cletus Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Anyone used this stuff? was talking to an old bloke that swears by it, reckons its waterproof and doesnt even need a topcoat, can spray on bare steel. Also, whats a miracle product i can spray on the inside of a rusty panel that i cant get into to clean up, that will stop rust and make my vehicle last forever? PA10? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonK Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 I've only used durapox to paint a shop floor lol but I'd say it'd be sweet for floor pans etc. As for a miracle product I use Brunox, comes in a spray can or brush on, have never had any problem with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Is brunox anything like rustroy? (Which seems to be no longer available???) I know what you're saying Clint. My vals have had surface-ish rust in places that it's not possible to reach to clean up. (Short of unstitching the whole car, and remaking it from scratch) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Durepox is WICKED! Ive used 100s of Litres in my short time as etch primer. Its designed to go on bare metal. My friend has had it as his topcoat sitting outside since 2009 and still going strong. Came up fairly nice with a flat and buff too,haha. PA10 would work, as would Durepox or any of those rust proofing paints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickitsideways Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 My friend/flatmate works for Resene Automotive that supply the Durepox etc. Hes a Sales Rep in Auckland. Durepox is great for anything being an Epoxy - and solid as nails! He said he will do discounted deals for anyone on here if they are interested in buying some anywhere in NZ. You can PM me or call/txt Troy on 0274 518 885 or 021 577 469. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I used this on my scooter. Seemed very good and has proven to be tough. But I'm the opposite of a paint expert. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 anyone know what its like over other old paint?- enamels, acrylic, problems with fry ups etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 As far as I can see from the data sheet its just an exopy primer? nothing special. These days epoxy primer is the standard paint to chuck over bare metal to start your body work, paint job etc Epoxy is usually the reccomended sealer to go over old Acrylics and enamels, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS 2 THE DEEE Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I would stay well clear of PA10 it's pretty old technology and not a sealer Lechler do a whole range of etch, epoxy high builds that are tintable so especially good for when use low coverage topcoat colours.. I've used a lot of there product and found it be very solid an good price and like durapox are a sealer so can leave as a top coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I am all for epoxy primer being used to store parts etc but I wouldnt say use epoxy primer as a "top coat" as such especially exposed to the elements on a car. There are epoxy based top coat paints, but I dont think most epoxy primers are that UV stable? they deffinately discolour with UV exposure For things like floors, fender skirts, firewalls etc I use an epoxy primer that I can wet on wet the top coat, saves so much time. Prep the bare metal as per normal, hit it with two coats of epoxy primer, let it flash for 30min then hit it with a couple of coats of your 2 pac urethane top coat (usually a industrial satin black). If your primer gun lays down smooth coats your top coat will be perfect. Saves a whole step of sanding primer and masking which sucks in engine bays etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 For things like floors, fender skirts, firewalls etc I use an epoxy primer that I can wet on wet the top coat, saves so much time... No way!? I didn't know you could do that. So literally _no_ sanding the top coat of primer? Is it important to wet-on-wet, or can you let the top coat of primer dry first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 There is a window of time and it depends on the products used & tempreture. Its all down to the products used some will let you top coat it without sanding within 24 hours, some shorter or longer. The wet on wet stuff I use means the parts/car are only in the make shift booth/garrage for one sitting and they are done. It is a industrial paint system (the 2k top coat is cheap $120 for 4l of paint 2l of hardner) but it gives a excelent finish and is only used on parts where the block sanding stage to get things flat isn't needed. This is the same principal as a sealer epoxy that is put on before basecoat in some systems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Theres that car i mentioned earlier, looking all good! Was over Factory paint and filler in places Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Missed a bit on the bonnet Good info, just made a list of products from this thread so I know what to jam down inside of the doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 thanks guys. going to buy this tomorrow. Should do pretty much all the inside places with no primer and no top top. http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online- ... escription 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 I'm using durapox now. Its good stuff. You're supposed to overcoat it within a week though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Yea my epoxy is even worse, 72 hour window to coat it. I have no adhesion problems scuffing with 180 and priming, if you were worried scuff it and recoat with epoxy then wet coat your primer on top. Sprayed some HS 2k primer yesterday, think I need a bigger gun 1.8 tip wasnt getting the paint out as I would like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 NM its been covered 100 times. Edited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 First person in history to quote the famous lingling for something other than a pisstake? Anything paint wise from supercrap is likely to be.... super crap. Head over to the resene on terapa straight or linkup down by greenwood. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Enamel could be a bitch to strip off again. Sand the black coating off and spray some epoxy on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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