cletus Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 panelbeaters always tell me to use brunox for rust, anyone else used it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 panelbeaters always tell me to use brunox for rust, anyone else used it? i have, it is a rust neutralizer that forms a skin on it. Seems ok but i'd scrape the skin off with wire brush and put a protective coating on it. The skin is not something i'd trust yet, don't think it lasts more than 6 months in weather. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minime Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 I have always had good results using fisholine 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duddley Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 electrolysis works well, is inexpensive and best of all is effective inside cavities where you normally can't get access. I've used electrolysis as well on gears and smaller items from an engine and can't believe how well it works. I tested it out using an ice cream container, chicken wire, a battery charger and a water pump pulley from my engine (rusty as fuck), filled with water and dumped in a few tablespoons of baking soda. Left it over night and it came out brand new. Wish I took photos. Similar setup to below: Do any of the big shops sell bags of phosphoric acid (eg. Mitre 10, supercheap, BOC etc.)? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duddley Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 Can anyone recommend this stuffs? Click pic for link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morkster Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 That's cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 I have always had good results using fisholine Really Really good stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 So I have heaps of rusty parts for the ute and have found that there is lots of surface rust/light pitting in my floor SO my interest in rust removal has tripled in the past few days. Why don't more people use electrolysis! I have a bath with brake disc bubbling away outside and I honestly can't believe how quickly it's happening! Cost isn't an issue- you need about 50c worth of Washing Soda (super easy to find eg bin-in) and that's about it! I was using a charger but that was 1a max- now using a 19v 3.5a laptop power supply (cheap) with some alligator terminals. The disc is simply to satisfy my curiosity though. I REALLY want to know if electrolysis can be effective if you don't have a bath of solution.. I'm thinking wet towels soaked with electrolyte sitting in my floorpan with the anode laid on top. I guess it depends on if the electrolyte needs to be free to circulate. What if I made an electrolyte jelly or paste? Yes grinding would work but this is so much cooler. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/miscellaneous/rust_removal.htm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Lap top charger is smart. I have been looking for an old cheap battery charger for a while. With no luck .My charger has a stupid minimum voltage thing before it will turn on. I have many different power supplies around. That ideas a winner in my book How has it worked out?? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 gona have an issue with the hydrogen bubbles building up ya dont smoke do ya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Really Really good stuff. When the the Holden is painted all the cavities will get drowned in fishoil. Stinks like nothing else but stops any more rust coming through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 gona have an issue with the hydrogen bubbles building up ya dont smoke do ya Exactly he issue I had. It ballooned the fabric up. So I changed to scotchbrite just to keep anode and cathode separate. Success. Pics soon..it's only been going 15 min Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 So here is the brake disc after approx an hr. I wet the other one so they were both wet (it was easier than properly drying the already wet one) I thought that the rust removal was only line of sight but it seems not. To be honest I don't know how much further to go? Does the black disappear along with the brown? Here is my first attempt at the floor rust. You can see the balloon of gas there (like when you fart in the pool and ur togs fill with gas lololol) and then with scotchbrite And then after approx 15 min (And now I realise I had taken no more photos.....I went and got takeout, got back, marveled at the amount of sludge and then cleaned out the water etc because iz too scared to leave it going in shed over night without ventilation etc) It is mighty impressive! Plug the power in and it instantly starts fizzing. And I have read realised the rear patches are nowhere near as well glued in as I thought. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Ive got some big deep cycle batterys you can borrow and a charger if you want to dump some juice at it. wet foam will work good gas can pass thru it hydrogen dissapates very well you will get roughly 1 litre per minute of gas at 10 amps thats not much. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Thanks man. I really need to know what I'm doing first though... have tomorrow off so will have a few things sizzling away for the day. I am a bit weary of this gas that's coming off because there's so many warnings about doing it outside etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 So this is exactly one hr in the tank. And I made a video to show how cool it looks (and used YouTube's filter and music for the first time hahaha) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 Has anyone ever used Gibbs brand before? Apparently it's the shizz for spraying in your seams.. and protecting bare steel. I think Mike's autobody in the north are the only nz distributors.. *edit.. oh and you can paint over it also 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLEX Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Good read here and given me a bit of insight cheers guys I have tried most of the Repco / Supercheap rust converters on various cars over the years and have settled with the septone rust converter from supercheap but we pour it into an old squirty bottle and spray it on and it seems to work very well for killing light surface rust before sanding and etching and we always use it to prepare holes before patching to clean up any remaining rust that might be hiding from us. So far we haven't had anything come back through but im definitely in agreement that it is best to remove rust and replace the steel with brand new steel and then cavity wax the inside to protect it from coming back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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