Popular Post BlownCorona Posted July 2, 2014 Popular Post Share Posted July 2, 2014 finally took some photos of some of the stuff ive started hoarding for this project! very loosely based on an Austin 7 special, as in i bought a 7 grill surround and looked at some 7 pictures, and now im just chopping metal up into shaped i like/am inspired by. tonight i took to my lengths of steel with a drop saw and a tape measure and started to lay everything out and get a visualization of what im actually doing. its accidentally massive... and this is the revised version after my first layout turned out to be the same size as a full sized car haha. anyway pictures! The GSX250 engine that will power this death trap. ive looked online at all the 'drift carts' boasting about 6-7 hp.... this engine has 30hp and a 6spd gearbox. sure to be interesting. GSX250 circa 80s spec 30hp 6spd manual twin cam twin CV carb electric start the OG austin 7 grill and the 110mm wide tires i will be running on 17" motorbike rims. 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Looking good! That front is mint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUL8R Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Do you want me to see if I can pull the grill slats out of the Wolseley to cut down for this josh, or mesh painted black what you will be using? Also, family member has a Austin 7 if you'd like any particular photos at some point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 I was planning on using mesh painted black, because I'm sure you know the grill is actually the radiator on those things haha. I will see how it looks and go from there. I'm jealous of the actual Austin 7! I'd love to build a proper 7 special one day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 VERY COOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 welded the chassis yesterday and also bent up a couple of the body ribs so i could start to get an idea of what its going to look like and how best to make the other parts. will probably make the front suspension wishbones today and possibly look at engine mounts 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 Having no internet at the moment has made updates pretty hard, but i have slowly been working away on this. I cant remember if i said or not, but i made the decision to put the engine in the rear tail cone. the gsx engine is perfect for the car, but its huge, and i just couldn't fit the engine, steeling, controls, and my legs in the front. so since the last update, ive spent ages mulling over suspension design, and settled on building a super simple single wishbone setup, using old moped shocks that i had around, im not sure how the camber change over the movement of the wishbone will affect driving, but i want to get it driving so i can test this and other things, and ill make revisions if necessary, ive also mounted the engine and today i finally got around to spinning the engine up with the starter motor, jumped off my car, she spins freeley and sounds like good compression, so im excited to wire it up and run it properly. Heaps of welds to grind back! but its strong as fuck! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUL8R Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 You could make the front A arms adjustible - by having them bolted onto the chassis rather than welding the Angle Iron you have there.. Would give you Adjustible castor as well as camber - by putting shims in behind the mounts to pack it further out & then doing bolts up tight. Effectively the same as say Pajero's/Terranos etc. Failing that if you put rod ends in then you can adjust that way... wind the hiem further inwards or outwards Triangulate as much as you can, especially if you can the front shock mounts being a high load bearing part. - Id be inclined to do some more bracing with the motor too. What're you doing for a spring? Single ecliptic leaf? : Ie this is from a corvette; Hope it doesn't sound like criticism, you're going well, just everyone has different ideas and ways of going about things.. Looking great Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 doesn't come off that way at all, this is my first venture into scratch building a car and setting up geometry etc. and you with your tank of a stock car are more than qualified to offer advice! what benefit will being able to shim out the a arm mounts give? wouldn't there be risk of the mounting bolts seizing/fouling up? i will however be using rod ends to allow of adjusting the toe, and im considering the best option for building in camber adjustment. i agree with the triangulation stuff, things that are currently square, will be getting gussets or other bracing, its just that ive gotta make sure nothing gets in the way of anything else, so its kind of developing as i build in more and more features. the engine will also be receiving more bracing as you say. as for the springs, the moped shocks that are sitting on it now, are spring and shock units, so a nice easy option for hopefully a good suspension function. the hardest bit about this car is that space is a real issue, so getting parts to both cope with the work load (larger than a go kart) but fit in the space can be quite hard. edit: i was going to use a leaf spring like that corvette, going across the whole front end, but i still need dampening or the front end would end up really bouncy, so i ended up going with the coil over style units i had Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 How big are the wheels gonna be? And what height will the hub be in relation to that arm? If the hub comes directly off the arm and your using 14" motorbike wheels, it'll be high as Fuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 17 inch rims haha, BUT the hub wont be perpendicular to the arm if that makes sense? the A arm wont be horrizontal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Kinda like this, except the A arm will move and cause terrible/interesting dynamic camber changes, (sorry i have no idea how to make linked images smaller) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 I built a trolley for that RedBull trolley race (in 4 weeks - chirst, never again!) with Single A-arms and hub solid mounted. The steering and camber issues we encountered means id NEVER do it that way again. Luckily for us is that the suspension i chose wasn't stiff enough so it ended up being solid mounted and we eliminated those issues haha. Id be inclined to copy your sample pic above or make it double A-arm. Also, If you haven't already please look into steering arm angles. I didn't at first and had all kinds of ackerman angle issues. I bit of a google and an OOOOOOH of course moment it was re jigged and we had it almost right, Besides that, Awesome work, I have all the parts for one of these but they are all attached to things that are not going to donate their parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 There is an off roader called the piranha that has solid mounted hubs and it works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 There is an off roader called the piranha that has solid mounted hubs and it works fine. That's because the arms pivot from almost the centre as does the steering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 If this was mine i'd be building it with two small leaf springs on a solid axle i think, Or if i was going IFS id build something along the lines of a ford TTB set up. Still get camber change but it's reduced as the arm is so much longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 The steering and camber issues we encountered means id NEVER do it that way again. Luckily for us is that the suspension i chose wasn't stiff enough so it ended up being solid mounted and we eliminated those issues haha. care to elaborate on the issues? the main reason why i ended up choosing this design is because im only going to have very minimal travel. so camber issues shouldn't to too pronounced. but ive not made anything permanent yet so still room for reworking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 edited because im pretty sure this idea was retarded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 care to elaborate on the issues? the main reason why i ended up choosing this design is because im only going to have very minimal travel. so camber issues shouldn't to too pronounced. but ive not made anything permanent yet so still room for reworking. Ill try explain it without pictures. It depends on your steering setup. Ours used a Gokart style setup. So steering column has a tag hanging off it which then has the 2 tierods out to the steering arms. Then we had independent A-arms mounted on the side of the chassis. Now imagine the radius the arms go through under travel. Then the radius the tie rods go through under travel. They are wildly different due to one pivoting from the centre of chassis and being much longer. So even the slightest suspension travel meant HUGE toe changes. Im sure there is a picture that shows what i mean. This works because the pivot points for the arms is central. My knowledge is all from quick googles i had to do during the rushed build i did. Im sure with more time you can nut it all out and build something lush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 hmmm yes that makes perfect spanner in the works sense... thanks for bringing this to my attention 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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