chris r Posted April 7, 2016 Posted April 7, 2016 Best to check voltage when it's running. Can show 12 with no load, if there is a shit connection it'll drop down with a load. Quote
tortron Posted April 7, 2016 Posted April 7, 2016 i have a 65 year old wiper motor thats never been touched in my minor. so dont discredit it just because its got a few years 2 Quote
mlracing.co.nz Posted April 24, 2016 Posted April 24, 2016 Best to check voltage when it's running. Can show 12 with no load, if there is a shit connection it'll drop down with a load. I actually bench tested some and yeah mine wasn't great haha Quote
kyteler Posted April 24, 2016 Author Posted April 24, 2016 Did you know: Not all 10's and 110's came with Intermittent, indeed it was generally only the lu'X'ury model, with all its other fancy trimmings like electric windows, etc. Phwoar. I tell you. Things were crazy back in the day. 4 Quote
mlracing.co.nz Posted April 25, 2016 Posted April 25, 2016 Did you know: Not all 10's and 110's came with Intermittent, indeed it was generally only the lu'X'ury model, with all its other fancy trimmings like electric windows, etc. Phwoar. I tell you. Things were crazy back in the day. I'm glad I don't have electric windows, just another thing to fail haha Quote
Willdat? Posted May 20, 2016 Posted May 20, 2016 Ok so now that you're enlightened about how to put the electric motor back together - how do you do it?! I did it recently with 3 people and a collection of tweezers... 1 Quote
mlracing.co.nz Posted May 20, 2016 Posted May 20, 2016 Ok so now that you're enlightened about how to put the electric motor back together - how do you do it?! I did it recently with 3 people and a collection of tweezers... It's still a major pain in the ass but to get the bushes back in their springy home while you're fucking around with the rest, loop the wire around the little catch at the end of each bit. That probably makes no sense. Assuming that's what you're talking about. Quote
Willdat? Posted May 21, 2016 Posted May 21, 2016 It's still a major pain in the ass but to get the bushes back in their springy home while you're fucking around with the rest, loop the wire around the little catch at the end of each bit. That probably makes no sense. Assuming that's what you're talking about. I get it - makes way more sense than what I tried/eventually achieved! Quote
mlracing.co.nz Posted May 21, 2016 Posted May 21, 2016 Yeah tell me about it, I was this close to giving up then I found some obscure post someone made on a Z forum and it was like a night and lightswitch had been flicked. I felt like such an idiot haha Quote
kyteler Posted October 23, 2016 Author Posted October 23, 2016 Would make more sense parked aside a GTE wouldn't it? Pewhuehue Quote
DB8-TypeR Posted October 23, 2016 Posted October 23, 2016 Im sure that p/plate used to be on a veilside R32 GTR around Kawerau many years ago Quote
mlracing.co.nz Posted October 23, 2016 Posted October 23, 2016 Would make more sense parked aside a GTE wouldn't it? Pewhuehue Hahah didn't have one at my disposal Quote
Bling Posted February 6, 2017 Posted February 6, 2017 In regards to the clunking, are you sure the piston rod nuts are all the way home? I've had it before where the piston hadn't locked into the top hat correctly and so the piston was turning when I thought it was locked in place. Meant clunky noises. Popped the nuts off, and realigned the piston rod into the top hat (it had a cut out, hadn't noticed it at first), this locked the piston and allowed it to be properly tightened. You've likely already got that sorted, but just thought i'd mention it in case. Or your setup may not be the same. I'd just check by tightening it and checking the piston isn't turning. Quote
Sambo Posted February 8, 2017 Posted February 8, 2017 ^^ Definitely look at that. Also, judging by the rubber covers over the shock pistons, the rubber seats for the springs are probably pretty shagged, they make a difference. Quote
mlracing.co.nz Posted February 8, 2017 Posted February 8, 2017 On 06/02/2017 at 23:25, Bling said: In regards to the clunking, are you sure the piston rod nuts are all the way home? I've had it before where the piston hadn't locked into the top hat correctly and so the piston was turning when I thought it was locked in place. Meant clunky noises. Popped the nuts off, and realigned the piston rod into the top hat (it had a cut out, hadn't noticed it at first), this locked the piston and allowed it to be properly tightened. You've likely already got that sorted, but just thought i'd mention it in case. Or your setup may not be the same. I'd just check by tightening it and checking the piston isn't turning. Yeah the cutout is aligned (if we're talking about the same thing) as it wouldn't fit the hole without that being in the right place. Yeah those rubber covers have definitely seen better days.. but I think the spring seat is ok but could be right on that too @Sambo Quote
kyteler Posted August 5, 2017 Author Posted August 5, 2017 Eeeeeeh, I don't know maaaaaan. The repro c130 plastic looks weird like the early chromies. 1 Quote
mlracing.co.nz Posted August 6, 2017 Posted August 6, 2017 On 05/08/2017 at 20:14, kyteler said: Eeeeeeh, I don't know maaaaaan. The repro c130 plastic looks weird like the early chromies. Yeah see how it goes, I just like having no orange on the car now as the rear lights of course don't have orange in it either. On 05/08/2017 at 20:15, beachlander said: Lol are they the $20 ones off yahoo? Yeah cheapies lol Quote
kyteler Posted August 7, 2017 Author Posted August 7, 2017 Can get clear or smoked lense standard type, can you not? Quote
mlracing.co.nz Posted August 7, 2017 Posted August 7, 2017 22 hours ago, kyteler said: Can get clear or smoked lense standard type, can you not? Hmm haven't seen them, but then haven't really looked. These were cheap and I do like the style of them, just need to get em to fit a bit nicer 1 Quote
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