sgtjackass Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Basically I want to be schooled on intercooler piping. HP levels are 250 ponies. What size piping is right and what are the consequences of going too small/large How much restriction does joiners, welds and bends cause. Is there a 'right way' to build intercooler piping systems. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 http://lmgtfy.com/?q=intercooler+piping+basics too easy basically keep it as sort as possible, too big creates too much volume/lag, too small has the obvious restrictions I have a front facing plenum for a EJ20G/up to 1998 of your keen to chop a meter of piping out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtjackass Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 Its for a 4g63 in evo flavour so ej20 stuff will be no help. Cheers will have a read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Also the less silicone the better, you don't want your engine bay looking like a Las Vegas strip club. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unhuman Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Or more so because there are less possible points for boost leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Mostly for looks hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 I don't agree. go 3" tube because it looks boss. your pipe work needs to look logical but don't stress about tube length or capacity. the volume of the pipe work is fuck all compared to the volume of air that the engine is consuming. and nothing wrong with silicone joiners. i know pplz who have spent heaps getting tube welded for little reason. quality joiners ( and expansion/ contraction joiners where needed) with quality clamps will cause no probs without heaps of boost. if you need to- swage lines or dots into tube ends see my tech vid thread for info on making a swaging tool cheaply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 lol 3" really? good luck with that adding an extra 2.3Liters of air to compress also good ducting on your FMIC/whatever IC gets good gains : running without a bumer for example the air will take easiest route and go around the IC rather than thru it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 yeh no point going any bigger than throttle body. i dunno how misti's work, but guessing they have around a 60mm throttle. 2.5" tube is slightly bigger. so will cause no restriction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 lol 3" really? good luck with that adding an extra 2.3Liters of air to compress also good ducting on your FMIC/whatever IC gets good gains : running without a bumer for example the air will take easiest route and go around the IC rather than thru it what part needs luck? 2.3 litres is nothing for an engine that's consuming thousands of litres per min. agree that you will not gain anything but as I said it looks sweet (fake oil cooler anyone?) bigger motor but that 3" pipe work cost me sfa and worked well. no welds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 That looks shite. Massive pipe overcompensating for something? Also looks way better when you don't have joiners every 20cm 2.5 will be plenty large Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 good luck as in : getting the piping thru holes in the car without cutting/requiring cert if the wof guy doesn't like it/behind lights/general fitting of a 3" pipe over stuff like ABS and around the intake/past the battery etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 My evo is making 230 wheel kw on 2.5 inch piping. I would say anything over 350kw you may want to go a little larger. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 what part needs luck? 2.3 litres is nothing for an engine that's consuming thousands of litres per min. agree that you will not gain anything but as I said it looks sweet (fake oil cooler anyone?) [car] bigger motor but that 3" pipe work cost me sfa and worked well. no welds Where'd ya get the piping and stuff from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 joiners and clamps, TM. alloy bends 45/90 degree from ulrich down maui st. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Ah mint. Might go price some shit up. I need to drop this radiator off to you sometime too for welding stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 The alloy bends from trader are way cheaper than ulrich ones. Just be sure you get the thickest ones so better for welding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch.W Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 yeah and go to dsr turbo.co.nz for cheap silicone joiners. they come in black iswell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil_si Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Tube bending in east tamaki for the bends, Use a crox tool or swage to roll a bead on the end of the pipe, never over tighten T bolt clamps they distort the alloy, With a good rolled bead on the end of the pipe normal hose clamps work perfectly fine I always try to weld all but 1 join each side, less silicon means less leaks, less potiential hoses to blow off, to split etc, having a join means the pipe work will come apart and make installation easier. Some customers dont want any joins, and can be a nightmare to get it in and out, Alloy is the best to dissipate heat, it doesnt take much external air flow to cool alloy pipe Stainless heat soaks and takes ages to cool down, 3" is huge, i only use 3" on 2jz's, big 13b turbos etc, 2.5 on the majority of stuff is ok, did have a customer mention it resulted in slower boost response with 2.5" piping on an evo 3, 21/4 bit of an awkard size to buy in alloy 2" often only used from to match turbo outlet thru to intercooler Jamex in penrose have a good range of bends, as do scarles, and dsr, Alert motorsport do samco, but very expensive compared to the generic stuff, the quality of samco is definately a lot better thou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtjackass Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 Cheers for the replies. Rather than going custom, i have ordered a universal kit from redline. $150 gets me 2x 90, 2x45, 2x180 and 2 strait alloy pieces, 8 straight joiners and 16 t clips. Cant really go wrong. The plan is to one-piece as much of it as I can with a local guy doing the TIG and beading. Wish me luck! I will have to put a 3" holesaw through a support panel, but it is only tacked on from factory so shouldn't be an issue. Pics to come Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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