Testament Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Rookie your car (with a long wheelbase and narrow track width) is the least affected by the downsides of a locked diff. Mine sledged the front heaps on corner entry, and mid corner or corner exit if you went over a small bump at the front the diff would push the car forwards. Night and day difference after changing away from that. All of this would be even worse in a starlet which has a proportionally wider track / shorter wheelbase. A $400 torsen is well worth the trouble of fitting. My wheelbase and track width is almost identical to a KP60 btw. there some stuff about about ackerman angles in the front steering as to how much of an arc the rear has to go through too 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Lock diffs are an option, if you can drive aggressively,throttle steer and it suits your style, sweet. They have some serious downsides, I mean there's a reason they invented differentials in the first place. Because a locker sure as hell ain't a diff. But NZV8's run them, we spend our entire season pulling axles in and out and the diffs eventually give up usually with the internals finding there way to open air. But they are whales and running very soft compound slicks, with huge amounts of grip. Personally I wouldn't run a locker, but that doesn't mean much, 30 secs of watching Markku's Hampton video is proof enough I can't drive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Well I may have to fit a Microtec into the budget as they have offered to take my loom away and give it back ready to run. I really have taken a lot of enjoyment in the discussion and my race car builder mate who I trust with all handling decisions will not let me run a locked diff as that will lose seconds per lap and you can't get consistant handling with them generally. He is exceptionally talented at getting unconventional cars running very quickly, not so much additional power, more about handling. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 microguess? I thought you were in chch, wouldnt it be better to go with link having their support just around the corner? Id rather wire it in myself or at least have someone do it locally so if its not right you have it in your control rather than having to send things to aussie? I find it odd about inconsistent handling, a locked diff is locked and its going to do the same thing every time you might not like it and it might lose time depending on the car and driver but it's going to do the same thing every time. But regardless if your mate is lending you a hand working on it and has had good results its probably worth listening to him if you want the help! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 microguess? I thought you were in chch, wouldnt it be better to go with link having their support just around the corner? Id rather wire it in myself or at least have someone do it locally so if its not right you have it in your control rather than having to send things to aussie? I find it odd about inconsistent handling, a locked diff is locked and its going to do the same thing every time you might not like it and it might lose time depending on the car and driver but it's going to do the same thing every time. But regardless if your mate is lending you a hand working on it and has had good results its probably worth listening to him if you want the help! Microtec have a local and it was him that offered his services, he has supplied quite a few for different people around these parts. Personally i have had no experience with them but if he reckons he can do it then I trust him, I can do some tuning myself as well. Locked diffs are as consistent as the track surface, and will put more heat variance into the tires as well. Sure I could overcome it by driving hard but all that does is wear out components and the diff will eventually brake or axles will, then you need heavier components whic adds drag and weight. If my mate reckons its worth up to 2 seconds a lap then it is. His favourite saying is "It takes many crumbs to make a cake". A good race car is made up of many things and weight is always a compromise of what cost. He has helped and built many race cars including a certain V8 starlet Cheers, and thanks for the interest and comments. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Ok so the power is up to the ecu, fuel, injectors and coils but i don't have spark. Any hints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 What is the ignition trigger doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 It's ok it fired, so now I need to regulate the fuel. My fault as I pulled {P} plug slightly out of the ECU last night to make easier than pulling out and back in all the time and yup you guessed it!! Watch this space and thanks for the quick response mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 After all this it is getting very close now, the MAF I have won't work as if it is plugged in it wont run.??? With it out it will rev to maybe 2500rpm max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 is your maf just jammed into that intake hose? looks like its backwards to start with. from what i hear they run best with stock airbox also. beams weirdos (roman dave, etc..) on here will be able to tell you more 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 If it's backwards that might be an easy fix I put it so that the wider area was at the front? The engine dies with it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 It is backwards for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Don't these things need some sneaky shit with the fuel pressure reg. (normally an internally regulated pump or in tank thingee) surprised it will even get to 2500RPM without running like a dog with the AFM unplugged, my evo barely gets off idle before complainng. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Thanks kpr and Raizer, I will turn it around and test tonight and update. As I don't have a alternator, tacho or any gauges hooked up yet, the 2500rpm was only a guess so it may be lower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Beams Weirdo, reporting in! Yeah you'll be in for a shitter of a time with the MAF sensor mounted like that. It needs to sit in exactly the correct diameter pipe, and having it before/after a bend makes it shit the bed too.If you want to save yourself a gigantic ball ache then you're best to get a factory airbox and cut the housing pipe part out of it. Or find a pipe that's exactly the same inside diameter, and fit it to that.It's best to have a decent length of straight pipe before and after it, to minimise turbulence. On what you've got there, I would see if you can fit it as close towards the pod filter as possible, rather than close to the bend. For what it's worth I have never been able to get my motor running properly with the factory ECU, with anything apart from a factory airbox.BUT it's mostly low load/low rpm where it causes problems, high rpm it more or less comes right so could be fine.However some people have success with using aftermarket kits by HKS or whatever which have a cast housing for the MAF sensor as part of it. They come up on trademe etc every once in a while but are a bit spendy when new. Cheapest/easiest way will be finding the correct diameter of the factory inlet, and getting a PVC pipe or something the same diameter and using that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pe-arce Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 I've got one of those cast ones and also a factory airbox sitting around if you want either to try? I bought them incase i needed them prior to getting quads. Hit me up if your keen. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 pe-arce.... Hell yea, I will flick you a PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pe-arce Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Any updates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Any updates? Estima Diff was narrowed 80mm to account fo the TRD Kit and different offset for the 15" wheels. Made a decision on the diff setup, decided to change to panhard rod for now instead of Watts Linkage mainly to see that I have a good setup for this and can do the other later when I am happy. I welded on the bottom mounts to it and banged in some new springs to raise the height a little, just need to weld the spring mounts on and then the single top adjustable arm which will mount over the tunnel. Still need to make the arm adjustable yet. Once the diff is in then I can mount the rear discs on and check for final fit. I am making this a multi-sport car so have put the highest profile wheels on to get it setup. My mate came around on the weekend and cut all the excess wiring out as well as making the loom for the guages and another for the obd2 which I will use a touchpad for using. I bought an Aluminium EVO Radiator and I am waiting on a new intake pipe so it clears the radiator before installing it and changing the airbox. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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