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Chris R's various honda thread including punishing modern non os daily driver updates


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@chris rare we taking bets on KWATW? 

Factory is meant to be what 112kw at the fly? 

So maybe 90-100kw atw stock? 

Did you have a factory dyno number?

I'm guessing with the exhaust, better head, compression bump and a good tune (what fuel are you going to run?) Assuming you can run optimum timing for power (without knock) 

You might gain what 10-20kw atw?

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Yeah factory meant to be 110kw at the flywheel factory. Just running 95, if I sacrifice a bit of power so be it, it's intended to be a fun daily/I'm too cheap to pay for 98 all the time 

My crx made 115 wkw from memory (same dyno as this will be going on) , that was type r b18c so more compression and revs/it also had aftermarket cams. 

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Pretty stoked with that as it's a 300k+ bottom end rebuilt in the shed with a unknown Facebook marketplace head. No leaks or shitty noises. 

If I can find some b16a or type r cams I'll get more power all round but dont know if a cbf changing them when this works well enough 

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Factory intake arm arrived thanks brock/auto parts farm/I forgot your os name

ldRtvkA.jpg

Fitted that and used a old bit of auto trans cooler hose as the rocker cover vent hose as the cabin gets pretty fumy (still need to do shifter cable grommets) 

Unsurprisingly my orb fitting didn't seal, good to know catch can is doing its thing though 

VFWLcEO.jpg

 

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Borrowed old works host. 

Driveshaft, new pads and rotors fitted. 

K2EkJ3Z.jpg

Heat shield stuff applied to firewall around shifter as the cat sits right below itR9KN1Fu.jpg

I grabbed a shorter belt for the power steering and that now works 

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Couple small things today. 

Fixed the door card fabric that's been flapping pretty much the while time I've owned the car 

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Mounted the ecu 

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Factory trim even fits back on

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Next on the list is to cut out a bit of metal to fill in the gap where the crv shifter boot doesn't quite match the orthia surround. Stock civic/orthia shift boots will be too short to fit and share a similar size hole to the auto shifter

mxXN3Uz.jpg

Just need to make some brackets for the headers to help support them and clean/drive it and see what else comes up. 

 

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Couple things have cropped up, srs light has made a appearance and didn't fix itself with a reset. I'll have to do some trouble shooting. 

Flash codes come out as 23, 13, and 12 

2-3 short circuited To a Wire In Passenger's Inflatable Air Bag Module Or low Resistance

1-3 short circuited To a Wire In Driver's Inflatable Air Bag Module Or low Resistance
1-4 short circuited To 12 volt power or VSS. Driver's Inflatable Air Bag Module

Also the cluster lights for the needles don't work so I'll need to pull the cluster out and investigate 

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The clock spring in my EK was a pretty fragile ribbon cable sort of thing, that's the first place I would look. 

We'll that any any other yellow (or was it orange) electrical plug you might have played with. 

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I'm leaning towards clock spring, I had the coloum out and didn't re center/check the clock springso I'm hoping that's the issue.

I had the srs loom out when I was running the shifter cables and was super careful not to damage it

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Checked the loom, no visual damage at all checked everything for continuity/shorts and all good there, clock spring had continuity and no shorts so I'm guessing ecu shit the bed 

Grabbed a couple of bulbs from pap while I was there and fixed the cluster/not being able to see the speed needles at night 

Chucked some coolant in it as it didn't leak any of the water or make milkshakes 

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Crimped/sorted the amp power wiring and made a new earth cable while I had the crimpers out 

T91heRD.jpeg

kx7O6t2.jpeg

 

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Did some reading and there is a manual srs reset process to follow, disconnecting battery isn't enough as it turns out 

Made up a button to help with that lddYAah.jpeg

Success 

gorMPTy.jpeg

Got sick of not having the alarm control the locking so sorted that 

Had a look at the diagrams and there was a optional remote for this, checked and the drivers door had a factory motor in it which was nice. 

Had to probe the module but found the lock/unlock triggers 

t2ewxRJ.jpeg

Soldered the wires on and put it back in the case 

Lu4smEA.jpeg

Now it works as it should 

https://i.imgur.com/t4YwJkj.mp4

 

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So this happened again tonight 

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Replaced the clock spring as I grabbed one when I was last at pick a part and it's the only part of the system that shares a 12v supply with something else (horn) 

Here's a edited version of the reset process so I can find it easier again next time 

1st step in erasing the memory is to turn the ignition off and connect the tool/switch to the MES Plug

2nd Turn Ignition on. SRS indicator light will come on for about 6 seconds then go off.
3rd Disconnect tool/turn off switch  within 4 seconds after SRS indicator light goes off. SRS indicator light will come on again. 

4th Reconnect tool/turn on switch within 4 seconds after SRS light comes on. SRS indicator light will go off.


5th Disconnect tool/turn off switch  within 4 seconds. SRS indicator light will indicate that memory is erased by blinking 2 times.


6th Turn ignition off, and wait 10 seconds. Start vehicle like normal and light should come on and go out like normal. 

 

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The ac has been intermettent for a while and there was a old receipt for a repair on heater controls not working so I pulled it out and took it to the healing bench 

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I suspected dry solder joints so had a go at them with the cheapie soldering iron. Yes best practise is to de solder and re solder everything but i don't have the energy/can't find the tools in the mess. Reflow and a bit of fresh solder in the mix will do the job for now 

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Success (mostly) 

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Annoyingly the illumination lights aren't working. I've ordered all the illumination bulbs for both parts from amayama as they were a couple of dollars each and being genuine I know they'll work fit/be right. 

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