SOHC Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 I was driving the lathe a bit hard and smashed the tool into a weld and cracked the headstock bearing clamp. What should I do? braze it? cry? I won't find a new one. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 Yea bro, gas weld it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 There is a special technique for welding cast iron properly. It involves heating it up and cooling it etc so I would take it to an engineer familiar with welding cast iron and let him do it. Problem is afterwards it may no longer be true - depending how critcal the alignment is of that part or whether you can adjust your cuts to counter any possible variance will determine how this effects your work on the lathe.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 My lathe has the same style clamps, both have done the same thing. It now whips horrendously. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 braze it man. it will distort like all buggery but you might be able to fix it up after welding. just trying to think who i know around the town that is an old fullah and knows how best to weld cast iron. ummmm, let me know if you want the name of someone to take it to and ill have a think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 These guys? http://www.weldingspecialties.co.nz/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted January 14, 2013 Author Share Posted January 14, 2013 If its ok to braze I would have a go, Need to go to BOC and get some rods and flux, maby if I clamp it real well it won't move too much. the lathe is pretty worn, so not too worried Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted January 14, 2013 Author Share Posted January 14, 2013 These guys? http://www.weldingspecialties.co.nz/ Lol no, they suck hard at anything, been there a couple times, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Theres a guy in CHCH (Or was pre quake anyway) who is a feind at welding stuff. He welded a broken cast iron seat for my work. He's a bit of a madman too. Has big swords he's made hanging in his workshop. spent 10 mins yarning bout work, and 30 mins talaking bout his blades. GC though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 had some experience welding up broken machine parts welded up completely borked guides on bandsaw at my old work under guidence of clued up "olde" school engineer, process was V out the crack then get it nice and hot with gas torch pre heat a stainless welding rod (just getting it hot on scrap works) then squeeze crack closed and weld it up and let it cool off in air. done plenty cast stuff this way now seems to work well and last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 that tig welding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Arc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 I'd have thought stainless was the last thing to use. There are special rods available for cast stuff obviously. If it were me- because I'd want to to function properly afterwards- I would weld up the crack, then fly cut the hole oversize in a mill. Then shrink in a bush that is oversize in od and undersized in id. Then weld bush in, then fly cut Id to correct size again in mill. Or failing that I'd make a whole new piece out if steel/ prob easier and will last forever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Double post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 an old welder was saying he use stainless steel rods on all the mild steel welding jobs, I should have asked why? The lathe is fixed now, I ground a deep v along the crack, nearly right though, got some rods and flux from BOC, heated the whole thing up till all the paint burnt off and brazed it, have it a file up, and a scrape. Its working better than it ever did must have been cracked before I even got the lathe, the work doesn't ride up on the tool anymore and I can adjust the bearing now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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