Ashkellybarr

Chassis strip, prep and seal

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Hi guys. Looking for recommendations on how to tackle the chassis frame.

ive got two options for stripping

either acid dip the whole frame Or wire wheel

and two options for sealing

either paint, epoxi dp40 the 2K Black it. Or, powder coat it black

 

its a 4wd and gets abused, I haven’t done something like this before so want to “do it right, do it once” and make sure it lasts for years.

all pro’s and cons welcome, thanks in advance for help and ideas

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sand blast, and that POR 15 chassis black stuff

Powdercoat would be spendy, and wouldn't last, once it chips moisture can get under it eventually lifting it off, and it cant be touched up

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Welding stuff on once powdercoated is a pain. 

I'd just go wire wheel and POR-15. Don't go out of your way to make the chassis super clean. POR stands for Paint Over Rust so it adheres better in my experience. On clean steel I have had it flake off. Even when keyed. 

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I'd skip the POR and go direct to durapox if painting

 

The steel plate (heavily pitted and showing rust heave) I wirebrushed a couple years ago and gave 3 coats with the gun has sat outside since then and looks like the day I painted it

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dont use POR15, its fucking useless. 

epotec 408 is a fucking great two pac primer but its 1/4 the price of durapox.

sandblast or dip, whatever. once you get it back clean the fuck out of it, scotchbrite the hell out of it then spray it with epotec. whatever you do after that doesn't matter, with that base your good.

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^ this is the only way.

Find your Protec supplier and use 408 epoxy. Protec also do cheap black industrial spec 2K urethane top coats which are great for this kinda thing.

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the ONLY thing i will say against epotec is that the resins tend to float to the surface as it dries. so the first sanding that you do tends to gum the paper a bit.

however if you use a DA sander the paper wont load anywhere near as much.

also, also, you can wet lay onto epotec with great results. over thin the primer to about 40% and it flats out like magic. wait about 2 hours (depending on temperature) then you can top coat straight over it. 

only ever done 1K base and clear but im sure most top coats would be no drama. 

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Are these epotec /durepox products ok to spray at home with a mask? Or is it only top coats/clear that have the isocyanate issues/instant cancer 

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i spray it all the time.

mask and glasses obviously. if im spraying something large i have the door down and let it settle before opening the door again.

something small i usually dont bother.

10 years and no complaints from the neighbors so far. 

dont spray clear with the door open though, that shit stinks and goes for miles. 

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Full face mask with the right filters would be the go. I just brush mine on outside, don't want my garage stinking.

 

If you have the coin, have someone blast the chassis and 2 pot epoxy it. Ready to go.

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I will have pricing to zinc arc spray my projects' chassis and deck etc tomorrow, I can let you know how it stacks up.

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I used Automotive Blasting in Pukekohe a few years ago to do a car for me.

Worth talking to as well.

Nothing wrong with Autoblast, but heard from a number of people he's bloody expensive.

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23 hours ago, S124AB said:

I used Automotive Blasting in Pukekohe a few years ago to do a car for me.

Worth talking to as well.

Nothing wrong with Autoblast, but heard from a number of people he's bloody expensive.

What did the place in puke sting ya?

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1 hour ago, Ashkellybarr said:

Yes please!

$1500, that is a lwb safari chassis, plus a subframe, plus a 2.5m X 1.8m deck.

It's a no brainer, shit will last forever, plus I truly hate the thought of things rusting after my no doubt shithouse efforts to paint it after all the work I have put in.

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