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DIY Fuel injection thread.


yoeddynz

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Lol wtf is wrong with people how does gearbox temp magically make it grow another cog lol

 

Now if it made things hotter or cooler then ratios could change, though you would be talking about less than 0.08mm on diameter depending on the size of the gear and the temperature difference, (which would be absorbed by backlash in the gears).
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The fact that he speaks so authoritatively about is what makes it funny.

 

I'm sure some people will buy into his bullshit though.

 

It's a pity that often there's a financial incentive for sales people to either not know what they are talking about, or just spout some bullshit that they know is false.

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Lol wtf is wrong with people how does gearbox temp magically make it grow another cog lol

 

Well you see.... the oil increases the operating temperature by 6750 degrees which you multiply by 0.0000072 (steel expansion ratio to temp) to give 0.0486 which you multiply by 4 cogs = 0.1944 * 100 = 19.4% increase in the volume of the steel gears which reduces your ratio.

The idiot.... it's 19.4% not 20%, guess we can't all be perfect.

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Nah that post was a year old, so hopefully come to his senses since then.

 

Hey question/ramble, people...

 

I'm looking to calibrate some sensors. Initally an air temp sensor, water temp sensor, and a MAP sensor. They're currently 'good enough' but I want them to be more accurate.

I just need a two point reading for each, at each end of the scale more or less.

 

What's the easiest way I would be able to go about this?

 

Finding current atmospheric pressure is easy, as I just read the kpa output on the ECU's Barometric pressure sensor and then measure voltage output from the map sensor.

 

But I'm wanting to accurately generate a given amount of vaccum at the other end of the scale. Need a magnehelic gauge I guess?

 

For the temperature sensors I'm thinking that perhaps a thermometer will do the trick, and then put the water sensor in hot water and watch it as it cools.

 

And for the air temp sensors, make a box that I can heat up or cool down (blow a hair dryer in, or put it in the fridge) that the thermometer is in too.

Anyone got any better ideas than as per above?

I'd like to calibrate the MAF sensor too, but I think that's in the too hard basket.

 

 

Another thing is....

 

Hmmm if I wind my window down and the internal pressure of the car changes... Is the ECU going to adjust fuel slightly or not. Heh.

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Temp sensors air and water easy way to do is to put under your arm with a thermometer untill resistance stabilizes then take readings for one point. Then hang in freezer and read 2nd point etc. Map sensor youll need a decient vaccum gauge teed into it then check with motor running what its output voltage is at given point then use atmosphere preasure as your 2nd point.

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In my car with windows up it goes from 101.7kpa when the car is still, to 101kpa at top speed on the straight.

How much difference does this make in my case? fuck all, but its adjusting values in the opposite way it should. As air inlet would get slightly higher pressure at speed not lower.

 

If you've ever been in an open seater where the airflow is trying to lift your helmet off... Could make enough of a difference to put off your tune a little bit perhaps.

Ill do a trackday with windows down and see if my engine explodes haha :D

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I dont think it does a test fire. does running lean at start make it backfire? maybe I need to let the pump prime for the full time before cranking. I did notice that pressure drops away instantly as soon as the pump is turned off, not sure if this is correct or not though

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Yeap racecar at work would do that due to wasted spark and overlap. Retarding the timing on cranking lessened it a fair bit so give that a try.

Also yeah being too lean on cranking meant heaps of backfires. Maxed out the cold crank enrichment and was also better. So try two things.

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It should maintain pressure for awhile with the pump off quite happily if your pressure regulator is working properly. I don't think it should be able to flow backwards through the pump, but then I suppose different pumps behave in different ways

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im getting an inlet backfire at most startups, what would cause this?

If its megasquirt then mostlikely a lost sync during cranking will cause this mainly due to volt drop whilst cranking. That or cranking advance set too high. Itll read advance from cranking settings not your table if youve set up like this. If not then set up cranking advance to lower than what the advance is set to on your table whilst cranking. Could be that or at say 500rpm 60-100 kpa on your advance table is set too high. But most likely a sync loss.

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