S124AB

Duane Bicknell at Bicknell Autosport Engineering in Highbrook has just done some work on my front struts. They are the now the suspension repairer/builder for Stocks. 09-270 7218

Robertson Instruments are in Onehunga, AKL, as I called in there a couple of weeks ago.

Retro Autoparts in Malaysia seem to drag up some amazing finds. Get in touch with them to see if they can hunt one down. https://www.facebook.com/retro.autoparts/ Were some of these cars not badged as Chrysler or Pontiac in the US? Could be some old stock under a different brand lurking..... Also Phils Rotarys in Brisbane, QLD have another venture - ' New Old Car Company' for non Mazda parts. Worth getting in touch with them as they get a lot of panel parts fabricated in Asia. https://www.facebook.com/NEWOLDCARCOMPANY/

RX-7 first Gen colours.

Here are some colour charts and codes for early model Mazdas. They relate to export colours, as there are JDM colours as well, not used on exported models. If you have other charts for models not listed, then feel free to add. Thread for colour reference and paint codes for those considering using original colours.

Here's the list of repair certifiers: https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/resources/specialist-repair-certifiers/docs/specialist-repair-certifiers.pdf Most of them are making any excuse to NOT take on more work, as 3 have been suspended and prosecuted by NZTA in AKL alone, with their current clampdown on rules interpretation or not following the manufacturers approved repair method. There is more leeway with pre 1990 cars, however, the repair certifier will advise what's required, and who can do the work. Welding certificates are those applying mostly to panelbeating, i-Car approved, factory courses for certain models etc, etc. Any signs of previous repair, the certifier will require sanding/grinding back to bare metal. So talk to one of the above before doing any work and follow their advice...

Pearl is usually a three layer process, a base solid white, then the mica effect, finally clear on the top. These will also have a hardener added which starts a chemical reaction when mixed with the paint, so time limited as how long you've got till application. I was overhearing a conversation in a trade paint shop which also makes up automotive paints, and customer was wanting to do a similar thing. Think the guy was explaining this special spray can that had the hardener in a separate part of the aerosol and could be mixed in somehow just prior to spraying. Here's their website, ask them to explain it over the phone. They can probably have it couriered to you as well. I don't think you can get a pearl in a single can though, but ask them and helps if you have the paint code. If not tell them Toyota 070, which is a common Toyota Pearl White. http://www.wpcpaints.co.nz

pm'd

I used Automotive Blasting in Pukekohe a few years ago to do a car for me. Worth talking to as well. Nothing wrong with Autoblast, but heard from a number of people he's bloody expensive.

I'd choose the Brunox instead, as once it's chemically converted it, the epoxy seals over as a base for two pack primers. It's pretty much the only product Repair Certifiers are approving to kill/cure rust with the exception of sandblasting, and then the bare metal is sprayed with Brunox once blasted. Got one vehicle in compliance at the mo with a few small spots, and this is what they are using.

Once cleaned and sanded, spray Brunox onto the bare steel . It's a rust converter and epoxy primer in one. After two-three coats a day apart and another 24 hours to cure, you can sand, two pack prime etc. http://www.pacer.co.nz/product-group/1561-brunox-epoxy-rust-killer-aero/category/301-brunox Watch attached video on how it works.

For older cars, a cavity wax like Novol (will need an applicator gun), or Teroson in a spray can, as they are a bit more 'runny' than Wurth or Car System. This is better for older cars as there is more seepage into the seams, panel folds etc. A little secret is to warm up the spray cans first, hot water in a bucket, and put cans in there for 10 min or so. This makes the wax flow better. It will take hours, and possibly days to dry properly, as the solvent needs to evaporate. You could then reapply a thicker wax like Wurth to add extra thickness. Best applied when it's hot and dry, so no moisture present where you want the wax to go. Most of them are brown in colour, but Wurth is a cream colour. Cleans up with turps, wax and grease remover etc. https://smitsgroup.co.nz/product/82310/teroson-wx215-cavity-wax-spray-aerosol-500ml http://www.raj.co.nz/product-group/503-ks250-cavity-wax-areo/category/69-bonding-sealing https://eshop.wurth.co.nz/Cavity-wax-CAVWAX-TRANSPARENT-500ML/0892082500.sku/en/GB/NZD/?VisibleSearchTerm=cavity&CampaignName=SR001

$3-$5 k In 2K white. Any reasonable painter will want to prime the car, plus sort out the chips, rusting etc. Therefore two full sandings and blocking, masking x 2 plus ? time to sort minor issues. I've been fixing quite a few hail damaged Aus cars, and it's around $3500 for roof repair, Cant rails, bonnet (usually replace).

Firstly, you need to see a vehicle inspector at a compliance centre, and get them to give you a list of what's required, and I think there are some forms to be completed. Once you have this, then you can determine what you need to obtain, which I think also includes a security interest check, to ensure there are no hooks in it. http://www.ppsr.govt.nz/cms/searching-the-ppsr/search-the-website/motor-vehicle-search Also if the car is worth complying for re registration, as if it's previously been stacked or other structural repairs, you maybe opening a can of worms. If the car isn't of collectable value then the cost may not be worth the effort.

Can only put a reg on hold within 364 days of last registered date. Once it gets to 365 days, rego is automatically cancelled, and car will need revinning and compliance to get back on the road.

Which is what I said

Doesn't matter what anyone here says, as it's the LVV certifier who has to sign off everything. As I import cars I have some dealings with both repair certifiers and LVV certs from time to time. Biggest thing is to not act like a dickhead or f...wit. They've heard all the B/S stories before, probably a hundred times. Like you're already doing, talk with a couple of LVV certifiers first, and ask them to clarify if what you're doing/propsing or done, is heading the right way. Far easier to clarify everything first, than having to modify again or remove stuff you've done. Here's the contact list. I have used Paul Urqhart before and know him well, however up to you as to who you contact, providing they are rated in the areas of expertise that you need. https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/CertifierList-Website.pdf

You could use POR-15 instead. Talk to the guys at the paint shop to confirm what you're trying to achieve. You can paint over POR once it has set, or spray cavity wax over the top. It's the rust preventive coating you want. http://totalbodyshop.co.nz/catalogue.php?cat=POR-15

Most likely there is a silicon based spray or other type of lubricant still on the surface. Even though you've used wax and grease remover, there may still be some residual on the surface, or it's sunk in. Assuming you mixed the primer filler as prescribed and thinned correctly. New mixing containers, or re using old ones? I personally wouldn't use the tack rag, just prepsol wash and high pressure air to dry off, then do it again.

The compliance centre, or their inspector should be able to give you the correct forms to fill in.