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Chris R's various honda thread including punishing modern non os daily driver updates


chris r

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I'm calling the vacuum leak fixed.

vUMX1Iw.jpeg

Well as fixed as it can be with the alix manifold. I noticed a thin/undercut bit for the idle motor feed port meets the throttle body bolt  

ChGze7N.jpg

This Bluetooth connection makes setting tps easier. Get tps roughly in the ball park and then adjust the min/max values on your phone

 

 

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41 minutes ago, tortron said:

Hi chris

I have looked into this, the consensus is that it sucks and a turbski is just way better

 

 

But how else can I live out my supercharger on a button mad max fantasy when sitting in traffic? 

Carbs suck too so it'll probably end up on something that came out of the factory with a carb 

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Finally had another look at the rear brakes as pedal was getting soft again and handbrake had heaps of travel. 

Turns out whoever did brakes last time replaced the auto adjuster on the left hand side with the wrong one(lh has reverse thread) so it was auto adjusting in not out. If grabbed a couple from pap when I was there and fitted the correct one in and adjusted up and all is well. 

Probably was the same mekenik who left the hard line into the prop valve loose. 

No pics becuse break dust etc. 

I thought I'd try patching the exhaust leak in the beagle so I could take it for a wof 

QMkc3gq.jpeg

One patch turned into two, then four. Then I found more holes and decided the whole pipes rusty and fucked and I need to redo it so it's back to sitting on the lawn for a few months 

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I thought I had photos of the harness but didn't. I decided to try swapping the ecu plug on the adaptor harness to the genuine as its less work and soldering everything. The pins were quite loose in the Chinese connectors so there might have been something dodgy there. 

But when putting it back in I noticed that 

R8HgiqB.jpeg

Then wire might have snapped when I was rough and pulled the twist and tape out or it was damaged internally after the big swap/surgery. 

Seems to be fixed for now. Let's hope it stays that way 

p9YoWsw.jpg

 

 

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On 22/03/2023 at 20:59, chris r said:

I thought I had photos of the harness but didn't. I decided to try swapping the ecu plug on the adaptor harness to the genuine as its less work and soldering everything. The pins were quite loose in the Chinese connectors so there might have been something dodgy there. 

But when putting it back in I noticed that 

R8HgiqB.jpeg

Then wire might have snapped when I was rough and pulled the twist and tape out or it was damaged internally after the big swap/surgery. 

Seems to be fixed for now. Let's hope it stays that way 

p9YoWsw.jpg

 

 

Nope back to not working again. Really need to borrow a scope and solder a wire to ecu pin and see if it's acutally getting a signal or if ecu is being a dick 

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I have this which is in my spares package for the race car. It should be p30 to OBD2 loom (is there other types?), although I haven't had it out of the packet to confirm.

Happy to loan it it it helps with troubleshooting.

20230402_091124_compress36.jpg

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So pulled the ecu out again and tested continuity for the millionth time. Of course it's all good. 

F6gpWMG.jpeg

Possibly a dry joint or more likely it's scratches from my meter probes. 

Reflowed it while it was in there and soldered the wire on 

pDBlMkR.jpeg

There's a handy hole in side of the case so wire comes out nicely 

jayptaS.jpeg

Now it can go back in and every time I have the tools it'll work. 

One possibility is the speedo corrector is causing schenanagins with the signal and the ecu not being happy with it, that's another reason for wanting to chuck a scope on it 

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