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DIY Fuel injection thread.


yoeddynz

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Thats well over 20% lean of what I'd aim for, goes way beyond the value in the IAT trim so I'd consider it to point at least partly to something other than that - whether it's tune (easy to tell, is it ever on target?) or some other issue possibly?

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Yeah who knows what is going on with the closed loop, he has dropped on a +10% fuel map and things look better. it doesn't seem to be getting quite as hot either..

 

 

Targets might not be too bad IE: 10 psi boost, target 12.1AFR - 4.5% fuel trim, ECT ignition trim -6.5 degrees, IAT ignition trim .5 deg reading 14.1 AFR..

 

No idea how good the closed loop is on the G3 I tend to roll open loop on my stuff.

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  • 2 months later...

Hey guys

 

Im looking at ECU's for my FE3. Ive been offered a Link G1 V5 with loom but have also been looking at a Megasquirt 2.2 with a 3.0 board.

Bearing in mind i would like to run sequential injection, the engine will run CAS, I have 4age ITB's on, Will be upgrading the cams to 272ish later on

 

So to some questions

 

Can i run bot CAS and trigger? And what benefit will it make?

What runs a better alpha N code to run nice?

How does the Megasquirt fuelling control compare with the Link?

 

Cheers

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Neither the early link or the ms2 will do full sequential.

The ms2 can do semisequential squirting the injectors twice or four times per cycle so some of the fuel is injected on the back of the valve before intake valve opening.

If you want proper sequential you need a modern link or ms3 or something else haltech/autronic/motec etc etc etc

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I've been planning a throttle body fuel injection system for the starlet.

 

Wanting to do efi only and let the distributor deal with all the ignition details

 

Does anyone know if the microsquirt will be happy to just take the tacho signal from the ignition system to tell it how fast the engine is going, instead of having to install a crank position sensor?

 

A microsquirt would be ideal due to cheapness, not being overpowered and ease of waterproofing. Looks like I will be able to route it through the hole up under the passenger's side guard (has a splash guard to protect the wiring inside there/stop shit getting in there and rusting the car out) an bolt it straight on behind the radiator overflow bottle without having to do anything to the body of the car.

 

I'm hoping to have a fairly minimal system that looks like a standard carburetor at a glance/someone will actually have to look under the air cleaner to actually see that something is up.

 

Planning on using the bottom flange of a carburetor with the two throttle butterflies linked together, with a TPS.

Middle section will be replaced with a cast/machined injector housing (one injector per butterfly) and high pressure fuel circuit it will be made of three pieces to aid in manufacturing. Patterns will be 3D printed and then it will be sand cast.

Top part of carburetor will remain, but will be bored out/choke valve removed. Fuel will be fed from original mechanical fuel pump to the original inlet, the float valve will control the fuel level around the electric boost pump. The boost pump will provide high pressure to the rail. There will be a regulator and the fuel will be recirculated through the small high pressure circuit. I may have to machine some cooling fins onto the system in order to reduce the risk of the fuel temperature getting too high.

 

 

What I am looking for is a small fuel pump which will be able to provide the pressure required by the injectors. I am also looking for two injectors, I reckon that two 4A-GE injectors will do the job. I have considered ordering some injectors from aliexpress but I have heard bad stories. Also looking for a wide band O2 sensor, MAP sensor and an intake air temp sensor.

 

Here's a shitty quick sketch:

11329659_10153370065992049_750110567_n.j

 

Reasons for doing this are pretty much just because I want to apply the shit I've been learning at uni and also just because I don't really like carburetors that much. I just want something that will keep itself in tune once it is set up.

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Hey guys

 

Im looking at ECU's for my FE3. Ive been offered a Link G1 V5 with loom but have also been looking at a Megasquirt 2.2 with a 3.0 board.

Bearing in mind i would like to run sequential injection, the engine will run CAS, I have 4age ITB's on, Will be upgrading the cams to 272ish later on

 

So to some questions

 

Can i run bot CAS and trigger? And what benefit will it make?

What runs a better alpha N code to run nice?

How does the Megasquirt fuelling control compare with the Link?

 

Cheers

 

yey, FE-DOHC!

 

If you're awesome you could maybe get a Jaguar... how DIY are you?

CAS + Trigger is what I will be running also.

Depends on resolution of both trigger and CAS.

I'll probably just use the CAS to synchronise where in the 4 cycle it is for sequential.

 

My opinion = MS < Link.

 

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yey, FE-DOHC!

 

If you're awesome you could maybe get a Jaguar... how DIY are you?

CAS + Trigger is what I will be running also.

Depends on resolution of both trigger and CAS.

I'll probably just use the CAS to synchronise where in the 4 cycle it is for sequential.

 

My opinion = MS < Link.

 

 

Indeed, havent got it running yet so should be interesting.

 

So i shouldnt have any problems running a CAS and say a hall effect sensor? Provided they sync? Use with Ford EDIS?

Might have to re-look at the whole sequential, might be semi sequential ordeal or what ever it wants to run on...

 

Why Link over megasquirt out of curiosity?

 

Again how is the megasquirt Alpha-N Tune compared to Link Alpha-N tune? (For 4age 43mm itb's?)

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I have no clue as to the Alpha-N.
I assume you only doing it because ITB?

Don't trust a mean vacuum reading?
I'd do it that way, just adjust my tubing until I got rid of the spikes/pulses.
It's not like everything is always perfect across an intake in a plenum either and you take a mean reading from that :)

Sequential vs batch = not much difference performance/efficiency wise except at lower rpm/throttle application.
I'm going to do it just for shits and giggles and wouldn't an LPG TURBO BE AWESOME!! Said the dreamer.

Link over MS? Because MS pretended to be something they're not.
I don't like some of their materials and some of their features and Link is supporting Kiwis doing ECU stuff! Yay! Even if they stiffed me $500 :( My write up on Link has become the official "how to" on modifying high level tacho's so I'm pretty happy about the peer review and forum there. The resale will be good. The build quality is good. The loom is good :) The support is good. The info is good.

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alpha n  just means,  load is tps.  instead of manifold pressure.  either ecu will run it no drama's

 

its not what ms or link can or cant do.   link is just a far more refined product.   this is what the extra cost if for.  along with the above  points bangbug stated. 

 

feels like i said it on every page in this topic.   but short version is;  link just works. wire it up, configure and tune.       ms, will do the same if you get lucky and use proven ms trigger setup. otherwise be prepared to lose hours of/off your life

 

 

most people who rate ms, haven't used a link. 

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 Me personally..I went with MS because I liked the idea of building as much of my car as possible/learning at the same time. Maybe I was lucky or maybe because I took my time and crossed my t's dotted my i's because my MS setup has been pretty bloody stress free given its my ist foray into injection and I went into it all as a complete novice.  And I saved $1000plus in the process which to me is a shit load of money.  Best bit however is a the total satisfaction that comes from piecing together a ECU from hundreds of bits in little bags and having the car start on the third turn of the key then driving it very soon after. That in the world of building your own stuff is pretty cool stuff me thinks. 

 

But hey- if you dont have patience and you have lots of monies to throw about then go the easy route and buy a link.

 

The free EMS stuff that Fred is into is the next level that has me interested but I fear I dont have that amount of patience or geeky skills.

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When building for 4 cylinders there may be $500 in it between a MS and a Link now.
And much less if you buy an assembled MS from Tardme ;)
The atom dropped $500 since I brought one, it's hard to beat value for money. (actually before I fitted it! DAMN IT! but at least I could claim back the GST :))

If we were talking 6 cylinders or more then I'd tend towards running a MS because you could save 2k... but if I were running either of those I wouldn't be so $ concious I guess as they're going to burn $$$$$$ in fuel so why not burn some on a fancy ecu ;) unless it were an old dog I was adding injection to..... so I guess it all balances somewhere in our minds based on individual circumstances.

 

Since I'm a dreamer I'd love to run dual fuel (LPG baby!) on my FE-DOHC and I'm pretty sure the Atom can cope, just haven't looked at running both sequentially, I'd have to swap injector drives through a switch since running LPG in batch mode doesn't sound like a good plan. It has the G4 (or now G4+) features which are pretty amazing for multiple maps etc.

 

If I were choosing between the two then I would read both of these.
http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g4-engine-management-documentation/G4Install
http://www.megamanual.com/MSFAQ.htm

 

The next gen of Fred's stuff looks pretty good, I still have a spin 1 Puma which is......... well it fires up but I haven't populated it.

It's not too hard I guess on skill level, but you need time AND patience which are much rarer commodities nowadays :P

If I don't give mine away I'll finish it when I finish the electronics room/office.

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  • 3 weeks later...

After much cajoling I finally wired up a TPS on my track car.

 

My question is, what advantage does this even have on an early Link (G1 V5)? From my limited amount of pissing around so far all I can see is one additional option to run a combined TPS+MAP fuel/ignition table.

 

I was sort of hoping that adding one would help with acceleration enrichment, and/or smooth out the jerkiness when the throttle is opened suddenly :|

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it does nothing of any help unfortunately

 

you should be able to tune out  most of the jerkiness though.    just mess around with the enrich settings.  start with the numbers low and keep adding more till it drives better.   its only going to work properly if the rest of the tune is good though

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Ah, that's a shame.

 

Yeah I'll have another play round with the enrichment, it was good for a while then I blew a Rx-7 550cc injector and swapped to Evo 560cc ones instead, so now have to go through the process of rejigging it all.

 

Managed to get my other car working fine on its Link V5 with the enrichment and no TPS, but it still doesn't like quick throttle transitions at all.

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