cletus Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 You could do it a bit like a notch in a chassis- weld in the new part as much as you can, then cut the bit in the way out 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 26, 2020 Share Posted April 26, 2020 thats exactly what i was going to suggest. should keep everything steady as a rock 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.e.d. Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Or convert to chain drive? size of rear sprocket might be smaller that the belt drive one you have on there & may clear more. I'm a fan of chain driven Harleys though.. no concerns of belts breaking in the middle of nowhere, and with doing that on my old bike allowed me to run a 180 rear tyre 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 Did a little tweak to my exhaust bracket by adding another support. This should brace it so it doesn't fatigue. My welder was playing up and feeding erratically, but got there in the end. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 I've added a clamp fitting up near the timing cover too, and will weld actual to the frame there to further support the exhaust. That should do the trick. I've made all the bits, but don't want to weld it with the current problems I'm having with my welder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 Hel brake lines arrived today. This is take 3 on the brake lines. All fits well, but I did have to bend the banjo a couple mm in the vice and rotate the fitting 90°. Hel have rotation as a selling point, but fuck me it took some force to do this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 Im gonna go down this route for my cables.. how did you go about getting them exactly what you wanted. Size fitting and length ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 And by cables I mean brake lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 19 hours ago, Chris.QCR said: Im gonna go down this route for my cables.. how did you go about getting them exactly what you wanted. Size fitting and length ? By fucking it up the first 2 times. It's not that hard, I used a bicycle cable and ran the route I wanted it to go, then measured required length off that. The hard part was the fittings. Pays to measure everything as the hand control may be different to the caliper, as too the foot reservoir to the rear caliper...they can all be completely different. The other problem is the angles the end fittings are bent at. They have tight radius and won't clear fuck all. I tried to do this with a 90° bend, but the radius was too tight and it wouldn't reach the hole (insert joke). So I had to do it with a 45° bend and add extra length to the line. My advice would be to take it to a brake place if you can, as it's cheaper to get it right first time, rather than fuck up multiple times like I did. Or if you're doing it yourself really check those banjo sizes, angles, rotations etc... and don't aim for hero tolerance on the lines...add a bit of fat in there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 Whoop whoop! Parts arrived 3 months after ordering them. Better late than never I guess? A cheeky unboxing photo Then a test fit. Well it didn't go as it should, I had to re tap the hole because the 1/4 NPT (T, stands for tapered) thread bottomed out only a turn into it. Not quite right...so a friendly screw of the tap cut it a new one. Also the little filter doesn't fit through the hole. Bit of a design flaw don't you think??? It can only be installed from the top...ummmm of the all but sealed tank. I'll figure something out, or just leave it off. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 21, 2020 Share Posted June 21, 2020 Amazing lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 More bits arrived It's all the shit I ordered while locked down. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Kimjon Posted December 24, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 24, 2020 The forward controls looked awesome, I figured someone must have done some kind of R&D on them, or at least tried them out, but whoever designed these was a fucktard!! Seriously, the shifter arm had its pivot center about 100mm behind the foot peg. The arm was only about 150mm long, so 150mm - 100mm = 50mm of room to squeeze your foot in. ○Basically you had to lift up with the shifter here. ○Then, you had to lift your entire foot off the peg and lift it up and over the shifter, put you entire foot on top of the shifter to shift down the gear, with no heel contact on the peg at all, your foot literally floating in thin air with only your toes sitting on top of the shifter as you brake and down shift!!! Most forward controls have the shifter share the same pivot centre as the foot peg. I checked all my measurements and think I can get away wwith moving them very close together, as the arm is quite long. Re engineering the mounts. Now it work more like this: Only the tip of your toes has to flip around the shifter, maintaining heel contact all the time on the footpeg. Much better, it actually works now. You can simply pivot your foot, maintaining contact with the foot peg and shift gears up or down, just like a real motorcycle should. I'm happy now, much better. 12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 Maybe that's where the "harley stomp" shift technique comes from? Must be getting pretty close to rideable 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted December 24, 2020 Author Share Posted December 24, 2020 2 minutes ago, cletus said: Maybe that's where the "harley stomp" shift technique comes from? Must be getting pretty close to rideable Maybe? My leg already looks like this, so I'm keen to try retain it and not take it off the foot peg more than necessary The wiring is the big job. I started it, way back in L4 lockdown, but its not something I enjoy doing. Just gotta get over myself and do it. Its all there, no excuses. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Gruntfuttock Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 That's my favourite bit. Prob cos I'm so mechanically inept, but understand sparks... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Kimjon Posted December 25, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 25, 2020 The shift linkage ended up on a less than perfect angle after shifting the centre point about 100mm. It worked, just...but was shit. So I machined up some stainless rod to extend the length, as hey let's be honest, a little more length is high on most guys wish list: I then tapped an M8 thread through it, and used about 30mm of M8 threaded rod to connect it to the existing linkage. This added ~60mm in length and i made the rest up by having the threads out a bit on the rod ends. Boom!! Now the linkage has near 1:1 give or take mechanical advantage, so about as positive as you could get in a set up like this. how does it work now? Perfectly...Fuck yeah!! 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted December 30, 2020 Author Share Posted December 30, 2020 Wiring is for dicks!! I wish I just kept my "Bluetooth" Wiring as it looked much better without real Wiring... Anyway, reality dictates I will actually need to do it, despite how much I want to avoid it. Take 1: Relays in the battery box. Seemed like a good idea, and was reasonably tidy. However I was unable to run the wires internally up the backbone of the bike as I envisioned, as the loom has too many wires to all fit in there with other stuff going on like fuel tank threaded inserts and the way the saddle tube connects and blocks the spines opening...arghhh...grrrr!!! So, take 2: Try shifting everything under the transmission. Sweet, rear wires = very tidy, I can easily hide those. Front wires can be run alongside the clutch cable (heat shrink to keep it all coved of course). I can even use OEM fittings for connecting everything up, which was always my plan if possible. Yip, standing back it looks fine. 100% better than my first attempt, which was just fucking ugly. This is much better, no ugliness along the backbone distracting from the clean lines. The naked spine and tank are this bikes main feature and cable ties and a honking big wiring loom there would have looked shit!! Calling it a win. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted December 30, 2020 Author Share Posted December 30, 2020 Just brought a banjo bolt with inbuilt pressure switch, this will send a signal to indicate that the rear brake is applied. And a nice little ignition switch (key). I realised I would need these parts after reading the wiring diagram fror the 50th time and wondered how to get a brake signal to the rear, I figured there'd be an existing solution for this problem, so happy to pay the money for it. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 Doing the practical thing and hiding my wiring, so if there's a problem its impossible to get to it...oh, fuck...yeah...ummm...why do we do this again??? I googled and googled and the general consensus was that upto 1/2" (12.5mm) hole is fine, people have been doing that for years without any issues. I decided that 3/8" (10mm) was enough to get the job done and would leave a little bit more meat on the bone, so thats what I did. Offset slot to the left. Everything is going to run down the clutch cable once done. I spent ages sanding everything down so there's no sharp edges to cut the wires. Now I've just gotta heat wrap this mess and shove it down the inside of the bars. Oh and the other side has double this amount!! Ummm... for want of a better phrase this was my "first pull". Hey, sounds better than "tug"?? Boom, both side done. New loom pops out right by clutch cable, I'll cable tie it together and run it down to my new wiring under the transmission. So that's a good start on something I've been very much procrastinating. Winner, winner...chicken dinner!! 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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