cards? I did t see a picture of any, and given your meticulous artention to detail in upur build thread, if you had there would have been one?

Mitre10 sell "greenhouse plastic" cheap as chips. You could do all the openings for like $15.

Keeping the dust and water out will surely prolong the life of your door cards?

I have plastic sheeting but in this case all the holes in the shell behind the door cards have been sealed off with tape. I forgot to tape off the holes in the A pillar too, but that'll happen when they come off next

[tortron]

I think you will find the smith's terminal shouldn't be wiggly. Some of them have the terminal rivited/peened on in the centre and being fairly soft brass they get like that

[kws]

7 hours ago, tortron said:

I think you will find the smith's terminal shouldn't be wiggly. Some of them have the terminal rivited/peened on in the centre and being fairly soft brass they get like that

Yeah i suspected as much. Looking at my photos it appears the gauge did work when i first got the car, and hasn't worked since, so probably bumped it at some point.

[doullama]

It's really coming together, the carpet looks great. Do take care if the carpet in the front footwells gets wet through leaks etc, as you know the front floors are very rust prone and most of a marinas common leaks divert water into them. I'm a huge proponent of paint & oil to keep rust at bay in ancient jalopies - I ground back and por15'd my front floors and followed that up with a couple of coats of penetrol laced black alkyd paint. I've got marina rustproofing down to a bit of a science - enlarging the door drain-holes is a must, as is spraying your rustproofing of choice up in behind the headlights, at the back of the bottom of the front arches, both from the wheel side and from the inside of a-pillar. in the sills and front & rear valances, in the doors and in the panel below your rear window, in the little holes above the front shocks into that blind box each side of the engine bay - actually just everywhere, all the holes in the subframes underneath etc...

[kws]

Apart from the odd gentle clean, this thing is going to be pretty hydrophobic and won't be seeing water. Its got a dedicated space in the garage and will only be driven on nice days. It's pretty well rust-proofed around the work I've done, but yes, I'll be doing as much as I can to slow down any creeping cancer it has.

I thought the door drain holes were fairly reasonable size, but I'll go back and have another look and see if I can enlarge them.

[Nominal]

Good work on getting it WOF ready - make sure to give the brakes a good workout on the way to the WOF man.

[kws]

59 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Good work on getting it WOF ready - make sure to give the brakes a good workout on the way to the WOF man.

Yeah I'll go the slightly long way. I gave them some real good shoves yesterday and made them smell and the pedal is better. It's no surprise they moved on pretty quickly from unboosted brakes, but at least i have front discs

[Nominal]

Sheesh, I reckon you need a better WOF man.

 

[kws]

Just now, Nominal said:

Sheesh, I reckon you need a better WOF man.

 

It won't be going back there...

They have been fine for all my previous cars, Rovers included, but his attitude towards the Marina was a bit off.

[RUNAMUCK]

Probably because it looks so hangi.

If you do get it sandblasted, remove the body sealer first.

The nature of old school body sealer, it really absorbs/dampens the abrasividisity of the blasting media.

My sandblasting guy tells people to remove it first, or else he'll be there all day.

Put the fucker up on body stands. Put on a pair of overalls, a backwards baseball cap, glasses and a p2 mask.

Roll under there on a creeper, and nail it with a wire brush twisted knot cut wheel in a 125mm grinder.  Shit will go everywhere. (Hence why you want to wear reasonable PPE) once the bituminous sealer gets old (as I presume yours is) it eventually goes hard. So the cup wheel will scrub it off with the utmost malice. 

Pus some beers in the fridge for when your done.  In fact you'll need a shower beer, because the uncovered part of your face will resemble a Victorian era coal miner......

[RUNAMUCK]

Push come shove,

Since you don't have any time pressure,

Park it in the naughty corner untill you can muster the fucks to tackle it. 

[shrike]

8 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Probably because it looks so hangi.

If you do get it sandblasted, remove the body sealer first.

The nature of old school body sealer, it really absorbs/dampens the abrasividisity of the blasting media.

My sandblasting guy tells people to remove it first, or else he'll be there all day.

Put the fucker up on body stands. Put on a pair of overalls, a backwards baseball cap, glasses and a p2 mask.

Roll under there on a creeper, and nail it with a wire brush twisted knot cut wheel in a 125mm grinder.  Shit will go everywhere. (Hence why you want to wear reasonable PPE) once the bituminous sealer gets old (as I presume yours is) it eventually goes hard. So the cup wheel will scrub it off with the utmost malice. 

Pus some beers in the fridge for when your done.  In fact you'll need a shower beer, because the uncovered part of your face will resemble a Victorian era coal miner......

If you can put dry ice on the floor (assuming it has not sound deadening) cooling the under seal from above should help you chip it off

Also I think your Wof guy was scared because its an old car and he may never have dealt with something of that era

My local mechanic that does my servicing on my wagon (I dont drive it enough to be a daily, and all costs are written off so no point me doing work myself as its a nana car) I chatted to him about the fake evo (GSR project I had) and he was very hesitant to do any work on it and even a rwc was risky as it was too "old"

To be fair tho as you said, you werent happy with the underside. Personally id still replace the underseal (even just for sound deadening) after you paint it, even if you just use an underbody sealer

[kws]

18 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Probably because it looks so hangi.

If you do get it sandblasted, remove the body sealer first.

The nature of old school body sealer, it really absorbs/dampens the abrasividisity of the blasting media.

My sandblasting guy tells people to remove it first, or else he'll be there all day.

Put the fucker up on body stands. Put on a pair of overalls, a backwards baseball cap, glasses and a p2 mask.

Roll under there on a creeper, and nail it with a wire brush twisted knot cut wheel in a 125mm grinder.  Shit will go everywhere. (Hence why you want to wear reasonable PPE) once the bituminous sealer gets old (as I presume yours is) it eventually goes hard. So the cup wheel will scrub it off with the utmost malice. 

Pus some beers in the fridge for when your done.  In fact you'll need a shower beer, because the uncovered part of your face will resemble a Victorian era coal miner......

By "body sealer" do you mean the horrible tar underseal I want to get rid of? Thats the whole reason for getting it blasted, to remove that horrible shit without me having to spend weeks chipping it off myself

[kws]

5 minutes ago, shrike said:

Also I think your Wof guy was scared because its an old car and he may never have dealt with something of that era

I suspect it's a case of this, the abovementioned visual issues, and the fact it has not had a wof for almost 30 years. That'd put most WOF people on alert.

[RUNAMUCK]

Yes.

It will absorb the abrasion of the blasting media.

When I had a new front welded on my ute, the blaster wouldn't touch it until it had had the sealer removed.

[kws]

Damn. I've got some calls to make on Monday, but that's not promising to hear. I don't actually need the car blasted, so if they can't strip the underseal, and I end up removing the underseal myself I won't bother with blasting.

[jakesae101]

Have you considered fixing the small stuff and taking it to a more friendly place for old cars, You are in the hutt? All fleet services were doing my mini for the old owner and it has the same underseal. 

[kws]

9 minutes ago, jakesae101 said:

Have you considered fixing the small stuff and taking it to a more friendly place for old cars, You are in the hutt? All fleet services were doing my mini for the old owner and it has the same underseal. 

It's an option, but I'm concerned if I don't do something with the underseal taking it somewhere else might be a waste of time anyway. I've been recommended a place by a fellow Rover owner locally that was a bit more old car sympathetic for him (he also got kicked back at the same WOF place I did)

As much as I hate the underseal, if I don't have to touch it, I won't.

[cletus]

I think that thick lumpy underseal stuff was something that you could get done as an optional upgrade in the 60s/70s to protect the undersides? Common in NZ new old cars, but not seen often on anything imported 

My VG has it 

It's pretty horrible, I have seen some old cars where the floor has rusted on the inside but the underseal has been holding it together

[kws]

2 minutes ago, cletus said:

I think that thick lumpy underseal stuff was something that you could get done as an optional upgrade in the 60s/70s to protect the undersides? Common in NZ new old cars, but not seen often on anything imported 

My VG has it 

It's pretty horrible, I have seen some old cars where the floor has rusted on the inside but the underseal has been holding it together

That's pretty much what happened to the front floors, that, and old mate riveting patches over the holes.

It's funny to think that my old classic Mini, which I put through re-rego at VTNZ, had the same underseal and went through with no issues but I need to strip it all back for a WOF when the rego is on hold.