chris r

chrisr hz tonner discussion

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2 hours ago, 1963 AP5 said:

Good trick using the old solenoid housing as a jet holder.

It's great to see it running a whole lot better!

Thanks, the jet holder wasn't available so I had to use what I had available. 

 

Yeah I'm pretty happy it's actually running well after this head scratching 

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By running well it was idling without raw fuel pouring out the exhaust.

I'll strip the weber and have another look through it and see if i've fucked anything else up on it. I'm very tempted to put it up on trademe and make it someone elses problem, Will keep the manifold for if/when I get around to the injection stuff.

 

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53 minutes ago, rusty360 said:

The old stromy is back on!! How did they wide band go together?

I've lost patience (for the time being) to figure out the weber. The wideband Kit was a piece of piss to solder together. 

I've got a lingering chest infection so energy is pretty low at the moment hence throwing toys and swapping the stromberg back on so Its drivable 

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Oh dear, it's a sad day when the factory single barrel carb is genuinely the best option available. If you really do run out of ideas for the Weber flick me a message, maybe you can send it my way and I can pull it apart and have a look for ya. These carbs really shouldn't be that problematic but maybe there is something wrong with the way yours is put together. It is even possible that somebody messed around with it and got something wrong before you got your hands on it.

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The new switch must have a wire crossed somewhere eh. Had that with repo tail lights, needed de pinning and correcting

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On 07/09/2020 at 20:30, 1963 AP5 said:

Oh dear, it's a sad day when the factory single barrel carb is genuinely the best option available. If you really do run out of ideas for the Weber flick me a message, maybe you can send it my way and I can pull it apart and have a look for ya. These carbs really shouldn't be that problematic but maybe there is something wrong with the way yours is put together. It is even possible that somebody messed around with it and got something wrong before you got your hands on it.

Chances are both previous owner and I have done something wrong with it :)

Also doesn't help I haven't had the brain power lately to figure it out 

11 hours ago, tortron said:

The new switch must have a wire crossed somewhere eh. Had that with repo tail lights, needed de pinning and correcting

The colours were all correct and in the same place as my og switch, the new switch initially worked correctly when I fitted it, it just went stupid after a short drive 

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Such bad luck with that new switch Chris. At least the old one still works even if it isn't the prettiest looking.

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Yeah it's frustrating. Ebay seller said to send it back as they haven't seen that happen before...

Im not too keen to pay postage for a faulty switch to be sent back a wrong colour one 

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I'll send another email and see what happens of it, that's easy enough. If nothing happens from. It I'll cut my losses 

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The new m/cyl looks great.

Do me a favor and pull the mastervac  check valve out, poke the longest finger (or didget!) you posses in there and let me know if there's any residual brake fluid there. if there is PM me and I'll talk you through a booster rebuild or you can bring it (and a bottle) to the world famous sr2 mancave in Milford and we'll do it in person.

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On 23/09/2020 at 23:05, sr2 said:

The new m/cyl looks great.

Do me a favor and pull the mastervac  check valve out, poke the longest finger (or didget!) you posses in there and let me know if there's any residual brake fluid there. if there is PM me and I'll talk you through a booster rebuild or you can bring it (and a bottle) to the world famous sr2 mancave in Milford and we'll do it in person.

Will do that when I get it back 

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Had a look at the weber on the weekend and i have discovered a few things and have a couple of ideas to share.

Firstly the accelerator pump  boost diaphragm is set up in a rather unusual manner. On my ADM this diaphragm is supplied with a vacuum signal internally (shared with the power valve) but on your carb the internal port is blanked off and it seems to be supplied from an external vacuum source. Either someone has set it up this way on purpose, although I am not exactly sure why you would do that, or it simply has some incorrect parts fitted. Either way I am sure you can make it work by simply connecting this vacuum line to manifold vacuum.

 

Accel pump boost.jpg

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The next thing I noticed was the absence of gaskets on the spacer at the base plate. When I disassembled this I found evidence of vacuum leaks in this area. I will tidy this up and reassemble it with a couple of gaskets installed. If we manage to get the carb working properly you will need to replace this with a metal spacer.

 

Base plate vac leak.jpg

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Finally I have an interesting theory about the make shift jet holder. While re-purposing the solenoid body as a jet holder seems like a good idea I think there may be a problem with this in practice. The solenoid body has quite a large internal volume compared with a jet holder and this void must be filled with fuel before the primary low speed circuit can begin to supply fuel to the engine. Further to this, any air or vapour trapped in this area will affect the fuel delivery to the engine. I believe there is also the potential for fuel to leak back down from this little reservoir again affecting the fuel mixture at low to mid engine speeds. The good news is I am sure I have a spare jet holder for an ADM somewhere in my parts stash and if I can find it I will send it your way so you can give it a try. I will put it all back together sometime this week and hopefully we can get it sorted.

 

Jet holder 123.jpg

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Thanks for looking over it, that makes a lot of sense with the jet holder cavity. 

I didn't think about the area where the solenoid was when I barried it up 

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The carb is all back together and hopefully in working order now.

The main things I have changed are:

1) Replaced the primary jet holder and the jet. I have a 60 in my Weber and I did some digging through my parts box and found a spare 57 so I fitted it for you. This will be pretty close but it may still need some minor tuning if everything goes well.

2) Tidied up the carb spacer and fitted fresh gaskets.

3) Fixed up the idle mixture adjustment screw. I found that this was kind of gummed up and when it felt like the screw was all the way in, it was actually about 3mm away from the orifice in the carb barrel. I think this would have made it almost impossible to correctly adjust the idle fuel mixture. I cleaned it all up and pre-set the adjustment screw one and a half turns out. This should be a reasonable starting point but will no doubt require some fine tuning.

4) Sorted out the various vacuum connections and labelled the ones you need to connect to get things working properly.

I did notice that the vacuum diaphragm for the automatic choke isn't in good shape. Did you get one of these with your carb kit?  If so I think you should fit it to the carb. All the other choke components seem to be in reasonable order and I think the auto choke would probably work if this diaphragm was replaced. The idle-up adjustment screw was missing so I have replaced that so all that's missing now is the vacuum diaphragm. 

Auto choke.jpg

Gaskets.jpg

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