kicker Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 question for you bike nerds. The rear carb drips (heavily) from the overflow when idling. If you rev it it stops then comes back after 15 secs for so. I take it the needle isnt shutting properly/early enough? I adjusted the float a little and I though it had fixed it but it was doing it again today. Should I just adjust it a bit more? Or shoudl I be stripping the valve down and making sure there is no shit in it. All the other carbs are sweet/dont drip out the overflow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Pull down the carbs and clean everythin, probably a blockage somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 yeh not keen/knew it would come to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Will be a tiny bit o shit in the float needle stopping it from sealing propper. Â Doesnt take much. Â Can vouch for grin inducingness of this wee whip. Â Â So sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldturkey Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Fuck yea sounds insane! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 when for a hoon on the motorway, runs well. Have had a vibration/noise which sounds liek its coming from the back for some time (did it beore I started the recent gbox swap tc) and thought it was the driveshaft so didnt bother looking into it as I ised a different one for the swap. However its still doing it. It comes and goes and you can hear it build up then dissipate. Cant really feel the virbation but it sounds like one. Rear wheel bearing(s) perhaps? Diff has had a oil change a few months ago. Whats the best way to check the bearings? I know the will have to be cut/smashed off so yeh, not yet keen to do them for the sake of doing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Throw the standard wheels on and see if it goes away - just want to eliminate that as a possible cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 ah yep good point. Also I pulled the rear housing off that other gbox today. Once i figure out how to get it back on properly (there is a cunty shifter tab thingy) I think ill clean it up and swap it with the one on the car to try stop te leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 To check bearings jack it up with the wheels on and once it's on axle stands and safe pull it out of gear. Then get someone to spin the wheel while you lie underneath with a power bar or something touching the diff housing (if you're doing the rear) up to your ear. If you do both sides you should be able to tell if one side has a fucked bearing, as it will sound rough while the other side should sound cleaner. May not work if the diff is crap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 ah interesting, will give that a whirl. cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 The vibration could be due to diff pinion angle. Have a read here. Â //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38050-pinion-angle/?hl=%2Bpinion+%2Bangle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 hmm yeh good point. It seems to have gotten worse over time since I first noticed it, rather then just suddenly happening when I lowerd the car/changed the angles. Will measure up and see what they are regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Good work Beave, Â Before you go pulling the carbs down try tapping on the offending carb body with a hammer, this is often enough to free the float needle and make it seal again. If that doesn't work though you will need to pull them apart for a clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Ive had the offending carb apart already (prior to posting on there), float appeared to be moving freely and I slightly adjusted the float level. Â Does that change your advice? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Tapping it with a hammer will only help if there is some shit stuck under the needle that stops it from sealing, it is an easy first port of call. Did you take the needle out and have a look? also check that there isn't a crack in the overflow, I have heard that being a problem sometimes and it takes ages to diagnose hahah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 The idle chuff sounds like it may be lean, wind a bit more on the idle mixture screws and see if it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullitt Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Saw this this morning. Â Being followed by an RX30 on Bunny street. Â Looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 The idle chuff sounds like it may be lean, wind a bit more on the idle mixture screws and see if it helps.chuff. That's the word I was looking for, perfectly describes it. Will try the mixture and see what happens. Cheers!had the float needle out and gave it a blow out tonight, all looked pretty good but Yeh, the float pivot axle was a bit gammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 EDIT: the factory fuel pump is 2.6psi so this should be fine (they rekon run bike carbs up to 3psi). Perhaps te needle valve isnt heafty enough to hold fuel back when the pump just keeps pushing.... They would have been gravity fed on the bike though wouldn't they? So there would be no real build up of pressure. I would think a reg with a return could be a good idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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