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Chris R's various honda thread including punishing modern non os daily driver updates


chris r

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Seat base has made a massive difference. I didn't realise how bad it was before. Just one commute and my hip/knee aren't as sore as they usually are so that's a win. 

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Noticed a bit of rust under the glass hatch so attacked that today. 

Usual sand/treat then brunox etc 

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@Raizer turned me up a anti doort delete bung

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And turned/polished up a knob for me 

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Ordered some new front shocks as stock ones are pretty soft. Clearance deal on trademe of 90 for the pair so we'll see how good /bad they are 

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Rears are eye type/same (smaller eye) as the shuttle's so not many aftermarket options available. 

I'll try and refit my stock springs onto the damper adjustable mugen shocks as I ground the bush to suit the shuttle arm and they fitted the orthia but were miles too low with the lowering springs

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Yup they look like they'll fit. 

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And fitted 

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Took it for a quick spin around the block and it feels better, will see how it feels with a decent drive. 

Will probably need to do the bushes and dust boots on the ball joints for next wof but I think I'll just give the mechanic everything and get them to do it all at once 

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Boot bolted up. Super barry with nuts and bolts and loctite but it's in

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Yes the bolt holes aren't square etc but they are on the piss on the crv surround too 

I needed to trim the wider piece a bit so it fitted in the console but it's in now 

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My amayama package finally arrived with the lamps and the cam belt cover

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So it's been using a bit of oil. I had hoped it was still running in but not so lucky. 

No external leaks and catch can is doing its job but isn't massively full so I figured it's probably burning it. 

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Yup. Cyl 3 is sad. I don't have the money time or energy to pull it apart again and throw another set of rings and hope so I'll keep feeding it oil until it gets really bad. 

Part of me wants to get another block and get it properly build but thatll be even more time and money. 

On a nicer note the aliexpress speedo corrector seems to power up nicely which is better than the jaycar option. Let's hope it works

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Instructions are super helpful 

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Google translate says there is a up and down button. So I'll go for a drive and see how it goes 

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  • 1 month later...

Airbag light came on again. Couldn't get codes out of it and the reset procedure wouldn't work. 

Grabbed another ecu from zebra and got lucky and grabbed a prelude steering wheel at same time. 

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Airbag light now does what it should. 

The cheap blue shocks ended up feeling worse than the original 300 thousand olld shocks so I swapped the stock springs onto my mugen damper adjustable shocks and fitted them on the front 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Picture less update. 

Did the rest and drivers lower engine mounts today, old ones were pretty soft and I could rock the engine by hand.

Threw another set of spark plugs at it, I'll clean this set and just rotate them if/when they get dirty again. 

I thought about getting another head gasket and pulling it all apart again but I think I'll just go grab another bottom end from pick a part and get that freshened up when money allows. For now it can keep eating oil. 

Also Wanged in some narva led H4 headlight bulbs which are lush. 

 

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Another year of oil burning ahead of me. 

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I'll need to look at the speedo input into the ecu as it'll intermettently have no vtec as ecu won't see the signal. The speedo works 100% of the time so I'm guessing it's in the adapory harness. 

I checked continuity between the ecu and gearbox sensor and it was fine (and worked at the time). 

I'll have to spend more time on it 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Both rear cv boots I replaced have split in the exact same place which is annoying. It'll wait until next year 

The rear exhaust flange was leaking and the multitude of 'lobster cuts' were annoying me. 

Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't 

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Leaky flange sorted now 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had a grand plan of replacing the lower control arm bushes today. 

I ordered a kits while ago. I really rate the energy suspension stuff, got a lot of their bushes on the shuttle 

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Noticed a split tiretod end boot and wrong nut while I was in there 

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Ran out of fucks pretty quickly (and need the car back together to use for work) so just ended up replacing the main rear bushing 

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Managed to cross thread on the the bolts fighting the arm back in so shot to pick a part to grab one. 

Got lucky and there was a civic with the bolt and a near new upper control arm so I grabbed that. (easier than replacing the bushes and ball joint boot) 

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All back together with fresh split pins and a new tierod boot 

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Also was a barry and gave the inner guards a jizzing of underseal 

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I've been dreaming up a rear swaybar mount for the shuttle for a while.

Some high spec 2wd Facelift have a rear swaybar but they are rare as rocking horse shit and looking a factory diagrams will interfere with the diff and driveshaft 

The orthia subframe looks pretty close/almost identical to the shuttle one so I'll start on that and see how it goes 

The crv has(had) a rear swaybar with mounts welded onto the subframe from factory. 

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He crv subframes do bolt into orthias but makes them crv height. 

I've got a couple of end links from a civic and one from the crv. Current imaginings are dummy them up and attempt to replicate the crv brackets and weld something onto the subframe 

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So the intermettent speedo signal to the ecu finally became more permanent. Tested everything and found the adaptor harness had a shit connection. 

Wanged a wire across and taped it as a test and it has worked for a week now. 

When I have more energy and time I'll source some ecu plugs and repin/replace the connectors and put the harness in the bin 

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  • 1 month later...

Pick a part mission was a success. 

Someone had mostly removed a crv swaybar so I pulled the last link off and nabbed it. The Internet says they are the same as the "type r" bars at 26mm thick. It's certainly thicker than the existing one, for $16 I figured I'd give it a shot. 

I'm hoping it'll make it a bit 'flatter' around the corners. 

A fiends in the states with a orthia has confirmed the rear trailing arms from the shittles are exactly the same as the orthia ones so that makes me thing the rear subframe will be the same too. So all going well if I came make a 'bolt in' bracket on the orthia/shuttle they should interchange 

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Also nabbed some obd1 ecu plugs and bit of loom so I can get rid of the harness and speedo issues. I don't think I have any of the crimps to suit so will probably have to cut and solder everything 

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  • 2 weeks later...

For once the Internet didn't lie. 

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Orthia bar top and crv lower. 

And installed.

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I'm glad past me put the flange where I did as it made it easier to get swaybar in and out. Will have to go for a spirited drive somewhere to see if it feels any better 

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