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Chris R's various honda thread including punishing modern non os daily driver updates


chris r

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Becaue everyone likes pics of honda stuff here's some more 

Grabbed some dowls from work that actually fit 

lr5Sd3U.jpeg

Borrowed the 14mm hex of the neighbor and put in the an fitting into the block so I'll actually have a chance at pcv stuff. Next time I'm at lockup I'll grab a catch can and see if it'll fit 

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Tool some brave pills today and got out the extension and the holesaw

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Took a couple of cuts to find where the top was.

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Hind site says dropping the subframe would have made that easier but the cbfs were strong

The shifter lines up nicely with the console which is nice, I might need to cut/weld/adjust the shifter so its not so far back but I'll wait until its bolted in and the steering wheel/column back in

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Cv boots arrived for the rear, Fitted them and the crv diff when I was under there

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CRV diff (right hand side)looks slightly different but bolts in the same

8LCRu1X.jpg

 

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While I was on a pickapart mission I saw there was a accord with a heimholtz reso so I grabbed that - Will have to do some more reading/sciencing to figure out pipe length/sizes etc. There is space above the rear muffler so I should be able to fit it, with the new headers I should be able to fit the cat and the other resonator 

Z8rcsy9.jpg

 

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Mixed success today

Got valves/retainers all sorted today, Went to put the gasket on and it was a tight fit with the dowels, Head gasket didn't survive the process

cMBfqgM.jpg

Cut/welded/seal sealed the block off/shifter mounting plate

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I'll tack/weld the nuts on so its not a mission to change in the future. I'll etch prime it then give it a good dose of underseal so its factory azz gee

All the gears work which is nice

https://imgur.com/DBGSZH5 

 

 

 

 

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j5ISNrF.jpeg

Only got two things ticked off the list today... 

Shifter plate was win and took a few hours, hopefully I can smash most of that list tomorrow.

Ideally want to get to the dyno by the end of the week which is looking like a very ambitious goal at this point 

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So list didn't get much checked off but i got a bunch done. 

Started on exhaust stuff. Expanded the headers a bit so I could slide the pipe in so it'd hold while I figure stuff out. 

u8MyFf3.jpg

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Got flexi in position then the rain set in and I was over laying on puddles so moved onto other stuff 

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Bags of new genuine bits (and some rock auto stuff) 

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Torqued head bolts down and started on the cams/cam caps 

Two small o rings replaced there 

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Got the o ring ready for the middle cam cap but the dowl is missong

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Moved onto sorting the intake manifold stuff 

Fitted fuel rail iacv and throttle 

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Manifold came with a extra coolant line which isn't needed so I Wanged a bunch of epoxy and a bolt into the hole 

OalDjJs.jpeg

Squirted some underseal on the inside of the trans tunnel 

6M5zeW9.jpeg

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13 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

Gotta admit.. At first I didn't understand. But now we are 25 pages deep and I find your stuff quite impressive

Thanks, yes it's a silly honda wagon. I wanted a awd manual vtec wagon so I had to make one hah 

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1 hour ago, chris r said:

Yeah I'm stoked 

Spec is original b20 block/bottom end, b18c vtec head, crv manual gearbox and rear diff (so ratio is the same) 

 

Any up rated CR with the change in head? does it feel quicker to the butt dyno

What was the tuning method/ecu your doing again?

Assuming wof wont be an issue?

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16 minutes ago, shrike said:

Any up rated CR with the change in head? does it feel quicker to the butt dyno

What was the tuning method/ecu your doing again?

Assuming wof wont be an issue?

It's still on base tune so conservative, I'll be getting it tuned on Neptune (socketed/Chipped factory ecu). Butt dyno says it feels a bit "flat" but again not tuned/ haven't checked timing etc etc

Compression should be 10.2:1 with this head.

I'm hoping no wof issues, I'm more worried about the manual conversion stuff tbh

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3 minutes ago, chris r said:

It's still on base tune so conservative, I'll be getting it tuned on Neptune (socketed/Chipped factory ecu). Butt dyno says it feels a bit "flat" but again not tuned/ haven't checked timing etc etc

Compression should be 10.2:1 with this head.

I'm hoping no wof issues, I'm more worried about the manual conversion stuff tbh

Ok nice sure you'll get a few more gains when its tuned/run in etc

Nice so a small bump up from the factory compression (Factory seems to be from 8.8 - 9.8 from what I could find)

Is the manual gearing higher or lower then the auto (ie is it revving higher or lower at say 50/100km)

Fingers crossed they don't notice the conversion, assuming it looks stock enough yeah?

Any plans for some boost later on or just drive it as is?

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6 minutes ago, shrike said:

Ok nice sure you'll get a few more gains when its tuned/run in etc

Nice so a small bump up from the factory compression (Factory seems to be from 8.8 - 9.8 from what I could find)

Is the manual gearing higher or lower then the auto (ie is it revving higher or lower at say 50/100km)

Fingers crossed they don't notice the conversion, assuming it looks stock enough yeah?

Any plans for some boost later on or just drive it as is?

The vtec heads flow much better so all things being the same it should gain power compared to before, but more importantly I get more doort noises 

Manual crv gearing is higher compared to the auto (or manual orthia) it's revving higher/speedo is reading about 15% faster. 

Hopefully once I track down a stock intake arm it'll look more factory, its all bolt in parts (except the shifter) I'm hoping with a boot I'll get away with it with a friendly shop

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Rangid up the catch can with leftover hoses/fittings from my hoard. It was a cheap catch can but looks exactly the same internally as the mishimoto cans so finally a aliexpress win 

yEiPscs.jpg

Outlet goes into the resonator section of the airbox 

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Sits nicely where the factory massive resonator chamber sat 

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I've run a - 10 hose down under the rad for a drain for the can. Didn't want to buy a bung so I made one. Hopefully the orb fitting seals well enough 

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The tuner popped around and had a nosey, was happy enough with how everything is. I just need to check the iat sensor in the morning as it was reading a bit high 

Looking a bit more factory ish. I'll try and mount the factory heat shield over the headers 

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I've rangid a intake pipe up while I wait for a factory one to arrive 

It'll go onto the dyno some time next week. Its the 'heartbreaker' mustang dyno which reads lower than others but it's just a number at the end of the day 

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