Mr.mk1's Mopar or No Car '70 Dodge Coronet

[MRWEST]

Epic man you must be so stoked, that was a huge project wrapped up in a pretty short time frame considering! cant beat the feeling driving home legal finally!

[dabuzz]

congrats - such a beautiful car, you've done a great job - well done!

[JustHarry]

@Mr.Mk1 What's actually  wrong with the trans? Like barts there's not much to go wrong with them other than stripping on the bench and putting bushes and clutches into it 

[Mr.Mk1]

1 hour ago, JustHarry said:

@Mr.Mk1 What's actually  wrong with the trans? Like barts there's not much to go wrong with them other than stripping on the bench and putting bushes and clutches into it 

I’ve never played with autos before, but comparing it to the valiant/Falcon 6 cylinder cars I’ve had,  it shifts a bit late and unrefined. I should hook up a tach and SEE what’s happening 

[cletus]

Kick down linkage and its adjustment is pretty important on torqueflites 

If it's shifting late, and at higher rpm, might be adjusted too long (or it might have a shift kit in it )

[j.e.d.]

@Mr.Mk1 you've done an awesome job man.. watched this from the start & I'm so pleased to see a happy ending to one of these epic projects.. going to be at MCM I gather?

[JustHarry]

12 hours ago, Mr.Mk1 said:

I’ve never played with autos before, but comparing it to the valiant/Falcon 6 cylinder cars I’ve had,  it shifts a bit late and unrefined. I should hook up a tach and SEE what’s happening 

Did you have the valve body apart?

The can get a bit gummed up in the ball valves/springs 

Like Clint says too kickdown adjustment plays a big part of how they shift too . 

Is the filter New?

If it's getting worse there could be a blockage/clutch material in the filter. Not uncommon for a old trans that's been sitting to have the clutched fall apart 

[RUNAMUCK]

Part of the adjustment involves having the upright link rod (which is adjustable) set so that with an (i forget what size) drill bit through the holes in the pivot arm which bolts to the back two bolts on the left hand side of the manifold they line up. (Youll see the holes, and click, ah, thats what theyre for) sometimes the standard adjustment gets cocked over by an aftermarket manifold. Although your edlebrock LD4B was available through direct connection back in the day. (Mine has a chrysler part number on it) so youd hope* that its not too dissimilar in fitment to a factory item. 

Lots of higher rise manifold cock things about. The kickdown arm on the trans controls the line pressure to (i think) the kickdown band servo* 

*dont take as gospel 

And if its not set right, shit slips and frictions burn up.

[Mr.Mk1]

I converted to kickdown cable as the linkage was slogged out and wasn’t sure what it came from. I’ve got it set at a 1:1inch of movement at trans and carb.

Trans was pretty clean inside with a new filter but I replaced it anyway, didn’t go any further inside.

Cheers j.e.d, I sure will be!

[cletus]

I have a cable on the vg (a home brewed setup) which I fitted when it had the turbo on it , because I wanted more line pressure in the trans at lower throttle openings because it had lots of torque when it came on boost, even at half or less throttle, compared to what it would have had 

 

I left it all the same when I pulled the turbo stuff out.

basically set it so that at WOT the cable is pulled all the way out

 

It doesn't shift into 3rd until you're doing about 55-60 

 

Probably better to shift a bit late, and a bit firm, than the other way. At least it won't slip or get hot 

 

Plymouth has a manual valve body and they are full pressure all the time. Which can be a bit harsh and clunky 

[Mr.Mk1]

Ok good to know, I’ll twiddle with it and see if i can clean it up a bit.

 

[piazzanoob]

What Clint Said is what it needs.

wide open throttle on carb should be wide open on the trans linkage. Sometimes easier with 2 people one underneath moving the lever and one checking at the top.

and as others have said only real adjustment is the bands and kick down. But would only adjust the bands if confident in doing it. Otherwise normally 727s & 904s as quite smooth during gear changes.

also check throttle travel too as with aftermarket carbs they need playing with and the amount of throw on carb can be wrong.

Also how is the motor running? As you were asking about timing 

[Mr.Mk1]

I tightened the kickdown a smudge and it’s shifting a bit earlier which is sweet.

The timing needs double checked by someone who speaks 8cyl more fluently

[cletus]

Last time I had distributor problems n the VG I just rock autoed a early 90s dodge truck dizzy and combined that with a msd street fire box it's been trouble free. 

Due to more compression I had to mess around with the advance weights a bit 

[Mr.Mk1]

That sounds a good compromise eh, cheers.

 
Im trying hard to keep it all stage one so i don't fall into the V8 trap of upgrade this but need to do that and that and this too, may as well get a shiny one.

When i do fall, id be starting with MSD dizzy and box, nice leads, extractors, alternator and starter, new bolts, etc

Went for a test drive to bunnings today and it felt great, responsive, smooth and best yet..fluids retained! 

[RUNAMUCK]

If your dizzy mech weights are sticking, youll need to strip that fucker down. If you pop the cap, you should be able to turn the rotor approx a quarter turn, and have it spring back again. In a perfect world, each time tge pounts are adjusted, a drop of oil should be placed under the rotor. This dribbles down and keeps the mechanical advance arms lubricated. (Tbh, i never knew about this either)  

The other way to check it it to check the timing at idle with a timing light, (vac hose off, and plugged)  give her a gradual rev up to 3000. See if the timing mark advances as you do. (Between 1800-3000 approx) 

[Mr.Mk1]

Yep, had it apart and lubed, moves and springs back now.

its a bit cheap feeling but has chrysler part numbers on the weights. Well see how it goes next tune.

 

[RUNAMUCK]

The other thing is the bushes on the shaft can slog out. If the shaft gets sloppy, the points gap can go all over the show.

[BlownCorona]

its been a while since i was dealing with measuring HT leads. but from memory you cant simply measure their resistance, rather youd need to measure the 'Z' or Impedance which is a combination of resistance, capacitance and inductance- easier said than done.  

regardless, the old boy at Canterbury Auto Electric on waterloo has a masters or phD or similar thesis on spark plugs & leads and he/his team would be the man to both measure and make recommendations. 

[Willdat?]

Spotted today, still reckon yours is prettier!