westy Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 I have talked to a friend of mine in some depth about this, all he did was spin up an extended bronze bush for the crank spigot, and bolted a bit of 12mm steel plate onto the block, which he had vertically in an engine stand, then then plonked the gearbox onto it and marked the holes, drilled and tapped and away he went. I think it has been in his car for 10 years now and he hasn't had any trouble. This was to put a w50 behind a turbo 4age. This is my plan when/if I go ahead with the V8 to I6 box. Cant be too hard right? right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Na, he said it worked great hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 using a Bush to align crank and input is a lovely idea. edit. yea Spence I ment 1uz dammit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Here's a HAMB thread on building a steel BH. Looks quite achievable. At least steel welding is easier. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328096 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1scort Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 I have made one it's not quite finished but I cut down a g52 bell housing and cut up a 20valve auto and mashed the two together the concept works fine in my head but yet to test it just takes some time to centre the input shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Here's a HAMB thread on building a steel BH. Looks quite achievable. At least steel welding is easier. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328096 There was a guy in my welding course who built a steel one. Got each flange cut. Lined up engine to box and braced. Filled in with thick sheet steel. Don't know how it ended up alignment wise. Would need to be welded slowly and spread out to avoid warping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 I have talked to a friend of mine in some depth about this, all he did was spin up an extended bronze bush for the crank spigot, and bolted a bit of 12mm steel plate onto the block, which he had vertically in an engine stand, then then plonked the gearbox onto it and marked the holes, drilled and tapped and away he went. I think it has been in his car for 10 years now and he hasn't had any trouble. This was to put a w50 behind a turbo 4age. sounds like a much better option than a perspex or wooden template. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 There's also a AW11 mr2 build documented where he fits a SW20 turbo gearbox to a 1UZ and he did the above, edit - Steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr1600 Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 There's also a AW11 mr2 build documented where he fits a SW20 turbo gearbox to a 1UZ and he did the above, big chunk of alloy I think. The extreme 4wd guys do this also Mount a camry gearbox to longitudinal 1uz then one shaft to each diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 There's also a AW11 mr2 build documented where he fits a SW20 turbo gearbox to a 1UZ and he did the above, big chunk of alloy I think. that was also vvega. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 I used 12mm alloy plate and machined steel inserts. Machined a sleeve to hold input shaft tight and central. Machined central datum points thingees that sat on input shaft and in crank. If you are handy with a scribe, large verniers and or dividers and a centre punch you'll get it as accurate as anything else. Had to space flywheel back to suit starter pinion. See halfway down page.. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28896-yoeddynzs-1968-vauxhall-vivalution-iv/page-4?hl=housetruck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Dude having read that it seems super easy! So the ring you made for the input shaft to hold it central. Did you just hsve that butt up onto the input shaft snouty bit? One thing im going to have to do is make a spacer to go from the gear box input shaft into the spigot hole on the crank. Made harder by the fact autos are a bot shorter on the shafts. So awesome. Think I have a plan. Plan is to try do as much out of the car as possible so will be getting another bell housing as a mock up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 And i guess to sum up. Motor im talking about is the toyota hemi v8. And use a toyota a43d auto. Toyota estimas use an a43de trans which has a longer bell housing as the input area has more length. So will get bell housing, starter, and ring gear. Machine bell housing to suit correct length and make adapter plate with that. Also going to have to mess around with starter motor location. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 You might find a better starter to fit.. maybe a smaller high torque one allowing more freedom to shift starter about. Just measure where you need pinion once you have the box bolted up then pop to wreakers. I now think I could have done this and saved using a spacer to shift flywheel back. Could have made new holder for release bearing shifting it forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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